Sound Deadening Doors - Best Way

[Dpcruiser]

Getting ready to sound deaden the 62 as it is getting a 1 HZ. Thinking about 2 ways to do it:

1. Put on metal on interior of doors. Cut out holes for access points. This would leave a lot of opening in the sound deadening, which worries me.

2. Put on back of door panels (on the thick cardboard-like material). This would leave more area coverage but maybe the sound gets around the corners?

Anyone done this and had good luck?

Cheers,

Sean

 

[LegShot]

I used dynamat on mine and it really helped. There are other less expensive materials that work well too.

 

[Dpcruiser]

Hey Legshot,

I am using the stuff from CruiserCrap.

Did you put Dynamat on the metal shell of the door or on the interior panel?

S

 

[Skniper]

You should put some on the outside shell of the door, behind the glass, thats where most of the outside noise comes from.
Then I think you are better off sandwiching some type of thin foam layer in between the interior panel and door frame...as long as the interior panel can snap down properly.
The two types of insulation working in tandem should really seal up a door.

 

[87CRUSR]

I am using Crusercr*p on the metal part of door. I used smaller strips for ease of application and to maximize coverage.

 

[Dpcruiser]

Thanks guys,

Both good ideas. Think I will try to get a couple of big pieces on the outside of the door, behind the glass. I'll see if I can find a 1/4 foam for between the door and the interior panel.

Cheers,

s

 

[CanCrusher]

Getting ready to sound deaden the 62 as it is getting a 1 HZ. Thinking about 2 ways to do it:

1. Put on metal on interior of doors. Cut out holes for access points. This would leave a lot of opening in the sound deadening, which worries me.

2. Put on back of door panels (on the thick cardboard-like material). This would leave more area coverage but maybe the sound gets around the corners?

Anyone done this and had good luck?

Cheers,

Sean

I watched a documentary on the construction of an Aston Martin car and they used a material that looked like DynaMat on the inside of the door skins. It wasn't even close to 100% coverage, they had pieces about 10" x 5" shaped sort of like a dumbell with a thickened "handle" area placed in a couple of spots inside the door. Specifically designed for the shape/flex of that particular panel (?) I do not know. I have done all of my floor areas in my 60 series and have material left over. Intent is to experiment with a similar sort of shape but I have to wait for a time when the truck is inside and thawed out or do it in the Spring (which, at this time of year, seems like an unreasonable wait).

My one concern is that the material adhered to the inside of the door skin might be a starting point for rust.

That brings me to a somewhat related comment about doors in 60 series Cruisers. It is my firm belief that the poly under the door panels offers a "vapour barrier" similar to that in a heated and insulated living space. All too often when a door panel is removed for any type of service or inspection the poly is not re-applied properly, or is perhaps torn or cut for access. This allows warmer, moist air to enter the door area and condense on the cold door skin. Voila, rust from the inside out on the door seams and bottom area of the doors. I personally use "Tuck" tape to seal the outside edges of the poly to the door frame before replacing door panels.

Any comments on this thought would be appreciated.

 

[MANUCHAO]

I used eDead.
I did all the surface skin or as much as I could get to on the door skin behind the glass and since I had too much of this stuff I also put it/used it where the vapor barrier used to be (between the door and the panel). I used duct tape to seal it all off....

 

[Dpcruiser]

Can Crusher,

I don't think your theory is off at all. It is important to keep those doors sealed for just the reason you stated. When I do the sound proofing, I am going to make a new moisture barrier for my doors. Thanks for that reminder.

I do use Fluid Film yearly on my truck and in fact do the inside of the doors. No rust so far, I think it works but I am in NYC, so always worried about rust on my originally west coast truck.

Sean

 

[jgordon]

Where in NYC are you? I'm in manhattan.

Either way would work, but I'd agree that the door skin is where you want to focus. The idea of sound deadening is not full coverage or a sonic barrier, but to apply mass to the structure itself. And the mass you're adding is non-resonant, meaning it will absorb vibration and act as a sink for vibration travelling through the structure. If you have enough material, no reason you couldn't do both. Just watch out for moving mechanisms.

What you could do if you're up for it is do one door on the door skin, one on the inner structure and give each a few knocks with a rubber mallet. use a stethoscope or a piece of hose and see which one rings louder. Then finish the job up.

 

[Dpcruiser]

JGordon,

Red Hook, BK! Our little neighborhood has about 6-7 Fj60-62's. What part of Manhattan?

You are right, it is more about than mass than a "seal" or complete coverage. I will give both a try on one door and see what happens. Will let you know when I do.

Cheers,

Sean

 

[jzilla]

Thanks for this tip on the importance of the moisture barrier. I will have to get some plastic sheet from the hardware store before I put the panels back on.

 

[jgordon]

I'm on the ues. There are a few cruisers around here as well, from a tatted out sand 62 to an expedition-ready strong blue 60.

We should organize a get-together some time.

Good luck with the sound deadening. I tore out my interior and lined the entire truck, but I never did the doors. Still on the list. I used damplifier pro, and it worked wonders.

 

[LegShot]

I put it on the metal portion of the door and cut around all the holes.

 

[lovetoski]

I put it on both. On the outside I removed the glass, to provide more room. (I replaced the glass run at the same time.) You don't need to cover 100% of the outside skin, but I did maybe 60%. On the inside I did 100%, less the holes. I've also done the floor, two layers on the tranny hump, the firewall and replaced the door seals. Truck is pretty quiet now. You can talk normally when driving the freeway at 55-60 mph (w/mud tires). Road noise used to wear me out on a long trip, now it's no biggie.

 

[Big Cruiser Guy]

Have any of you tried the spry-on type of sound/heat insulation (Lizard Skin)?