Maze 2012 - Canyonlands Utah

[Glenn-BJ74]

Here is our Maze 2012 trip report describing Greg's and Glenn's trip prior to Cruise Moab.

The Maze is a labyrinth of narrow canyons and standing rocks west of the confluence of the Colorado and Green Rivers. The area is the least accessible district of the Canyonlands National Park and due to its remoteness and poor roads. This area requires more travel time and self-sufficiency than the other districts in Canyonlands. The Hans Flats Ranger Station is located at the park boundary on the Orange Cliffs. The area below the Orange Cliffs has several names, including the Maze, Land of the Standing Rocks and Ernies Country.

Prior to 1950 only rough cattle trails existed below the Orange Cliffs. The uranium boom of the 1950’s led to the construction of many mining exploration roads most of which remain virtually unimproved since they were constructed. During this period there was a ferry operation between Anderson Bottom and White Rim road (east of the Green River), just south of the Millard Camp we stayed at. The Parks Service has preserved this area by restricting camping and hiking access and they area is much the same as it was when the Anasazi Indians left 700 years ago.

About 15 miles northwest of Hans Flats is Robbers Roost. Robbers' Roost was a stronghold of the Wild Bunch, Butch Cassidy's motley crew of bank robbers, desperados, train stickup men, and horse and cattle rustlers. Robbers Roost Canyon is a remote tributary of the Dirty Devil River, which flows into Lake Powell. The original Wild Bunch corral still stands in Robbers Roost.

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[Glenn-BJ74]

Blue John Canyon

[FONT=&quot]South of the Horseshoe Canyon Unit is where hiker Aaron Ralston rescued himself after being trapped for five days beneath an 800-pound boulder while exploring Blue John Canyon in 2003.
Blue John Canyon is a tributary south of Horseshoe Canyon. The self-recovery feat was described in the autobiography ‘Between a Rock and a Hard Place” and depicted in the 2010 movie ‘127 Hours’.[/FONT]

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

Day 1 Friday – Lost at Night

I caught the 7:00 am ferry from Victoria, got through the border and met Greg at the I5 Exit 200, at Wal-Mart north of Seattle. Although we wanted to visit the new Cabela’s, it had just opened – we gave it a pass. At Wal-Mart we loaded up on sandwich makings and scurried about buying last minute camping supplies. We got back on the Interstate drove through Seattle then east on I90 over the Cascade Mountains and through Yakima, across the Columbia River, and into northeastern Oregon.

The first night we planned to stay at Red Bridge State Camp Ground this side of LeGrande, OR. I stayed there last year and it was peaceful with lots of songbirds. We arrived late and found it closed!
We were tired from the first day of driving and were forced to keep looking and we eventually found a dirt road that spiraled up onto a high ridge and in the darkness we found a flat knoll big enough to park our rigs. We had no idea where we were, but neither cared and we quickly climbed into our sleeping bags – out like a light. [FONT=&quot]In the morning we awoke to sunshine and in the distance what appeared to browsing deer and in the valley below, dense fog where we had intended to stay. [/FONT]

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

Day 2 Saturday – Boise’s Cabelas

After enjoying coffee in the morning sun we packed up and drove down the mountain and through the fog below. We were on the I84 again heading to Boise with Greg’s anticipation building for his first Cabela’s visit! We got there about noon and it was hot. Greg went in and went about like a kid in a candy store. I cautioned Greg to be selective as a guy could spend a couple of days in there. I bought a few things and went back to my rig early and I noticed the smell of propane! I first thought my propane tank was leaking and had to get it replaced, but with the help of a passer-by I concluded the tank was venting in the hot sun. While I was waiting for Greg I thought I would check my solar panels since they were installed two weeks ago – 60 watts output!

After 2-hrs Greg emerged from Cabela’s loaded with bags and boxes and after stowing his booty we drove southeast bound for Willard Bay campground, just north of Salt Lake City. I had stayed at Willard Bay the last two years, because it was a ½ day drive to SE Utah. We arrived to a crowded and congested park with camp fires smoldering and with little choice of a site we accepted our plight. We paid $38.00 for our two vehicles. The next day Nick (the fellow from NY State we were planning to meet) told us he stayed at a motel in Green River for $35.00!

Utah like many other Western States has cut back on their park staff and increased camping and day use fees.

Next year I think I will skip this one!

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

Day 3 Sunday – Hans Flats to Big Spur

We left Willard Bay headed down I15 through the busy Salt Lake City corridor and stopped at the Wal-Mart at Spanish Forks to do our last food buy before going into the desert. With our ARB fridges full we turned onto Hwy 6 through the mountains headed for Green River. We were running late so Greg texted Nick earlier not to wait for us and to get our pre-arranged 6-day permit before the Ranger Station closed at 4:30. We arrived in Green River and it was nice and hot! After fuelling up I got a large Jamocha milkshake at Arby’s in the Conoco station, which is now a Green River tradition.

After months of planning we arrived at the Hans Flats Ranger Station and finally united with Nick and his 4runner. We are now three trucks, the maximum number of vehicles allowed under the National Parks’ permit. After quick introductions we headed 45 mins north to Big Spur Camp to camp the night. The plan was to stay at Big Spur and in the morning drive north 9 miles and hike down the less travelled south access to Horseshoe Canyon – but this was not to happen!.

Before we got far along on the trail, Nick’s rear brakes on his 4runner were acting up and he suspected a dragging rear caliper. This eventually boiled his brake fluid and affected his master cylinder. As soon as we hit camp Nick (‘the mechanical dynamo’) tore into the repair and once diagnosed – a plan was hatched that an emergency parts run had to be made and we would relocate north of Horseshoe Canyon and camp at a BLM site (no reservation needed), since our next reserved campsite was to the south in the Maze.

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

Big Spur

Big Spur is high up on the Orange Cliffs -

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

Day 4 Monday – Parts Run to Moab

Next day we left High Spur and went to Hans Flats emptied our gerry cans in our main tanks so they could be filled again. We drove the bumpy dusty trail to the BLM Horseshoe Canyon campsite dodging cattle along the way. I was to babysit the busted 4runner and Greg and Nick were to tear off in the diesel 80 for parts in Green River or Moab. Rather than take the highway, the Hans Flats Ranger suggested we take the dirt road due north (Lower San Rafael road) to Green River which proved to be faster than Hwy 24 the way we came in.

I spend an easy day lounging around camp as the temperature was pushing 90F and above during mid-day. I watched wave after wave of hot sweaty young hikers emerge from the canyon depths below and I asked about their hiking explorations below. Late in the afternoon the diesel 80 pulled into camp and Nick and Greg jumped out and started the repair while I took cooked dinner - hamburgers smothered in hot-melted Pepper Jack cheese. Following some added entertainment with the 4runner teetering off the High-Lift and Nick having to use his grinder to fit the new caliper - repairs were completed that night.

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

Day 5 Tuesday – Teapot Trouble

The next morning we ripped down the red dirt trail with dust clouds in pursuit passing the Hans Flats Ranger Station for the third time. We followed the Flint Trail along the top of the Orange Cliffs gazing off over the Maze often nearly driving off the dirt track.

We took the Flint Trail switchbacks down the Orange Cliffs and the south turn-off to the Land of the Standing Rocks turn-off. At the Hite Marina turn off to the south, we stopped and talked to two guys, one was mountain biking the other following in a pick-up. One was an ex-fireman, so Greg had a compatriot to chat with. Both were interested in my solar panels powering my fridge, as both were avid desert cold beer guzzlers.

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

Day 5 Tuesday – Teapot Trouble

After that chin-wag we were off to tackle the roughest trail– a short section between Teapot and the Wall. We were into the trail about 20 minutes, and Nick’s 4runner broke an ‘unbreakable’ Longfield birf. I was beyond CB range so I backtracked– to hear the bad news. My guess was rather than slipping on the high traction rock - the big Swampers provided too much traction and broke the right birf.
With ‘heads down and asses up’ we heard some noises and we poked our heads up to see a stock Tacoma creeping along the trail behind us. We chatted with them - the walk-along ‘spotter’ and ‘rock stacker’ and the driver. We gave them words of encouragement and said they were doing an outstanding job. The stock Tacoma passed by us, which added to our awkwardness, but everyone had a good natured laugh about the situation. The Tacoma was too preoccupied with avoiding body damage than to worry about our predicament. We latter found out they were from Tahoe City not far from the Rubithon Trailhead.

I had a spare 70 series birf, which we thought might fit the old style 4runner, but after unsuccessfully trying to fit the axle we concluded the axle shaft was too long. We then split the axle from the birf and used the shorter axle from the broken truck. Well that did not work either which led us to the sad conclusion this was unfixable. We then were forced to escort Nick and his 4runner back to Teapot, and from there he could get back to Moab where his trailer and Tundra were parked. In Moab he could fix the birf and wheel the Moab trails and be closer to his trailer which is stocked with parts.

This was a big disappointment for all of us!

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

Day 5 Tuesday – Teapot Trouble

After saying our goodbyes -- Greg and I continued along the trail and passed the turtling Tacoma making its way along the rough trail. Latter on at the Wall campsite we met a nicely dressed outdoorsy couple from Colorado –so we stopped and chatted. It was getting late, we were eager to get to our camp so we tore up the trail past Standing Rock, Chimney Rock then south to the Dollhouse camp #3 were we had a 1-night reservation.

What an unbelievable spot! We set up camp made some dinner and stood there mesmerized by the beauty of this place.

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

Day 6 Wednesday – Spanish Bottom

We got up that next morning and concluded we wanted to risk staying another night even though our permit allowed only 1-night. We knew the Tacoma had 3-nights booked here so we had a chance to sweet-talk them in allowing us to stay another night (technically permissible under their permit). So with that decision made we decided to hike down to Spanish Bottom and get close to the Colorado River. We each loaded 3 litres of water into our camel backs and put them into our daypacks, with some food, and sunscreen. Off we went along the sandy wash back toward the other Dollhouse campsites and over to the edge and 1,300 feet down the switch backs.

Eventually we made it to Spanish Bottom but at the south end the river access was poor so we decided to hike to the northern end which from afar looked more interesting. Along the way we passed deer poking their heads above the tall grass. At the northern end of Spanish Bottom there was a perfect campsite under a 7’ protective thicket roof offering filtered sunlight over a large sandy area. What a perfect place for one-nighter from the Dollhouse. A little further down we found a nice sand bar. With little encouragement we went for a swim in the cooling Colorado River in the heat of the day. What a treat!
We then went back to the bottom of the cliff and looked up and thought to ourselves silently – holy sh*t we got to hike up that! We plodded slowly up the steep switchbacks and at the top we took a breather, and then decided to check out the Granary Trail. That was a good call as the trail led to fantastic views of Surprise Canyon and the trail winds through some narrow slots, where I had to remove my pack to clamber up through the tightest one.
With tired legs and out of water we headed back to camp.

Within sight of our camp we spotted the blue Tacoma surrounded by well used camping tables, chairs and huge propane cooker – but no one around. To our utter amazement the Tacoma had arrived -- with no dents! Within a short time the two Californians sauntered back with their packs slung on their backs and we introduced ourselves once again and asked if we stay the night with them – no problem.

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

Day 6 Wednesday – Spanish Bottom

More pictures

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

Spanish Bottom

more on Spanish Bottom

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

Dollhouse

Grainary trail and the Colorado River

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

Dollhouse

more Grainary trail

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

Dollhouse

more pictures from Dollhouse #3

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

Grainary Trail

slots on the Grainary Trail

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

Land of the Standing Rocks

on the trail to Dollhouse

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

Burning Man

After dinner the Tacoma guys told us of their wild exploits at the Burning Man in the Nevada desert, and we listened with fascination under their Christmas lights powered by AA batteries. We had a great night staring at the bright stars.

Before hitting the sack we decided to make the run up to the northernmost campsite at Millard Canyon where we had the next night’s reservation. That was going to be a long haul and it turned out to be a good decision.

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

Day 7 Thursday –Millard Camp

We packed our rigs and headed north taking pictures of many of the landmarks we had driven by in our haste to get to the campsite. We stopped by the Wall and spoke again to Bill and his wife from Colorado. They told of us some nearby arches that were not on the Parks maps (perhaps he speculated to keep people out). Although Bill said he had been coming into the Maze for many years he had not visited Millard Canyon and asked if I could send him a report. I did so upon my return and he told me on trip out he broke his front axle on his Tundra pulling his trailer. He had to get someone with a cutting torch to cut the axle so he could get out in 2-wheel drive.

We headed back to the junction and took the north road past the Maze Overlook and onto Millard Canyon. Although the trail is long it is not difficult with lots of off-camber sandy bits and maybe 2 steep rocky climbs. The trail makes a long loop around Dead Horse Canyon on its way to Millard Canyon, which makes for a long haul. On the way I was hoping to see the Anderson Bottom Trailhead, but I must have missed it.

At one point we were followed by a powerful tailwind, which created a blinding storm forcing us to stop since visibility was zero.