Builds I need to practice my diesel swap skills. So I will. (FJ-60 getting a 12HT) (1 Viewer)

[DanS HJ-45]

So, with the motor mounts settled, and a little wait for parts (and a flywheel), I figured I'd best get busy swapping all of the stuff from the body of the half cut to the FJ-60.

First up was the PS reservoir. If you aren't familiar with how to do this, a diesel swap probably isn't in your future, but if you want to swap engines from half cuts and things, this is a good skill to have.

So, I'll walk you through the process (most of you should know it already).

1. Drill out spot welds that hold bracket to the body
2. Clean up the bracket (wire wheel or blast cabinet)
3. Place bracket into position on new vehicle, to make sure you've got the position correct. (Toyota generally has only one body, it just gets different brackets welded to it depending on the specific model of truck)
4. Weld the bracket onto the new body.
5. Prime and paint it to look like it was always there!

Here's about what that list looks like, but with pictures!

 

[DanS HJ-45]

So, the right fender actually had some rust. Specifically, underneath the battery it had rusted out.


Now, bodywork on a 60 isn't exactly my favorite, because compared to the older 40s the metal is pretty thin. But, no matter, we've got a pretty good fender in the half cut that isn't totally rusted out, so....

Cut out the rusty area from the fender...


Trace the shape of the patch onto the donor fender...


Cut out the patch, trim it to fit (this part takes a long time), and tack it into place. Moving around the piece, and giving it plenty of time to cool between welds.


Finish the welds up.


After that, a little work with a flap disc or grinder and it's good as new!

OK, that's really all the pics I've got from tonight. I am heading back home tomorrow for a a day, but will be back at it on sunday. The job next week is to get the wiring harness sorted out and either modify the FJ-60 harness, or, figure something else out. Either way, pretty easy. MUCH easier than my 2LT-E was, that's for sure.

Dan

 

[HJ61 12HT]

Hi Dan. You're going great guns there!

Seeing your Dad's new engine run in a half-cut is really cool! And that turbo sounds great!

These two things are indeed pressure switches according to the EPC:
View attachment 824818

Apparently one is set to 100 and the other is set to 800.

So I wonder what metric units those would be if they're activating the boost lights?

And this is the VSV (vacuum switching valve) apparently:

View attachment 824820

Those pressure switches just turn on the LEDs in the rev counter, green one at about 5psi and red at about 13psi?

The VSV pictured is the one that activates the engine shut off valve in the air intake, just above the glow screens.

 

[lostmarbles]

Those pressure switches just turn on the LEDs in the rev counter, green one at about 5psi and red at about 13psi?

So does anyone know what units Toyota is using here to get the figures 100 and 800?

 

[HJ61 12HT]

So does anyone know what units Toyota is using here to get the figures 100 and 800?

View attachment 825328

My guess is atmospheres, 0.800 is about 12psi, and 0.100 is 1.5psi
That would seem to relate to when the lights go on and off on my 61...

 

[fitzmooney]

That is pressure measured in hectopascals (hPa).

 

[lostmarbles]

My guess is atmospheres, 0.800 is about 12psi, and 0.100 is 1.5psi
That would seem to relate to when the lights go on and off on my 61...

That would have been right if they'd said 0.8 and 0.1.

That is pressure measured in hectopascals (hPa).

Well that works out right.

But shame on Toyota if its true because those metric units are so rarely used that I reckon they should have at least typed in the unit symbols to make sure everyone knew what they were talking about.



Sorry for the sidetrack ... but I often get hung up on trivial details.

 

[OGBeno]

They do show this information in the FSM.

 

[lostmarbles]

They do show this information in the FSM.

The plot thickens...

My copy of RM012E FSM shows Toyota using more acceptable units of measurement there (not hectopascals) AND they give slightly different pressure values too:

 

[esh]

2-15psi, awesome info.

Great work on the swap. You are a machine!

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Great work on the swap. You are a machine!

Only when I'm here.

Yesterday I flew back to Colorado to go to a play with (and to get some parts from CO) then today flew back to New Mexico to keep on keeping on with the swap.

Dad has been cleaning up a bunch of the parts. That resonator tube for the intake never looked so good!

Pictures tomorrow. Promise.

Dan

 

[DanS HJ-45]

So, quick question to ponder before I post pics of todays progress: where do you mount an aftermarket temp sensor on a 12HT?

I only have one spot for a sensor on the thermostat housing, and there's the glow timer temp sensor in the side of the engine--I'm not seeing any other obvious locations to tap into it.

Anyone? Would prefer not to put one into the heater hose outlet on the back of the head, since that still involved modifying things, and doesn't tell me much about the water at it's hottest (as it leaves the engine on it's way to the radiator), and might not read reliably if the heat valves are closed (no flow through the heater cores--and thus that fitting).

Dan

 

[OGBeno]

Great work on the swap. You are a machine!

Seriously!

I've assisted with a couple of builds at the Silbaugh residence over the years, but this one definitely looks like it is going to be the quickest I have witnessed.





Great work Dan. Order dropped tonight.

 

[Diesel Cruiserman]

I found it to be very fast, I would make a wiring harness on the floor with long leads. This was when I was doing two or three swaps at one time..


Did not fuss with removing the dash..did all the wiring under the hood.


Green light and red are a waste of time, boost gauge and piro..fo sure.

Nice work Dan..

Rob

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Seriously!

I've assisted with a couple of builds at the Silbaugh residence over the years, but this one definitely looks like it is going to be the quickest I have witnessed.





Great work Dan. Order dropped tonight.

Very good.

The parts fairy visited us this morning.



Yeah, this one is going wicked fast. My estimate is another 3-4 day of solid work to finish it up. Of course, I am leaving tomorrow for roughly a week and a half, so....

Did not fuss with removing the dash..did all the wiring under the hood.

Too late! Only takes 15 minutes to get the dash out, really. I will likely lay the new wiring on top of the original harness. That's how I did the 2LT-E swap, and even with all of that silly EFI nonsense, 100,000+ miles later it hasn't missed a beat.

Green light and red are a waste of time, boost gauge and piro..fo sure.

I just can't stand not to have the green and red lights. They are there, so I must use them. I may be not quite so anal retentive this time, but no way I could let that one slip! Besides, laying the wiring over will probably be all of a 30 minute job.

But yeah, the Pyro, Boost Gauge and Water Temp are all going in (see below). At least, if I can figure out where to put the water temp sensor!!! WTF Toyota!?!?

 

[DanS HJ-45]

But, I get ahead of myself....

Dad got some paint to match the original color, and painted the fenders (especially the one I hacked the rust out of, and welded a bracket to).


Dad also did a lot of cleaning of various bits and pieces. Here's the Air Cleaner all gussied up. It looks almost new!


And the frame got cleaned up, and given a fresh coat of Chassis Black.


I'm still mighty proud of those welds.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

I then turned my attention to the throttle and throttle cable situation. The LHD HJ-61 parts are not available, so I got to thinking, and measuring....

Still not positive it will work, but so far it looks promising to me. I think the RHD cable will reach over the engine to the IP, it's actually a shorter distance than from the right side, but it is over the engine now.

Here's the complete RHD throttle pedal, cable, and hand throttle collection.


Without further ado, time to make it work... The pad for the cable is stamped into the firewall, so three holes must be drilled...


And now that there's holes, there must be nutserts so that you can bolt the assembly in from the inside of the truck...


And the installed cable. Like I said, I *think* it will reach. If not, I'll have to go buy some hotrod part to make it work.


Of course, it's not quite that simple. Here's the two pedals for comparison. On the right is the RHD HJ-61 pedal, and on the left is the LHD FJ-60 pedal.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

So the solution I came up with was to use the FJ-60 accelerator pedal, but modify it with the HJ-61 bits.

I'm going to leave the FJ-60 linkage, because not only is it not hurting anything, but it seals up the hole that would be left if I cut it off.


And here you can see the different offset of the fittings between the two.


I have it tacked into place and pretty much ready to do, but I do want to get the engine in, and the range of movement checked before I finish up the welding and then powder coat the pedal assembly. So far, I like how it has turned out.

I drilled and tapped the exhaust manifold for the pyrometer... I've read about the divider that makes it hard to impossible to get exhaust from all 6 cylinders flowing past there, but I'd rather get the pyro in pre-turbo as opposed to worrying about which cylinders specifically are flowing past the pyro itself.


And then i decided to start attaching the aftermarket gauges. I bought the pod from New South Performance--very pleased with it.

Basically, I drilled holes through the dash for the gauge pod. Then, I took a bar that was as long as the pod is wide, and then I welded two M6 studs to it that stick through the dash, and through the pod--so all that is needed is to hold it down with two nuts. I also drilled a larger hole in the dash for the wiring to pass through.



Then I had to mock up the gauges in the pod. All Isspro backlit gauges. I'm very impressed with what I see so far. I've used Autometer gauges in my other swaps, but these seem better designed than those do.


We also checked, and the 2F clutch bolts directly to the 12HT flywheel, and the throwout bearing is the same. Good stuff to know.

That's it for now! I have sourced a flywheel to replace the cracked one, so that's good stuff, and as Onur noted above--parts are on the way. I will be gone for a week and a half or so, but fingers crossed that when I get back we can get the truck back on the road in a matter of days. I think we can.

Dan

 

[Spudman]

Green light and red are a waste of time, boost gauge and piro..fo sure.

Rob

Hey guys

Could I just ask a quick question about the red and green lights, I've only had my 12HT for a month.

When does the red light come on and what should I do if the red light comes on?

Thanks

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Hey guys

Could I just ask a quick question about the red and green lights, I've only had my 12HT for a month.

When does the red light come on and what should I do if the red light comes on?

Thanks

Green light comes on at 2.0 psi of boost. Basically tells you that you are making some boost.

Red light comes on at 15.5 psi of boost. If you get that light, you should back off with the throttle.

At least, the FSM quoted above says those are the numbers where those lights come on.

Dan