PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Well that sounds pretty darn cool. Do you mind me asking how much coin that gear set runs?
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- Thread starter J Mack
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Well that sounds pretty darn cool. Do you mind me asking how much coin that gear set runs?
- Thread starter
- #42
Kurt at http://cruiseroutfitters.com/ ,hooked me up with a great deal but I'm still just south of 2K.
This is the kit: http://www.marks4wd.com/overdrive-gears/toyota/mfk1190tr.html
- Thread starter
- #44
I'm not sure, I'm still waiting for it to show up.
Re-read, so betting all is correct if Kurt and Eric were involved.
I have no experience in this matter, all hearsay.
There were 34mm idlers in the early cases and 38mm in the late. It's been said the 34mm is a weaker case, but i disregarded on mine since it's behind the a 2F rendition.
Do you think the added torque of the engine and/or gear set would be an issue?
Probably only during hardcore wheeling, anyway, but curious since running the early case, myself.
Also, did I miss an axle swap?
How are you addressing the parking brake?
I have no experience in this matter, all hearsay.
There were 34mm idlers in the early cases and 38mm in the late. It's been said the 34mm is a weaker case, but i disregarded on mine since it's behind the a 2F rendition.
Do you think the added torque of the engine and/or gear set would be an issue?
Probably only during hardcore wheeling, anyway, but curious since running the early case, myself.
Also, did I miss an axle swap?
How are you addressing the parking brake?
- Thread starter
- #46
We took our best guess, I ordered the gears for my first case and for reasons beyond our control it was discovered I needed another case after the fact, so Eric tracked down a second T-case and we are keeping our fingers crossed it will all work out in the end. If not I’ll track down a third T-case or second set of gears.
From what I understand the 34 vs 38 shaft is somewhat over played and with all new aftermarket shafts, gears and bearings I would guess that if I brake the 34mm idler shaft I’m in deep trouble with some of my other components.
I rebuilt my factory axles when I added the OME springs and I plan on rolling the 4:10’s with the .75 5th gear of NV4500, the .92 over drive high gear in the T-case and 33” tires I’ll be at 1800 RPM cruising 65 MPH and still have a decent low range.
The parking brake is a really good question, different day different way with me when it comes to the E-brake. One day I’m going to build a bitchin hydraulic disk for the rear of the T-case and the next I’m converting to rear drums to disc and retrofitting a lever under the dash.
From what I understand the 34 vs 38 shaft is somewhat over played and with all new aftermarket shafts, gears and bearings I would guess that if I brake the 34mm idler shaft I’m in deep trouble with some of my other components.
I rebuilt my factory axles when I added the OME springs and I plan on rolling the 4:10’s with the .75 5th gear of NV4500, the .92 over drive high gear in the T-case and 33” tires I’ll be at 1800 RPM cruising 65 MPH and still have a decent low range.
The parking brake is a really good question, different day different way with me when it comes to the E-brake. One day I’m going to build a bitchin hydraulic disk for the rear of the T-case and the next I’m converting to rear drums to disc and retrofitting a lever under the dash.
J Mack,
I was thinking ahead alittle on your wagon build and thought you might be going spring over on your axles, because of the 4BT or do you have a secret plan?
On a side note, I got the Old Air Hurricane, yesterday and man is it tight under the dash, height and depth wise. I thought I did the pre purchase measuring correct, but you know how that goes. Should work, but I have to rework the bottom center dash.
I really like the one you're going with, but it is alittle too long for me. I've got the motor's computer going inside and was planning to put it against the firewall, in that area, if that makes any sense.
Look forward to see what you do with that beautiful cummins.
I was thinking ahead alittle on your wagon build and thought you might be going spring over on your axles, because of the 4BT or do you have a secret plan?
On a side note, I got the Old Air Hurricane, yesterday and man is it tight under the dash, height and depth wise. I thought I did the pre purchase measuring correct, but you know how that goes. Should work, but I have to rework the bottom center dash.
I really like the one you're going with, but it is alittle too long for me. I've got the motor's computer going inside and was planning to put it against the firewall, in that area, if that makes any sense.
Look forward to see what you do with that beautiful cummins.
- Thread starter
- #48
ScrapDaddy,
I thought the same thing when I measured for the OldAir unit, if I remember correctly they were 11.5”high plus the vent tube stuck up past that. Please take pictures when you get to the mounting stage. I’d like to see what you come up with.
I like the look of the 2” to 3” lift and 33” so I’m committed to make it work. It was tough to resist the rock crawler 40”tires on wide 60’s with tube everything and put the LS1 I have in the corner under the hood but at the end of the day this rig will be more drivable.
I thought the same thing when I measured for the OldAir unit, if I remember correctly they were 11.5”high plus the vent tube stuck up past that. Please take pictures when you get to the mounting stage. I’d like to see what you come up with.
I like the look of the 2” to 3” lift and 33” so I’m committed to make it work. It was tough to resist the rock crawler 40”tires on wide 60’s with tube everything and put the LS1 I have in the corner under the hood but at the end of the day this rig will be more drivable.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Thanks for the link. Good to see he has a kit for the 38mm t-case, as I have one waiting for an H55F transmixer.
Between the cost of an H55 and the gears, a person could spend real $ on gears before we even get to the diffs!
- Thread starter
- #50
I did the math both ways and was going to go with new 3.70 Ratio - Nitro Gear rear end gears and save a few hundred bucks but after waiting for three months for them to make the gears I decided the price difference wasn’t worth the headache of tearing the diffs out.
The transfer case over drive gears will net about the same final drive gear with the 4:10’s as the 3:70’s would have given me but low gear final drive ratio will drop from 4.41 to a much better crawl ratio of to 8.43 with the new Marks 4WD T-case gears.
The transfer case over drive gears will net about the same final drive gear with the 4:10’s as the 3:70’s would have given me but low gear final drive ratio will drop from 4.41 to a much better crawl ratio of to 8.43 with the new Marks 4WD T-case gears.
What kind of lockers?
Might want to talk to Fireman about his 4bt 55, I think he might have some very good feedback for you.
arcteryx
Supporting Vendor
The case is from an 84.
- Thread starter
- #54
Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #55
I was able to machine the rocker arm pedestals torque the head and set pump timing yesterday.
Hoping to button it up today.
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Hoping to button it up today.
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Really nice! Keep it going.
Very nice. What turbo are you running? I've been really happy with the HX30W on my 4BT80. Spools up fast.
- Thread starter
- #58
Thanks, Dave.
It’s a Borg Warner EFR6258, I was reading on 4BT swap that it would be a good match for the 4BT so I thought I would give it a try.
I still have the HX30W that came on the motor that I’ll sell once I get this one running.
It’s a Borg Warner EFR6258, I was reading on 4BT swap that it would be a good match for the 4BT so I thought I would give it a try.
I still have the HX30W that came on the motor that I’ll sell once I get this one running.
TuffMudder
Still working on my FJ55!
J mack, I'm doing a 4bt swap as well and all of my reading suggested that you needed the clearance afforded by the soa to fit the 4bt. Diesel cruiser head had a very good write up but i'm on my phone so I'll have to find it and link it later. Your lift may be enough, just wanted to throw that out there as food for thought to perhaps keep you from having to rework your suspension
Scrapdaddy, I'm interest in pics on your AC install as well and to here what you have to do to get everything mounted
Do either of you know whic if the the two AC units in question is smaller?
Sent from my iPhone
Scrapdaddy, I'm interest in pics on your AC install as well and to here what you have to do to get everything mounted
Do either of you know whic if the the two AC units in question is smaller?
Sent from my iPhone
- Thread starter
- #60
Thank you Tuffmudder,
I have read conflicting reports on the lift, some say 3” is enough and others say you need SOA to fit.
I can’t comment as I’m not there yet but from my measurements it should fit in place of the SBC that’s in there now and might need an oil pan notch to give extra drive shaft clearance if anything.
If I guessed wrong I will just build a new oil pan.
The old air unit measures 8.5” wide X 11.5 long X 11” tall and has fittings that go beyond these measurements.
The Retomod unit measures 7” wide X 20 long X 9.5” tall and does not have fittings that go beyond these measurements.
The Restomod unit is closest to the factory heater size.
I'm looking forward to seeing your 4BT project.
I have read conflicting reports on the lift, some say 3” is enough and others say you need SOA to fit.
I can’t comment as I’m not there yet but from my measurements it should fit in place of the SBC that’s in there now and might need an oil pan notch to give extra drive shaft clearance if anything.
If I guessed wrong I will just build a new oil pan.
The old air unit measures 8.5” wide X 11.5 long X 11” tall and has fittings that go beyond these measurements.
The Retomod unit measures 7” wide X 20 long X 9.5” tall and does not have fittings that go beyond these measurements.
The Restomod unit is closest to the factory heater size.
I'm looking forward to seeing your 4BT project.
