Finally Bought my first CRUISER! (1 Viewer)

[dkyuss]

Got home today and yanked the countershaft bearing, which JUST allowed the input shaft to clear the coutershaft gears. Thankfully!

And a little tap on the hub to reseat it, and lone behold, a 10 thou shim fits snugly behind the snap ring.
With this shim in place, my thrust clearances are nicely in spec once again!

Mark 5 snap ring is ordered and en route. Simple fix, and now I can sleep, and install this with no regrets!

@Output Shaft Thanks for your input. Much appreciated.

Cheers

 

[dkyuss]

Some more playin today. Had to re draw or render my shifters in some different software to get the engraving to work correctly on the curved surface.

And here with toolpaths shown in Red

And a close up of the toolpath on the engraving only

Hoping to cut some chips today....

 

[dkyuss]

Chips were made!
Endmill Roughing to hog off the excess material

Then .25" ball mill to clean up the main 'dome'

And then on to the tiny carbide engraver.

Quick buff with some scotchbrite

T-case shifter hot off the CNC

And a quick buff to shine er up

Still need to carve maple handles for these, and glue them in place.
Overall I am pleased with how these turned out. Some minor imperfections in the engraving, but I can live with it.
I may paint these and then polish again, leaving color in the engraved areas to define it a little better.

 

[gator25]

Looks great!

 

[OGBeno]

Got my input bearing! FWIW OEM supplied a NSK bearing, not Koyo.
View attachment 1196049

Koyo is NOT the only bearing supplier to Toyota.

Koyo has a leg up because they are a keiretsu company but that's it.

Toyota uses Timken (of which Koyo recently bought out their roller bearing business).

Toyota also used NSK and SKF as well.

They are all considered OEM when coming in the red and white boxes since they are guaranteed Japanese manufactured.

 

[dkyuss]

So getting some maple ready for carving. I cut this old maple down 5 years ago so it is good and aged. Maybe not perfectly dry as it has been outside. Hopefully no issues

Blanks ready to go

Chisel and hammer to rough it out. I am going for a full fisted claw hold on this shifter.

Some rough sanding

@M8ker love to get you pro input on finish as I am just fine sanding now. I was thinking of breaking out a torch to accent the curves and then staining or polyurethane? or? this is not my expertise so input is appreciated.

 

[dkyuss]

Time to finalize and close up my transmission/transfer case rebuild.
Got my snap ring!

Unfortunately, should have gone with my gut feeling and gone with the #4 instead of #5 as it was too tight.

My .010" shim was tight behind the snap ring so I almost expected this.... The snap ring would not engage the groove.

A little overkill,

but gave that little bieatch a quick grind.

Finished off at .1035" thick, fits tight and snug! All tolerances (2nd and 3rd gear) are bang on in the middle of spec and I am done! Happy and itching to get it installed!

And some driving tunes (and a hint into the inspiration to my odd username)

 

[dkyuss]

Some final thoughts.

As you can see from my pics, I have a far less than ideal 'shop' to work in, with gravel floor and clutter of family living... Cleanliness is key on a project like this, bearings do not like rocks! I cant tell you how many times I cleaned everything to keep things clean!

Although this is not an amateur job, I hope this inspires a mechanically minded person to take on their own rebuild and buy/make what they need to do it. This is not rocket science and it is my first attempt at anything this involved in the automotive world (although I have lots of industrial equipment experience).

As my Dad would have said, "it doesn't need to be perfect, it just has to be right!"

The FSM (linked at the beginning of my rebuild) is a must. Read it and follow step by step and it is fairly straight forward and clear.

Below is a pic of some of the 'specialty' tools used for this task.
Of notable mention is the parts washer, a must have!
and my 2x6" glued and screwed press (using a 1500# bottle jack), both not pictured.

Accurate measuring tools
Torque wrenches (I needed 3 different units to get the full range/scale required)
pullers, multiple and some customized
Lock ring pliers
Hone (depending how deep you get into the rebuild)
assortment of correctly sized pipes to push bearings as required
A good measuring shim set.

Even if you have to buy all these tools just for this job, still much cheaper than payin someone else (and you get to keep the tools)! Plus you know if its done right, and I mean everything..... all the details! No one to blame! True satisfaction!

 

[hj 60]

Congratulations for this result and I might have to rebuild my 5th gear whine so it is very inspiring to see what you did, thanks for the pictures.
I can buy a good 5 gear with transfer for 850 euro so I am thinking if that would be nice to replace and then fix my 5 speed without time deadline and plenty of time to find the mentioned tools and stuff.
Printing FSM would be a start but that must be a overwhelming few hundred pages?

 

[dkyuss]

Congratulations for this result and I might have to rebuild my 5th gear whine so it is very inspiring to see what you did, thanks for the pictures.
I can buy a good 5 gear with transfer for 850 euro so I am thinking if that would be nice to replace and then fix my 5 speed without time deadline and plenty of time to find the mentioned tools and stuff.
Printing FSM would be a start but that must be a overwhelming few hundred pages?

5 speed sure would be nice, but not simple to retrofit into my 81 so 4 speed will have to do, for this cruiser. Maybe next? (yes I have been thinking already that I need a parts 60..... and maybe a 40 one day as the kids will be moving out in a couple years....)
FSM was daunting and confusing at times until I actually started taking it all apart and could understand better what I was reading.
IIRC, the http://www.serie4.it/download/h41-h42-h50-h55f.pdf manual is ~120 pages, but almost half of the manual is for the H50 trans. Only 30-40 pages for the H42/h55 and another 30 ish pages for the T-case. Of that, it is split into disassembly, inspection, and assembly. So really no too bad. Just print only the pages required!

 

[dkyuss]

And a couple more tips that I used that I don't think have been mentioned specifically.

Good reads for anyone thinking of going through this;
some h55f and split case tech
H42 Transmission, Tcase, eBrake Rebuild in a '76 FJ40`


On assembly, lube EVERYTHING. There should be no dry metal to metal contact ANYWHERE. All bearings and journals, all seals and syncros and springs etc. before pressing or installing. Pressing a dry bearing onto a dry shaft can (Murphy prevails) gull and score shaft/bearing causing nightmares. Dry shafts/splines through a seal can damage things, so care and attention is needed at times.

Heat can be your best friend on a job like this. These bearings and shaft diameters are designed with interference fits. Right from factory, shaft may be 40.006mm(1.5750") and bearing ID may be 39.998mm(1.5747"). Thus why the need for the press or exotic pullers.
Wise use of thermal expansion greatly helps. When removing bearings, you want to hit the INNER RACE with intense but quick (mapp is better then propane) heat seconds before torquing up your puller. Attempting to achieve about 200-300F temp change between the shaft and bearing race. Nothing should get too hot (never red or even close.... you will warp or bend a shaft!) the idea is to get the bearing race to grow microns while the shaft stays at or below room temp.
Prepping the transmission input bearing for removal. spin (never heat just one spot) and heat like this for about 20 seconds. Then IMMEDIATELY press before the heat can transfer into the shaft (and make it grow as well).

Same concept on install except I used an old toaster oven bought at the thrift to preheat bearings to 250F for 20 mins prior to install. As these are new, I do not want to burn factory oils/grease or cause any damage so no torch on install. Keep shafts cold, get everything set up and then grab your hot bearing and often it will drop right on, minimal or no force required and then seconds later, tight as can be as the heat is transferring out of the bearing and into the shaft until equal and interference fit it achieved. Key is to have everything set up and ready, and be quick.

 

[dkyuss]

Transmission handle is kinda done...
T case, on its way.
Some more pics of course.

 

[TLC Norway]

That's uber cool!

 

[M8ker]

See, you didn't need my input.. You did what works best for you. You learn by mistakes and try again if it doesn't come to you the first, second or third time. Keep up the good work.

 

[cruisermatt]

What did you use as your assembly lubrication?

 

[dkyuss]

That's uber cool!

Definitely more fun than knuckles and c-channel repairs! Though not as satisfying as the Tcase/Tranny.

See, you didn't need my input.. You did what works best for you. You learn by mistakes and try again if it doesn't come to you the first, second or third time. Keep up the good work.

Oh yes, but many attempts can be skipped with some base knowledge. I ended up burning the knuckes with a torch, then used 2 different stains, a natural and gunstock, then two coats of tung oil. I may end up doing a bit more sanding as I see some imperfections..... and it bugs me!

What did you use as your assembly lubrication?

I used a moly EP grease on most everything (tube visible in one or more prior pics of the rebuild and is the grey/brown goo you see in many pics), and gear oil when recommended by the FSM (bushings and needle bearings). Once assembled, but before shift cover/PTO inspection cover in place, I emptied a can of brake clean in each, while cranking (by hand)the input in reverse gear and Tcase engaged(everything is spinning). Just to ensure no dust etc stuck on anything and drained out the drain holes of each case. Then sprayed everything liberally with seafoam 'deep creep' while turning again. Then dribbled some gear oil while turning. (maybe overkill but it cant hurt!)
Everything drained and plugged/covered waiting for install now with new fluids.



So should I re-attach the T-case Tranny breather hose now that all is rebuilt? Why or why not?

 

[dkyuss]

Ok, little make work project, but 2nd time is better!

I re sanded these shifters, smoothing out a couple places I got lazy on the first time around.

Took out the torch for some accents

A coat of 'gunstock' stain

And some REAL tung oil this time! MINIWAX TUNG OIL 'FINISH' is crap, and from what research I can find probably contains no tung oil at all (likely boiled linseed oil)! This circa 1850 is the real stuff, although still diluted with solevent, but at least it IS tung oil in the can. Works so much better!

So smooth and soft in the hand. I am finally content with these.

So enough playing. On to the dreaded body mounts I have been putting off.

 

[dkyuss]

Starting at the front.....

I dont think this should be welded. lol. Fun times ahead!

Oh, Thats why!

Ok.. So step one will be making/finding a new bottom rail to support the front end of my truck!
She's showing her true colours..... and the horrible PO paint job. Wonder what else its hiding !

 

[Cruising Canuck]

She's definitely been ridden hard and put away wet.
I would just get a clean front clip from California, it's only a few bolts to replace

 

[hj 60]

I welded mine in the car for the road check, upside down terrible, so If you can remove it by moving a few bolts it will be way easier.

Because the fender was rusted to I cut that off and had access to weld, then welded a piece of fender in,

I wish I had removed it but did not know it was easy bolted, might have to do it later again, good luck with this next task.