Before I call my tranny toast, I want to do a passive flush. I'm pretty sure I understand how to do it, but have a few questions. Do I pull the pan and clean the screen first and then do the flush? If so, do I have to pull the pan again and clean the screen again after the flush? maybe someone could please go thru all the steps for the rodney flush so this idiot doesnt screw it up!!! Any help would be great. btw, any other 62's up here in mich. seems I got the only one! Thanks
help with tranny flush please!!!
- Thread starter groove62
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I would never flush a 62 tranny.
Buy a new screen
There should be no reason to buy a new screen.
When I had the auto-tranny, I just removed the screen and sprayed it clean w/ B12 Chem Tool and put it back up.
That screen was built to last. You should be able to use a spray cleaner and just remount the screen.
When I had the auto-tranny, I just removed the screen and sprayed it clean w/ B12 Chem Tool and put it back up.
That screen was built to last. You should be able to use a spray cleaner and just remount the screen.
why not use it? You get one in the kit.
Here are the instructions from Rodney on how to perform the flush.
Hi Mitch and all other 3FE Groupies, Rodney here
This message was directed at Mitch because he asked me for my 2 cents worth.
Here is a full set of instructions to do an Automatic Transmission full flush and oil flow test all at the same time. I have done it different ways but the best way I have set out below:
*Remove the front drive shaft. *Undo the rear cooler line from the rear transmission union. *Slid a rubber hose over the cooler line and direct it into a bucket. *Either drain the transmission using the drain plug or service the transmission. *Refill the transmission with 1 and a half gallons of transmission oil (Synthetic Recommended). *Start the car in park and hold it at 2000Rpm for 60 seconds and turn off. *Measure the oil in the bucket to find out transmission flow. *Add another gallon into transmission. (Engine Off) *Restart car and let it just idle until the oil changes colour to a nice clean oil, you will need to ad some oil as you are doing this to keep it flowing. Then shut engine off. *Refit rear cooler line. *Refit front shaft. *Restart car and top up the transmission to correct level.
PRESTO! The easy way by far. Full flush and flow test all in one! Because the very end of the cooler line bend directly down this make everything so easy and removing the drive shaft just make it hassle free. Off to work CYA! Rodney
Hi Mitch and all other 3FE Groupies, Rodney here
This message was directed at Mitch because he asked me for my 2 cents worth.Here is a full set of instructions to do an Automatic Transmission full flush and oil flow test all at the same time. I have done it different ways but the best way I have set out below:
*Remove the front drive shaft. *Undo the rear cooler line from the rear transmission union. *Slid a rubber hose over the cooler line and direct it into a bucket. *Either drain the transmission using the drain plug or service the transmission. *Refill the transmission with 1 and a half gallons of transmission oil (Synthetic Recommended). *Start the car in park and hold it at 2000Rpm for 60 seconds and turn off. *Measure the oil in the bucket to find out transmission flow. *Add another gallon into transmission. (Engine Off) *Restart car and let it just idle until the oil changes colour to a nice clean oil, you will need to ad some oil as you are doing this to keep it flowing. Then shut engine off. *Refit rear cooler line. *Refit front shaft. *Restart car and top up the transmission to correct level.
PRESTO! The easy way by far. Full flush and flow test all in one! Because the very end of the cooler line bend directly down this make everything so easy and removing the drive shaft just make it hassle free. Off to work CYA! Rodney
You can also disconnect the line at the cooler (IIRC I disconnected the return? line on the passenger's side). I found this to be easier than monkeying around back at the tranny.
I'll give another vote for cleaning the screen that is in the tranny, I never bothered to install the new one I bought, just the gasket.
You might want to have a look at this thread too. https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=145012
All I will say is that I did the governor flush right before I did a Rodney flush, and my truck is still running strong.
Curt.
I'll give another vote for cleaning the screen that is in the tranny, I never bothered to install the new one I bought, just the gasket.
You might want to have a look at this thread too. https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=145012
All I will say is that I did the governor flush right before I did a Rodney flush, and my truck is still running strong.
Curt.
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How about northern Indiana?? I'm 25 miles from Mich. Where are you in Mich.?
Keep in mind that there is a gasket under the screen. Napa sells the screen and gasket, fits perfectly.
driceshaft
No need to remove the driveshaft either. I do the flush when I change ATF. NEver had to mess with driveshafts. Stubby wrenches help get to the tight spaces. Besure to stabalize the hardlines so you don't bend or twist them.
This saved my tranny and wallet 2 years ago.
No need to remove the driveshaft either. I do the flush when I change ATF. NEver had to mess with driveshafts. Stubby wrenches help get to the tight spaces. Besure to stabalize the hardlines so you don't bend or twist them.
This saved my tranny and wallet 2 years ago.
- Thread starter
- #11
thanks for the tranny help!!!
thanks guys. my filters will be here tommorow so i guess igot some work to do. I hope it helps for the cost of all the tranny fluid. small price to pay if it works though. hey gappy i'm from midland, mi.
thanks guys. my filters will be here tommorow so i guess igot some work to do. I hope it helps for the cost of all the tranny fluid. small price to pay if it works though. hey gappy i'm from midland, mi.
I have always been told that a auto trany flush is one of the worst things you can do. logic is that as the transmission ages deposits settle into low pressure and flow areas and the flush can dislodge those deposits causing potential clogs in the valve body which can in turn lead to pressure problems, slippage, overheating, and trany death. I know people do it all the time as has been referenced heavily here, but, i have been told a good filter and fluid change and band adjustment if applicable is all that is necessary. if your auto tranny needs something more i.e. it is slipping, overheating and burnt fluid, metal shavings in the fluid and filter it is generally a sign of eventual failure and an indicator that a rebuilt or replace is in the future. just my .02
good luck
good luck
