Joining the Pig Pen! (1 Viewer)

[DoubleNickels]

Thanks everyone. I've got too many variables in the mix right now. My distributor body (the inside) looks pretty corroded. I have another big-cap distributor I'll swap in to try. I'm also back to a no-spark situation. Realizing I'm pulling too many levers at once (figuratively speaking) I need to focus on a logical troubleshooting approach.

I'm just so friggin' antsy and excited to get this running that it's hard to be logical in my approach. I'll report back in a day or two, hopefully with good news

 

[cruiserbrett]

Are you using the FJ60 igniter? (You have to with the fj60 distributor, or at least one designed for an electronic pickup distributor. Meaning a 77 or older igniter won't work...

They are pretty robust, but can fail. As can the pickup in the distributor.... Again, not likely in normal circumstances but if mis wired they can croak...

Cap and rotor are in good shape? The button inside the cap is present?

 

[DoubleNickels]

Yep, using the FJ60 igniter. Cap and rotor are brand new.

Which button inside the cap?

 

[cruiserbrett]

The small spring loaded carbon button. Inside, center cap. Transfers spark from coil plug wire to rotor.

 

[DoubleNickels]

IT LIVES!! Fired up last night. Details to follow... I think an emoticon dump is in order.

 

[bobm]

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Nice work.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Always a good feeling!

 

[DoubleNickels]

Nice work.

Hah! Thanks Dan. You swung by just a bit too early yesterday. It ain't pretty sounding, but it still gives me goosebumps. Now the project begins in earnest

Always a good feeling!

Thanks @scrapdaddy ! The culprit? Well, a simple misunderstanding of male vs. female (hah! I could go down a rabbit hole there... but I won't). From my parallel post regarding wiring issues, here is a photo I provided:

@Coolerman , bless his heart, informed me that I needed to power the ignitor assembly using the male connector. Being an electrical nOOb I thought the male connector was/is the topmost in the above picture... the entire green housing goes into the lower connector, a la male insertion. Well, that's 100% wrong. I suspect all electrical gurus (such as coolerman) refer to the actual spade itself, so in the above pic the topmost connector is actually FEMALE. Bah!

I didn't catch this mistake until digging through Coolerman's page on testing an FJ60 dizzy on the bench. Hooked it up correctly and watched the sparks fly... wooohooo. Of course I didn't see a spark previously, I was essentially trying to back-power through the Tachometer lead. Live and learn.

 

[scrapdaddy]

A little time, no money spent and a good lesson learned, that's what it's all about.

 

[PabloCruise]

Sounds like @Coolerman could offer to teach Biology 101 - Male vs. Female...

 

[J Mack]

Sounds like @Coolerman could offer to teach Biology 101 - Male vs. Female...

No need, we have already found the solution.
Just change the signs and you can be both!

 

[PabloCruise]

No need, we have already found the solution.
Just change the signs and you can be both!

I just can't click the "Like" button on that...

 

[DoubleNickels]

Haha, love it.

Monkeyed with the timing a bit, twisting the dizzy cap incrementally until it seemed to run better. I don't have my own stroboscopic timing setup, so until I borrow one this will have to do.

I'm new to carbs and have a lot to learn. For now I can't seem to get it to idle... It'll die if I take my foot out of it. I'll do some reading tonight on where to start, though of course I welcome your input!

It's also missing slightly at higher rpm's. Would this too be related to timing? Or maybe a vacuum port is affecting advance/retard. I better do some research.

 

[cruiserbrett]

Likely carb issues.

BUT, double check the rotor position at TDC. Make sure the rotor tip is under the #1 plug wire on the cap. Not idling sounds more like clogged idle carb circuit. Or just dirty in general. How is the fuel quality? New? Old and unknown?


To time by ear, find a place where it runs well, retard till it starts sounding weird. Advance then, till it noticeably starts increasing rpm. Back off a bit to a point where retarding more doesn't really change rpm down, and you will be close enough that it should be fine and idle and drive well.

 

[cruiserbrett]

One more thought, make sure IF you have the idle circuit cut off solenoid on the carb(most any after 69(?) do IIRC) that is is clicking when the key is turned to run.

 

[DoubleNickels]

Likely carb issues.

BUT, double check the rotor position at TDC. Make sure the rotor tip is under the #1 plug wire on the cap. Not idling sounds more like clogged idle carb circuit. Or just dirty in general. How is the fuel quality? New? Old and unknown?

Yep, I've quadruple-confirmed the location of the rotor relative to #1 at TDC (and verified I'm on the compression stroke). I agree it might be a clogged idle carb circuit - good to hear you mention what I suspected from my research. The fuel quality is brand spankin' new, as are all the fuel lines and fuel filter. I just had the tank boiled/stripped and re-lined and filled with fresh (non-ethanol!) fuel.

One more thought, make sure IF you have the idle circuit cut off solenoid on the carb(most any after 69(?) do IIRC) that is is clicking when the key is turned to run.

Yes, this is functional too. Thanks for the input! I am confused here, however - would the car run at all if this solenoid was toast and/or not wired correctly?

 

[cruiserbrett]

It would run, but not idle. It just shuts off the idle circuit when ignition is off. Basically there to prevent run on.

 

[DoubleNickels]

Ah! I had no idea. I had envisioned it blocking all fuel flow into the carb completely. Thanks for clarifying.

 

[thebigredrocker]

Glad you got it to fire!
How's it running now? What carb are you running?