FJ62 Engine Replacement - Engine only

[Mikesta]

For those of you that have done this.... Any tips/tricks. I've searched quite a bit but cannot find what I'm looking for specifically.

Would you recommend just pulling everything out, remating and putting everything back in?

 

[D'Animal]

It looks like you just have to unbolt the frame and your are done. LOL

When I do it there are several variables.
1st Do I know the actual condition of the engine going in?
Low Mileage, no oil in the anti freeze, no antifreez in the oil, etc.

2nd Why am I pulling the old engine?
High miles, no power, rod through the block, etc.


If both engines are equal, I would pull and swap the assembly.

If my engine was in better shape, other than the hole in the side of the block, I would strip both engines down to the long block and then swap the engines. I have used a 3FE Top End Gasket set purchased from Cruiser Dan. I would then inspect and build the engine back up with the new block in place.

My thinkning is if you know you are going to have to strip the front of the engine to replace the AC belt and install a new waterpump so why not take a few more things off and repalce all of the gaskets?

Just my thoughts.

 

[Mikesta]

Thanks for the response D'Animal.

Current rig 1989 FJ62 - Hole in Block - Good tranny/t-case
Engine Pictured - New Engine Dealer replaced 40,000 miles ago. Newly acquired. This has a bad transmission.

Everything on the Engine pictured is there. Here is my thinking, take old engine out/Put this engine in. Plug in and go. I trust the guy I got this from, he heard it run and was going to plug it into one of his rigs, but changed direction.

Here is a picture of the 62 that needs it.

I'm just asking what would be easier. Just unbolting the engine and pulling it out, putting new engine in ....or..... Pulling the Engine/tranny/tcase out, swapping that tranny/tcase and putting the whole Engine/Tranny/Tcase back in.

Thanks!

 

[zebrabeefj40]

By the sound of things I would just unbolt the blowed up motor from the transmission and bolt the doner back up to it. Plug in and go. Stuff the blowed up motor in the corner for a parts doner. Sell the bad trans to someone as a core. Sell the t-case as good used or stash for a spare. Then enjoy driving your repowered FJ62.

To do much more turns this into a "while I'm here - might as well rebuilt the motor into a 2FE" - which you could do once the busted motor is out. It WOULD make a good parts doner for a 2FE.


Nick

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

being an auto, just the motor. and don't forget the oil galley plug on the head

 

[D'Animal]

That is exactly what I would do in this situation.

By the sound of things I would just unbolt the blowed up motor from the transmission and bolt the doner back up to it. Plug in and go. Nick

 

[Mikesta]

Thanks guys, I spoze I need a Tranny jack to align the engine to tranny when I slap the new one back in. I'll document the process here so people in the future that search this might find it. Wish me luck.

 

[Tools R Us]

... Current rig 1989 FJ62 - Hole in Block - Good tranny/t-case

... Engine Pictured - New Engine Dealer replaced 40,000 miles ago. ...

What year is the new engine?

... Plug in and go. ...

That will depend on the answer to above. If the new motor is a 1988, the wire harness, sensors, etc, differ, so parts will need to be swapped.

 

[Mikesta]

What year is the new engine?



That will depend on the answer to above. If the new motor is a 1988, the wire harness, sensors, etc, differ, so parts will need to be swapped.

I think i'm pretty lucky. It is an 89 engine and going into an 89 rig. I'll take notes though as I tear the current engine out. Just in case. Thanks for the heads up!

 

[Tools R Us]

I think i'm pretty lucky. It is an 89 engine and going into an 89 rig. I'll take notes though as I tear the current engine out. Just in case. Thanks for the heads up!

That would be ideal. To confirm, check the connectors on the sensors at the thermostat housing, they should be the same. The ones on the '88 are square with wire clips, on the '89, are more rounded with the clips molded in.

If they are the same and the new motor has the full EFI harness to the ECM. The easiest is to unplug from the ECM, relays, etc, on the body side and swap harnesses with the motors.

 

[Mikesta]

Thanks so much tools, I'm hoping I can Knock this task out in a day. Here is to wishing. I'm open to any advice as I've never done it before. My only hang up now is this. Do I need a tranny jack to help massage the new engine into place?

That would be ideal. To confirm, check the connectors on the sensors at the thermostat housing, they should be the same. The ones on the '88 are square with wire clips, on the '89, are more rounded with the clips molded in.

If they are the same and the new motor has the full EFI harness to the ECM. The easiest is to unplug from the ECM, relays, etc, on the body side and swap harnesses with the motors.

 

[Wile E Coyote]

With just an engine swap I've not bothered with a trans jack. A bottle jack and a block of wood did just fine.

 

[Mikesta]

Ok, finally ready to yank this succer out, but the top Tranny/engine bolts are almost impossible to get to. What did ya'll do to get these out? Do I need to pull the interior back and get to the tranny tunnel?

Here are some pictures of the progress.

 

[Mikesta]

here is another shot of the bolts I need to get too... on the engine outside the truck that is ready to go in.

 

[Smplybttr]

I haven't swapped an engine but I did swap my A440F and we just put a floor jack under it, removed the cross member and dropped the jack about two inches. The upper bolts were pretty easy then.

 

[Smplybttr]

I'm on my phone, so it's hard to tell from the pic but are you asking about the torque converter to flywheel bolts? If so, there is a cover on the bottom DS of the engine that comes off and you can pull the bolts with an offset wrench.

 

[Mikesta]

I haven't swapped an engine but I did swap my A440F and we just put a floor jack under it, removed the cross member and dropped the jack about two inches. The upper bolts were pretty easy then.

That did the trick, you could do it but it would take a long time with a wrench to get the drivers side upper bolt out. I lowered it per your suggestion and was able to access it. Thanks!

I'm on my phone, so it's hard to tell from the pic but are you asking about the torque converter to flywheel bolts? If so, there is a cover on the bottom DS of the engine that comes off and you can pull the bolts with an offset wrench.

No Just the top bolts that keep the engine and tranny glued together.... Thanks!

I was able to get the engine out. I had forgotten to disconnect the fuel hose, but that was it... not bad considering all the stuff that needs to get detached.

After getting it out, realized that the engine bay was 300,000 miles dirty. Not a lot of grease on the frame and the frame is beautiful as well as the body as there is very very little rust....

I'm thinking about keeping this rig so I started cleaning it up a little. I'll go through the 40,000 mile engine and clean that up before putting it back again. It will look clean in the bay when done

 

[Mikesta]

And the reason for the swap

Engine was 27X,xxx miles old (I think)... had oil when I drained it, I don't know why it threw a rod? But here are the pictures. I'll either sell all the stuff on this engine to help pay for the truck and engine or keep it for a 2FE/5speed/FJ62TCASE setup I want to build.

Anyways, here are the pictures.

 

[Smplybttr]

That did the trick, you could do it but it would take a long time with a wrench to get the drivers side upper bolt out. I lowered it per your suggestion and was able to access it. Thanks!




I'm glad it worked out. It looks like you've got your hands full. Good luck!

 

[Mikesta]

Got the engine bay cleaned up and threw the engine in there last night. Started to connect the wires.