slightly more fuel?
Builds Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter Wheelingnoob
- Start date
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Damn...
I'm also all out of ideas as well. Everything about your setup is perfect, and there are apparently some aussies running that turbo combo on 4bd1ts without any issues. It should be a tested combo from what is being reported on the net...
How does it run otherwise? Could it be that your pyro is out of whack and reading high?
Would it help to check the timing with a pulse adapter? I can send you mine by mail...
I'm also all out of ideas as well. Everything about your setup is perfect, and there are apparently some aussies running that turbo combo on 4bd1ts without any issues. It should be a tested combo from what is being reported on the net...
How does it run otherwise? Could it be that your pyro is out of whack and reading high?
Would it help to check the timing with a pulse adapter? I can send you mine by mail...
I have a t3 60 trim .48 on my bench if you want to try it.
- Thread starter
- #1,104
Yeah it's a head scratcher for sure. Yes everything with my setup should be ideal. I have not really read any reports stating that they had this turbo running or working where it should yet. I may have missed them though.
I'm going to try and swap out the EGT gauge with my brothers tomorrow. He has an autometer that has worked great for years. If the EGT gauge is reading high that would explain a lot but I still have that feeling when driving that it's being held back. Granted when I had 2 more turns of fuel in it was a diesel rocket at 25-26psi.
I'm going to try moving the timing back to the stock mark if the EGT gauge is not at fault. Though you would think retarding Timing would up the EGT's and not lower them...... I think.
Sorry man. What a bummer on the housing.
FWIW, I have mine back on the road and have essentially the same results as you with the td04hl-18t. The wheel is trashed...but I cleaned it up as best I could and put it back together. I get similar boost numbers to you. And top out at 14psi around 2400ish rpm. I think I have a bit more fuel than you as my EGT's climb pretty quick, but rarely can I get it to top 1200. I don't have black smoke either and would turn up the fuel, but don't want it to melt. I had to back my aneroid off to get it to deliver the extra turns on the max fuel screw.
While I'd love more power, I feel like my current performance is on par with the 1fz I had...what do you think?
FWIW, I have mine back on the road and have essentially the same results as you with the td04hl-18t. The wheel is trashed...but I cleaned it up as best I could and put it back together. I get similar boost numbers to you. And top out at 14psi around 2400ish rpm. I think I have a bit more fuel than you as my EGT's climb pretty quick, but rarely can I get it to top 1200. I don't have black smoke either and would turn up the fuel, but don't want it to melt. I had to back my aneroid off to get it to deliver the extra turns on the max fuel screw.
While I'd love more power, I feel like my current performance is on par with the 1fz I had...what do you think?
I don't know much about this turbo sizing business and I'll admit I bought a 19T compressor housing and picked up some volvo TD04HL turbos based on the internet recommendations. What's weird is I am getting similar/better boost performance to you guys with essentially stock fueling levels. I believe the turbo is a TD05 with a very small compressor housing and fairly large turbine. I am seeing 5-6 PSI at cruise, about 14-15 PSI max in OD (floored at 1800 rpms) and 25+ in 3rd at higher RPMs (2600-2700). I'd say it is faster than a 1FZ except in OD, but then again, I run a higher OD gear so it's not a fair comparison. I guess the sure fire way to find out would be to swap the stock turbo out for the TD04HL 19T, but I've been putting it off since it's a big job and the engine already performs well.
- Thread starter
- #1,107
Well yeah everything I read and saw said this we going to be a great turbo. Maybe it is maybe it's just my engine or something? I get 8psi at 1700rpm locked converter and EGT's in the 950-1000+ range. I only get 15psi at the very top of my Rev range and at that point it's useless.
It's feels slower than the 1fz to me other than off the line from a stop up too 30kms/h. After that my 1fz would have analated it. It's drivable but not what I want.
I really need to get this sorted out its all I can think about.
In other news yesterday I got the AC lines made and the system charged. Works great but is blowing gauge fuses so I have a short somewhere. The AC working is all stock so no mods needed to get AC working on a swap.
Yeah it sucks.
This is very strange.
To date we have several other 4BD1's with the TD04HL-19T. But they were new Kinugawa turbos, differences between those and your Volvo turbo should be minor and performance the same. One of the guys is hitting over 30psi.
The HE221 is a TD04HL-19T with a different compressor wheel (2mm bigger and less exit angle so it can do higher boost).
Is there any chance you've got leaks in the turbine side (TD04H wheel or something else silly)? Your turbine wheel was matched to the original 7cm housing? Those measurements I mentioned in the PM's will give us some idea.
If I could right now I'd buy a Td04HL-19T myself and throw it on. But my 4BD1T is off the road for panel repairs and I'm slammed for spare time.
To date we have several other 4BD1's with the TD04HL-19T. But they were new Kinugawa turbos, differences between those and your Volvo turbo should be minor and performance the same. One of the guys is hitting over 30psi.
The HE221 is a TD04HL-19T with a different compressor wheel (2mm bigger and less exit angle so it can do higher boost).
Is there any chance you've got leaks in the turbine side (TD04H wheel or something else silly)? Your turbine wheel was matched to the original 7cm housing? Those measurements I mentioned in the PM's will give us some idea.
If I could right now I'd buy a Td04HL-19T myself and throw it on. But my 4BD1T is off the road for panel repairs and I'm slammed for spare time.
Dougal is on to something (as usual). Has the compressor side been checked for boost leaks? Has the intercooler been tested?
I mentioned a compressor leak 10 posts ago. Lol. some turbo's have a deal where the compressor housing meets the turbo. Not familiar with this turbo but it sounds like air is leaking out on the compressor side.
Sorry, must have skipped over it.
I think you'd have to be ddxb to noy be able to hear see feel an air leak that bad especially at high boost. might be cheaper to put the pride aside and take it for a professional tune. You've have done all the basics shouldn't take much now.
not tremendously difficult to cap off both ends of the charged air system, with a pressure gauge and a schrader valve somewhere along the line, and see how fast it loses compression.
i'm way out of my depth here though and presume that the boost leak possibility has been looked into
i'm way out of my depth here though and presume that the boost leak possibility has been looked into
- Thread starter
- #1,114
I have a pressure tester for intercooler pipes and plan to test that when I swap in a different EGT gauge and do a compression test.
I have had boost leaks before and this is not acting like a boost leak. If I put in more fuel I get more boost eliminating a boost leak. But since I am running out of options I'll do it.
Not really interested in getting a professional tune since I have little interest in paying someone to do the some thing I can do. There really is nothing to tuning this engine it's got a max fuel screw and timing. No aranoid or boost comp.
I have had boost leaks before and this is not acting like a boost leak. If I put in more fuel I get more boost eliminating a boost leak. But since I am running out of options I'll do it.
Not really interested in getting a professional tune since I have little interest in paying someone to do the some thing I can do. There really is nothing to tuning this engine it's got a max fuel screw and timing. No aranoid or boost comp.
A professional tuner has vast diagnostic knowledge tools and tricks. Tricks that u ssually dont come out unless its seen in person if you get my drift . Taught me alot of respect from an old drifter. Just trying to save you time and money and ? good luck either way.
- Thread starter
- #1,116
Thanks
Yeah sounds like you have it under control. I would just test the actual turbo for a leak, since you say you are fairly certainly the intercooler and piping are not the issue. Sure you already know this but just for anyone else reading. Easy way to test a turbo for internal leak on the compresser side is to just put the silicone coupler on the intake and outlet. Get matching sized pvc about 5" long , run a thick bead of hot glue around the edge of the pvc to create a lip or you will blow them off, install a pipe cap with primer and cement on the other end of the pvc, drill a hole in the inlet pvc pipe cap install a Schrader valve and epoxy it in, on the outlet pvc pipe cap install a pressure gauge. Then pressurize the system. This will catch a leak from compresser to turbo housing, but will not catch a problem with the compresser wheel. Good luck!
I've had good luck in the past using those little wicks that smoulder and make lots of smoke to detect air leaks in houses like at light switches and such. I could see the smoke disturbed where as otherwise I couldn't hear or feel the leaks.
cruiserbrett
GOLD Star
I have what I imagine is a stupid question but since you're at the point of tossing hail mary's:
Are all turbos designed with compressor and turbine wheel and housing flow rotations the same? Meaning the "vane" angle "matches" the compressor or exhaust casting flow rotation? Is it possible some combo of parts is just not compatible?
I am sure I am not explaining it correctly, but for example, lets say a CCW compressor wheel is spun CCW but in a CW housing. It will still build boost as long as the wheel is spinning CCW, but the housing CW direction would seriously impede actual flow because output flow would effectively have to reverse directional to exit???
I guess same could be true driving the exhaust wheel.
I am probably asking a retarded question here, but who knows.
DISCLAIMER: I don't recall exactly what combo of parts if any beyond a stock turbo youre using
Are all turbos designed with compressor and turbine wheel and housing flow rotations the same? Meaning the "vane" angle "matches" the compressor or exhaust casting flow rotation? Is it possible some combo of parts is just not compatible?
I am sure I am not explaining it correctly, but for example, lets say a CCW compressor wheel is spun CCW but in a CW housing. It will still build boost as long as the wheel is spinning CCW, but the housing CW direction would seriously impede actual flow because output flow would effectively have to reverse directional to exit???
I guess same could be true driving the exhaust wheel.
I am probably asking a retarded question here, but who knows.
DISCLAIMER: I don't recall exactly what combo of parts if any beyond a stock turbo youre using
Reverse hsouings are not comon at all and are easily identified. I serously doubt one would make boost at all if you got it mixed up. Perhaps a reverse turbine would work a bit, but reverse compressor would be a no go.
