Builds Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build (3 Viewers)

[Wheelingnoob]

Awesome build. I am thinking of starting to stockpile parts for a swap of my own. I hope you don't mind a few questions.

I found a 1996 NPR that is running, the owner says it has a blown head gasket though and the engine has over 200k miles. So I am thinking a rebuild from the get go if I buy it. I may go look it over tomorrow morning as the guy says he will be parting it out soon. If I go for the Isuzu to FZJ80 adapter kit, what else should I pull off the NPR?

Maybe most importantly what should I look for and listen for when I take a look at the engine? I have zero experience with diesels but am a pretty good wrencher in general. Sorry for the bit of a hijack.

Thanks! Definitely start early and it's far easier to start with all the mechanical parts off the NPR it will save you time and money later.


A HG is unlikely it's more likely on a 4bd2t that the head is cracked causing the HG symptoms.

Depending on the adapter setup you get/build will dictate the parts you need. I would get the auto bell housing and flywheel/flexplate/converter combo.

Good luck with you swap!

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Yeah, the glow plugs on my 1.6TD each have a 10ga wire that goes to a fused distribution block with an individual 20A fuse for each, and a 4ga line to an 80A continuous rated solenoid, which has a 2ga line to the starter solenoid stud, which has an 0ga line to the battery that is maybe 2 feet long.

Massive overkill for four 9A glow plugs, but every little bit helps! Plus it makes it far less likely that i will burn out my $45 glow plug relay.

I hear that this is not recommended on certain engines because there are some weird glow arrangements out there that have unusually low operating voltages.

Yeah that seems a bit overkill lol.

I think the stock glow setup was a single 10-8g wire to the glow bus bar.

I'll try and play with it a bit this weekend and see what I can come up with.

 

[Timpanogos Slim]

Yeah that seems a bit overkill lol.

I think the stock glow setup was a single 10-8g wire to the glow bus bar.

I'll try and play with it a bit this weekend and see what I can come up with.

Yup, stock is 10ga to a thin copper bus bar.

This setup, with my exact solenoid anyway, also has the effect of prolonging the glow interval by a couple-three seconds. That's a bonus, because i still have the 'fast' 7 second glow relay of an NA diesel. Turbo 1.6 came with the "Slow" relay, which i can't find and don't feel like buying. For whatever reason, when the glow relay has switched off, the solenoid hangs on for a little while.

I have an omron timer relay here that will go up to 1 minute. I have considered adding it to the scenario so i can adjust the glow interval as long as i like. I don't have a strong reason to yet, tho. my block heater seems to work great if i don't need to go anywhere for an hour or so.

It's likely that I will replace the line between the solenoid and the starter's power stud with 4ga some day soon. I think the 2ga cable i found in the trunk was intended for an alternator upgrade that i have decided not to tackle just yet, and i want to put a fuse on this lead anyway. And I'm thinking about piggybacking it to power an amp in the trunk.

Back on topic anyway, someone here is trying to sell what he says is a "1979 4BD1 with a turbo installed". If he were asking $500 i would already have it in my shed, but he's asking $1500 which is a thousand dollars too much for a "huh what?" engine.

 

[CO_Hunter]

Thanks! Definitely start early and it's far easier to start with all the mechanical parts off the NPR it will save you time and money later.


A HG is unlikely it's more likely on a 4bd2t that the head is cracked causing the HG symptoms.

Depending on the adapter setup you get/build will dictate the parts you need. I would get the auto bell housing and flywheel/flexplate/converter combo.

Good luck with you swap!

Cracked head!?!? Thanks for the heads up and look out there, that would be the deal killer. thanks

 

[Wheelingnoob]

So today I swapped on the 6cm turbine housing. Took about an hour to swap. The turbo despite my previous concerns is still in new condition. No shaft play at all.

After all that I tested it and...... We'll no change. I did get maybe 1psi and it possibly it is slightly quicker response. But the change is neglagible and could be due to the change in temperature. It's below freezing here and last time I drove it was 7c out so that maybe the reason for the added 1psi boost.

So basically it was a $290 test that failed.

I'm out of ideas, I can't get this turbo making anywhere near the amount of boost it should and it's performance is lazy.

Sigh

 

[gerg]

I'm seriously sorry that didn't work man. I really thought it would have a greater bennifit than that. We should do something with that little td04l you borrowed from me.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I'm seriously sorry that didn't work man. I really thought it would have a greater bennifit than that. We should do something with that little td04l you borrowed from me.

Yeah, I have it sitting here waiting for a trip back up there to you.

The turbine on this turbo is already so small I'm not sure if it's needs smaller. I don't know this is totally baffling me. I have never had this kind of problem getting a turbo to work. It's strange it's almost like it's choking but I don't know how that could be. One thing I found was that the Wastegate flapper has not open on the old turbine, there was no soot on the seat of the valve. So obviously running only 15psi with a 24psi Wastegate actuator it should not be opening. I don't know I'm just grasping at straws.

Last option is just leave it as is and move onto finishing the swap.

 

[Timpanogos Slim]

ugh, good luck! I made my first dash around the block in my 1.6TD coupe tonight. Fuel was up a bit high so it was racing whenever i shifted gears.

 

[ForealBoreal]

that seriously sucks about the turbo.
What are your plans then?

 

[BOOSTED80]

Bite the bullet and put the Holset HE221W on it, it's a proven performer & resell the turbo you have.

 

[cjmoon]

I run an hx30 on my 4bt I know it's not apples to apples but 6cm housing I would have to look up wheel specs. Y waist gate has not opened either i have never given it enough fuel. 20-25 psi max 960f max but it's claiming at that point I don't have passes here in Kansas to get a max heat soaked value. I'm planning on running mine to open 28-30. Right now my gate is in plugged.

It sounds like your exhaust is very non restricted from previous posts but what about taking the muffler out let it dump close to the down tube just to see where your at?

Can you get boost level before an after intercooler?

Just thoughts. I'm having trouble getting revs out of mine 3200gov spring starting to defuel at 2000 and max out at 2700 no load. Fuel/pump tuning is frustrating.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I run an hx30 on my 4bt I know it's not apples to apples but 6cm housing I would have to look up wheel specs. Y waist gate has not opened either i have never given it enough fuel. 20-25 psi max 960f max but it's claiming at that point I don't have passes here in Kansas to get a max heat soaked value. I'm planning on running mine to open 28-30. Right now my gate is in plugged.

It sounds like your exhaust is very non restricted from previous posts but what about taking the muffler out let it dump close to the down tube just to see where your at?

Can you get boost level before an after intercooler?

Just thoughts. I'm having trouble getting revs out of mine 3200gov spring starting to defuel at 2000 and max out at 2700 no load. Fuel/pump tuning is frustrating.

See that just baffles me, 20-25psi and sub 1000f EGT's. It makes me think there is somthing about my engine that is not right. Either timing or somthing else. Timing is set to 13deg (verified with a spill test before the engine was put in) .

I just do not understand how two engines so similar in displacement and almost every other detail can react so differently.

Having a turbo on an engine that reves to 3000rpm and does not make full boost till 2500rpm sucks. I have 10psi at 1700RPM but that last 5psi comes on so slow.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Low EGTs is a direct cause of low fueling. More fuel always = higher EGTs.

Now, the 4BD1T has a better VE (volumetric efficiency) based on what I've read, so if anything, it should respond better than a 4BT. Most recently with my 4BT, I thought my turbo was a dog, maxing out at 30psi or so, but then I corrected my throttle travel and repaired my aneroid (essentially allowing more fuel faster as boost came up), I now hit 30psi at 1800rpm under load, and 35psi by 2400rpm.

In short, try turning up your fueling a bit and retest, leaving everything else the same.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Low EGTs is a direct cause of low fueling. More fuel always = higher EGTs.

Now, the 4BD1T has a better VE (volumetric efficiency) based on what I've read, so if anything, it should respond better than a 4BT. Most recently with my 4BT, I thought my turbo was a dog, maxing out at 30psi or so, but then I corrected my throttle travel and repaired my aneroid (essentially allowing more fuel faster as boost came up), I now hit 30psi at 1800rpm under load, and 35psi by 2400rpm.

In short, try turning up your fueling a bit and retest, leaving everything else the same.

Yep, I had the fuel turned up and I was making 26psi issue was the EGT's where uncontrollable. I would hat 1300egt with in seconds. I had no visible smoke when it was set there though.

Problem with that is around here as soon as I get in the mountains I'll melt the engine down in no time.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Yep, I had the fuel turned up and I was making 26psi issue was the EGT's where uncontrollable. I would hat 1300egt with in seconds. I had no visible smoke when it was set there though.

Problem with that is around here as soon as I get in the mountains I'll melt the engine down in no time.

I'm getting to that point as well. I've already got a HX30 with a 6cm2 turbine housing, so I couldn't go much smaller and retain the top-end power. I could go for a smaller compressor, like an HE221, but I'm afraid of losing the top-end without compounds.

An intercooler, or smaller tires, is the real solution to our EGT problems.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I'm getting to that point as well. I've already got a HX30 with a 6cm2 turbine housing, so I couldn't go much smaller and retain the top-end power. I could go for a smaller compressor, like an HE221, but I'm afraid of losing the top-end without compounds.

An intercooler, or smaller tires, is the real solution to our EGT problems.

I have an intercooler and only run 35" At tires with 4:10 so not overly large.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I have an intercooler and only run 35" At tires with 4:10 so not overly large.

I did not remember that you had an intercooler already. Sorry for the useless posts then, I'll go back and read more

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I did not remember that you had an intercooler already. Sorry for the useless posts then, I'll go back and read more

It's all good.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Took my brother 60 powered by a 2H that I turboed a few years go using a T3 super 60mm of a drive. The turbo has a .48 turbine. His truck will make 15psi by 1600rpm that is only limited by the fuel. I tuned it to max out at 1050f.

After seeing how fast his boost comes on and how it's behaved on an engine of similar displacement it's really got me wondering what is going on with mine. I'm half tempted to pull his turbo off and try it on mine but it's easier said than done and it would require taking his truck off the road.

I know I do not have a fuel issue EGT's proved that. Exhaust after the turbo is all 3" with a straight through muffler. Intake is 3" to a 3" to 2.5" of elbow then to a 2.5" cobra head. All free flowing can't see any issues there. Intercooler is a tube a fin 23"x14"x2" with 2.5" pipes too and from.

I'm going to check again for boost leaks tomorrow but all past tests where negative.

I know the wastegate is not getting forced open so that is not it.

Valves where adjusted 2400kms ago so are fine.

 

[scottryana]

Does the turbo sound like it is spinning up loudly? Maybe a leak internal to the turbo. Turbo is getting exhaust, spinning the shaft, but instead of compressing air there is a leak around the compressor?

If the turbo doesn't sound like it is spinning up than it could be a motor problem?