Body Lift On A BJ74 (1 Viewer)

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Dec 4, 2007
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Benders
Hello All,

Last weekend I (with the help of a good mate) rebuilt the front end of the Cruiser. I Replaced axle and wiper seals along with drag and tie rod ends. Big job, took two days cause it was the first time, but very rewarding and I know its done right. Whoever did it last time got the wiper seals around the wrong way. The whole thing was a bit of a mess really but its all good now.

I also put on 2" spacers cause the wheels and tires were chewing the boots on the tire rod ends. Now that the spacers are on I have a rubbing issue at the rear of the front guards although this only happens when the steering is on full lock (tight turning circle). I am now thinking I should do a mild body lift. I am thinking a 1" lift to clear the guards. Has anyone had issues after installing spacers?

So my question is: With a 1" lift what modifications do i have to do to the steering, radiator, fuel tank filler hose and brake and clutch lines?

I have heard that a 1" lift does not require much mods. Is this true?

I have read up on how to do a Jeep and an 80's series lift and it seems stright forward but does a 74 require any special mods on the 1" lift?

Sorry for all the questions but I just wanna get this sorted with limited stuffing around.

Cheers:beer:
Gav.
 
Maybe an easier solution is to move the diff forward 1inch. I moved mine forward for free and it would take less than half the time of a body lift. Also less COG issues.

But about the 1inch lift i have been researching this quite a lot lately and it seems 1inch you can get away with minimal mods. You will just have to make a bracket for the fan shroud. Here is some information on what to look out for for a 2inch body lift.

1) your speedo cable to your gearbox, it can get pulled out at the gearbox end if its to tight, normally there is a couple of tie points for it on the underside of the body just take the closest one to the gearbox out.

2)Your fuel refill hose it may need to be made longer.(cut it in half and add a piece of steel pipe to lengthen it) I didnt have to

3) Keep an eye on wiring for engine and lights that you dont pull on them

4) If your radiator is attached to your body then remove your radiator shroud first or you can damage it because your engine fan will hit it

5)Your dust seals on your transfer case lever, you may need to pull it off and trim some of the rubber off. (i had to coz it kept slipping out of low range)

6) Your steering shaft slide will move out, just keep an eye on it so it doesnt reach maximum and break

I went a 2 inch body lift, 35's dont rub at all on flex. Loosen all of the bolts and then remove all the bolts from one side of the car. Then jack up the sidestep, on these model cruisers the sidesteps are attached to the body, jack up the sidestep/body slowly keep an eye on the points above, slip the lift blocks in and put the bolts in and then repeat the process on the other side. Took me a few hours. The only thing i had trouble with was the radiator fan shroud, remove it before you start coz the radiator is attached to the bodyor it will jam oth the engine fan, secondly the transfer case rubber boot kept pushing it out of low range so i just took the boot of and cut away some of the rubber and that fixed it.
 

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