Finally Bought my first CRUISER! (1 Viewer)

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Nice job, I want to do that but fear the snow will attack me when I start loosening the bolt, Did you measure the snap rings, I dont think anyone orders them from the dealer?
I am dreaming of a fixmepropellershaft Christmas but :princess: might not share that :grinpimp:

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Nice job, I want to do that but fear the snow will attack me when I start loosening the bolt, Did you measure the snap rings, I dont think anyone orders them from the dealer?
I am dreaming of a fixmepropellershaft Christmas but :princess: might not share that :grinpimp:

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I probably should have checked out the FSM on this before install, but just did it the plain old red neck way I have done in the past. These were moog after market ujoints, came with snaprings of full thickness of the groove. when pressing back into the yoke, simply preinstall the one snapring and seat it tight (with TRE puller). Install the second snap ring and then give the end of the yoke a light squeeze in the vice to align and center both bearings. The bearings are too tight until the centering squeeze in the vice at which point they are smooth in rotation but 0 play or slop.

Called it a job done, installed the driveshaft's and went for a spin. I wont bore you with pics of the new install as the scenery today was spectacular!

This makes all the wrenching more than worth it! :) :steer: :)

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Great rig and a great thread, i must say. Nice work!
Any bumper plans?
:cheers:

Oh yes. Once all the important fixes are done we can start on the cosmetic and fun things! I plan on building both front and rear bumpers. Front with a winch, rear with ladder and tire carrier swingouts. Probably wont happen till summer some time.
 
A little light reading while I wait for parts to arrive...
Link http://www.serie4.it/download/h41-h42-h50-h55f.pdf
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And a friend stopped by to let me borrow his compression tester.
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So sometime when I get some time away from the Christmas charade I will be base lining my 3b's compression numbers. Hopefully all is well but knowing whether I need to budget/plan for engine work in the near future vs years from now will help put my mind at ease, and potentially encourage deeper back country exploration!
 
A big thank you to Kurt @cruiseroutfit. I ordered from 3 places on the same day and yours won the race!
Tranmission, Tcase kit and some other goodies arrived!
Initial impression is the kits look very complete, all high quality. Want to go get working on it but gotta go watch christmas movies with the kids...
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A big thank you to Kurt @cruiseroutfit. I ordered from 3 places on the same day and yours won the race!
Tranmission, Tcase kit and some other goodies arrived!
Initial impression is the kits look very complete, all high quality. Want to go get working on it but gotta go watch christmas movies with the kids...

Thank you :cool:
 
I have heard a few times now some grinding like, or rapid banging noises when punching it (to turn on to a busy road or something) and have suspected motor mounts since I got it due to excessive engine/tranny movement. No noticeable wear marks on the fan shroud.

Got out a couple times over the holiday to get out in the snow. On the way home last I could smell exhaust so cracked a window and didn't think too much more about it.

Looked under the hood when we got home and the exhaust downspout was cracked and flopping around (sorry no pics). And missing paint on the wheel fender where the downspout has been smacking into it.

I took my broken exhaust to work and put some goober welds on it to hold it all in place. Not using the right weld wire for this stainless but it should work for now... Currently the exhaust is only 2" OD (leaf blower), straight piped and this is maybe moving up the list of things to redo, and go 2.5 or 3" mandrel bent properly.

So, good timing that motor mounts just arrived!
Out with the old, in with the new.
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Even rolling around in the snow this was a relatively easy job.
 
That is a serious looking toboggan hill. The kids must hit 60mph going down that thing
This is a sweet hill. Pick your height as it is a long steep hike. Usually by 1/4 way up I am getting tired and about half is the highest I have gone, or seen anyone else go. This is super fun but I think my spine is a bit shorter..... couple bumps on the way down.
Me and my niece.
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Finally got around to putting together a puller for bearing removal on the transmission and worked like a charm.
Used allen keys to fill the void and keep the puller rods seated on the bearing. Puller rods are simply ground out partially and placed on a fly-wheel puller. All pulled with some mild torque required, but most importantly some hard heat (I prefer MAPP gas as higher heat vs propane) on the inner race of the bearing (but not the shaft!) to expand it partially helps greatly on these tasks.

Please excuse my organized chaos... its quite a mess at the moment!

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And...... the numbers are in

First compression numbers on my 1981 turbo'd 3b engine with 495,000 kms. Engine history is unknown, possibly rebuilt already?

Spec is 427 psi,
Minimum is 284 psi,
*no more than 28 psi difference between cylinders*

Cyl 1 - 425 psi
Cyl 2 - 390 psi
Cyl 3 - 395 psi
Cyl 4 - 435 psi


I am feelin pretty good about these numbers, although the 28 psi differential pressure is out of spec, all is within about 10%. :)
 
And a successful day!

Compression checked! :)


Transmission cleaned!
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Transmission painted!
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I built this frame last year to press grapes and cherry's into wine! Works wonderful! Also works to press bearings!
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And output shaft is rebuilt! New needle bearings! All within spec as per FSM!!!! YA!!!!
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Well, some days you win, some days not so much...

I share my pain in hopes that it save someone else a headache. Sometimes I just have to learn lessons the hard way.



The inner race on the idler shaft was a pain to remove.... ground down the tips of a small puller to get er done.:)
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Transmission input bearing was a beeatch to press off. Squished a piece of 4" sch40 pipe into an oval (sch 80 probably would have worked better) to catch the snap ring on the bearing, a (32 or 34mm) deep socket over the pilot 'tip', and press just right with everything in perfect alignment......

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And new bearing on....... Tapped it on, right on the OD of the bearing (LOL I know, exactly what you are not supposed to do!). DO NOT DO THIS. Thought I was saving time with a short cut cause I didnt want to take the time to make the right bushing....
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While it all looks great, this is why you dont do this (Turn the volume up)! :censor:



So, now I wait several days.... or a week for a new bearing and do it right this time! Turned some pipe at work to clear the 40mm shaft. I'll show you how it works when my new bearing shows.
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Insurance is up today and Im going to let her sit for a few months for the snow/mud to dry up.

Let me finish up the drivetrain rebuild and catch up on a few other things (body mounts etc)
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Got the old girl out for a good run today... climbed some good long hills until I hit the end of the road and turn around :(
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Still waiting on that bearing...... grr
 
I've got a tech question for you. Seeing as how you are in the midst of ripping apart your transmission and transfer case.

I believe the seal between my transmission and transfer case is leaking. My transmission oil is low and my transfer case oil is high. I've got a 3b with the h55, and I don't know what transfer case.
My question is this,
Can I pull just the transfer case out from under the truck and replace the seal? Everything I read says I need to pull both the transmission and transfer case, which seems like a much bigger job
 
I've got a tech question for you. Seeing as how you are in the midst of ripping apart your transmission and transfer case.

I believe the seal between my transmission and transfer case is leaking. My transmission oil is low and my transfer case oil is high. I've got a 3b with the h55, and I don't know what transfer case.
My question is this,
Can I pull just the transfer case out from under the truck and replace the seal? Everything I read says I need to pull both the transmission and transfer case, which seems like a much bigger job
I dont see any reason why you couldn't replace the seal with the transmission still in the truck. It definitely will be more difficult doing this under the truck vs on a bench as you need to pull and reinstall both halves of the split t-case, but worth it if your rear main seal, clutch and transmission is all good.
 
@Cruising Canuck check this out... drop the transfer case only from the truck, replace your seals and whatever else..... And away you go!



Some more parts waiting to be installed this spring
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And transfer case is all prepped and ready!
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Just waiting on that bearing.... still
 
T-case Low range gear oil clearance looks in spec. .0018" clearance. (.0014" minimum, .0032" Max per FSM)

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Not so great on the Hi range gear... .0045", out of spec
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Well this bronze bushing is NOT included in the rebuild kit.... although available at marlin crawler and already pre purchased in anticipation of this. I do need to turn a SST to remove the bushing an plan to do this tomorrow.



The needle bearing had to be removed and have seen mention of the bread trick in the past.... been looking for a reason to try this out. I must say, super easy and will do again!

Stuff the bearing full of bread
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Press or tap in a proper diameter shaft and out it comes! Like Butter...
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Ready for a wash in the parts bin .... almost ready for reassembly!
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I am hopeful I may see the transmission input shaft bearing tomorrow, before the weekend, but im not holding my breath.
 

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