Builds Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build (3 Viewers)

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Do you have info on the EBI low range gears? Did a quick search but don't see anything on the web.

Thanks! Here is the link to there site http://www.extremebends.com they are made in Japan as well as the others 3:1 low. Its seriously crawls in low with the Diesel.

Ill post some more impressions once I get it off road.


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What are you running for suspension? Are those pin mount Fox 2.0s? Mine has bagged Bilsteins and worn out OME springs. I need to do something about the suspension. I was thinking of going for F-O-A 2.0s, 10", and maybe messing with the bottom mount to turn it into a pin mount, but messing with valving forever is not my idea of a good time.

Looking good! I can't believe you went for the crawler gears, this this is going to crawl like a dozer. The big 4 cyl diesel and auto combo is unbelievable. I have never wanted lower gears, there is just so much grunt.


Yep 2.0 fox pin mounts with slee 4" springs. Seems to ride nice so far.....on my street. More impressions later once I have driven a decent amount on them.

Yeah the crawler gears are awesome. I put it in low the other day to see how it was and its cool, not get out and walk slow but much better than before.




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I tried using the chart in the documentation for the dakota digital box to compute my ratio, however in the end I ended up having to just hold the up or down button to adjust it. It takes a bit but was pretty straightforward. When I talked to their tech support about it this seemed to be their preferred method.

Shouldn't be an issue for your sensor setup, but on mine routing the input and output wires too close together messed up the tach output. I reused some shielded sensor wire I cut out of the loom for the input wire and that helped a bunch.


Yeah I got it sorted out yesterday. I had to adjust the the dip switches and then change the course settings till I got it matching the laser tach I got. Seems to be working good now.


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WN.....Thought you'd fallen off the planet man.... good to see you back.... now restart one of the best threads on mud

Haha yeah it felt like I fell off the planet. Working on the restart!



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So I have been busy with work this week but today I had a chance to work on it a bit more. I had an idea for the kick down to allow WOT shifting and still have decent shifts at low throttle. Ill get some pictures Tuesday of what I came up with.

I also got it to the point I can get insurance on it and actually test drive it.

I did test drive it a bit today to test the kick down adjustments. I think I have a lack of boost issue too. Im only getting 10psi max but my EGT's maxed out at 850f. That was also only in my neighborhood so not a lot of load.

My hope is it just needs more fuel.

Feels good just needs more boost/fuel.


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Check the waste gate linkage? Perhaps it's leaking a bit or has leaks in your piping? But when in doubt add more fuel!
Congrats. I'm away till the end of the month, but I'd love to come by and take a look.
g
 
Check the waste gate linkage? Perhaps it's leaking a bit or has leaks in your piping? But when in doubt add more fuel!
Congrats. I'm away till the end of the month, but I'd love to come by and take a look.
g

Linkage is good, 1.7bar WG spring with 1/4" preload. All couplers are silicone, t bolted and bead cemented. So would be surprised if I had a boost leak.

I plan to get insurance on it when Im on my weekend tus/Wnds, so I can take it for a proper shakedown. Still need to hook up lockup on tuesday AM and build a bit more exhaust.

3:1 crawl and auto with lower stall is ridiculous. I top out at 30km/hr in 4th. And at idle it will pull its self up my driveway at a very slow walking speed.

I will also feed it more fuel to see if I can get some life out of it.


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With 850F EGT I'm surprised you can even get 10psi boost.

Sounds like a fuel issue.
 
Was not able to test it out today. Spend about 4 hours working on the exhaust. Got it from the start of the t case up and over to the back of the t case. Lots of little bends and tweaks to clear everything. The Aero turbine is long as well so is making it challenging. I need to fit a 6-8in flex somewhere but I just have no lengths of straight pipe to use.

Hope to get the rest of the exhaust done tomorrow. I also mounted the exhaust break as well.


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Sorry for the delay.

On my weekend all I was able to get done was the exhaust. The Aero turbine XL3030 is awesome, the exhaust at idle is very quiet actually the entire thing is now quiet engine and exhaust.

Unfortunately the loud exhaust was covering up a bottom end knock on cold start. Its got to do with the delay in building oil pressure on cold start. Its about 5-8 sec at the moment kind of like starting an engine after an oil change with out pre filling the filter. I have a feeling its the filters allowing the oil to drain back into the sump. I have great oil pressure once its running. 80psi at idle cold and 40ish hot tested at 2k RPM. At idle its 20 hot 38-40 cold.

So I do not think its the oil pump, it must be the filters? The oil system is stock other than my filter adapter to raise the filters up 4". No rubber lines no extra long oil lines.

Im going to try and put on some Donaldson filters and new oil. I have Wix on it now. I have only been able to find Isuzu, Wix/Napa and Donaldson's.

The next step is to get a pre oiler on so there is pressure at start no mater what.

Going to do the oil change and filters tomorrow. Then if that fixes it move onto the final wiring for the lock up control and a few other final things.


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I don think it's the oil relocation. Mine has a somewhat similar set up and seems to build pressure faster than that. I am using isuzu filters if that helps in narrowing down the options.

Jealous of your aero turbine and would love pics of the exhaust when you get time. I bought the same muffler and was hoping to put it on but the exhaust shop didn't want to run 3" all the way back so I hooked up to stock exhaust.

Hope the filters do the trick for ya so you can keep on moving!
 
Thanks I was actually going to send you a message and see what filters you had.

Ill update everyone when I do the oil change with the results.


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So changed the oil the other day and installed some Baldwin filters. Pressure seems to build the same as before. After hearing a brand new Jeep wrangler start the other day and rattle for about 20sec I do not feels so bad about mine.

I got insurance on the truck yesterday, finished up the exhaust and got the lockup controller installed. Overall it was very easy, thanks to some tips from Longbow. Right now I have it setup to lock at 70kms/hr. I can adjust it as low as 30kms/hr. I have found though that the trans shifts quickly through gears and if it locks with the engine only at say 1000rpm its slow to accelerate. If I manually shift down to say 2nd locked as long as the RPM's are over 1300-1400rpm it goes good.

So I put about 50kms on it yesterday, up the hwy and back. A few hills and cruising anywhere from 90-115kms/hr. Its great! Lots of power, can accelerate with ease. Engine is smooth and quiet. I need to get the rest of my lift finished to turn it into a well behaving truck again, 4" lift no caster correction is a handful on rutted hwy.

My rear panhard bar bolt is sized solid on the axle end too. Its rusty and no amount of heat or 3/4" impact has budged it. Not sure what to do with that.

More driving and refinements today. Im experiencing slow boost and low boost as well like Lostith (sp) not sure why. Going to turn in a bit more fuel today and see if that wakes it up. So far not a hint of smoke out the pipe.

Max EGT up a hill for 3min was 1000f holding steady And about 13psi.






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[QUOTE="... if it locks with the engine only at say 1000rpm its slow to accelerate. If I manually shift down to say 2nd locked as long as the RPM's are over 1300-1400rpm it goes good."

'[/QUOTE]

Great build, Jeremy, good to see progress. Minor comment "Diesels don't accelerate, they gather speed", so you're all good! :)

While my turbo made a huge difference in this department, it's no gasser! :cheers:
 
Minor comment "Diesels don't accelerate, they gather speed", so you're all good! :)

While my turbo made a huge difference in this department, it's no gasser! :cheers:
I like the way you put that. My Cummins is the same way. Not fast at all but I can accelerated up a hill with ease.
 
Rob you nailed it.

George no I don't work for them. Ill check out the filter place, thanks.

So I have been battling with a few issues. Main one is overheating at hwy speeds. Around town its fine but with in 3min of getting to 100km/hr it starts creeping up. With in 5min I'm off the road trying to cool it. I have swapped fan clutches now its got a rebuilt toyota clutch with 20k cst fluid. I also seem to be getting a huge hydrolock in the cooling system. Each time it does it i have to put in 500ml to 1L of water. The t stat housing is the high point in my system and to try and fix the issue yesterday I put a bleeder in it. Hoping it would allow the air to get purged.

Tonight on my drive it was 20c (70f ish) same exact thing as last time. Fan was free spinning even when the engine was at 230f. When i limped it back home again I had air in the t stat housing again.

At 100km/hr Cruise i have 3-4psi and 750-800f EGT's. Everything else seems good lots of power and it cruises effortlessly. I just want to be able to cruise longer than 5min and when its hotter than 70f.

Here are a few pictures of the kick down setup that seems to be working great. I have good shifts at light throttle and at full throttle it will shift right at about 3100rpm. Feels great. The electronic lock up works fantastic! I'm using a B&M electronic lock up control. I can adjust the lock up speed from 30km/hr up too....well I have not found the max yet. Its amazing how fast the trans temps drop when its locked.



This the measurement from the center pivot of the cruise actuator.



Basically it works out to 3/4" travel from idle to full throttle. I have played around with the pre load on the cable and got it dialed into my liking.

So i really need to get this overheating issue sorted out so I can actually start comfortably driving it.

Plan is to lock the old Isuzu fan clutch so it is solid. And see if that helps. Then take out the new OEM thermostat and make sure its working. When the top housing is off Im going to see if I can weld on a thermostat housing since its the high point. That way I can make sure its fully rid of air. Other option is I have a cracked head or HG. But I want to eliminate every other possibility first.






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nice document on the shift linkage. sounds like two issues with heat. the fan has it's own thermo spring ,if its 230 it should be tighter to turn. the air issue can be many things. id change out the cap for a start . then pull the t/stat and run it . i assume youve pressure tested the systems throughout your build. it looks like your rad neck is the highest spot, can you not bleed it out from the cap when the t/stat is open. might want to pull your heater house down abit just incase that is your issue. and yes i know you dont work with cranes ,that was code. they dont deal with piddily customers, tell them the motor model and number and maybe the flow and micron you want or options availible. way better and way cheaper.
 

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