Finally Bought my first CRUISER! (1 Viewer)

[hj 60]

Nothing belongs in there, if the filter fits no problem to use it, maybe someone lost the cap key or it was frozen, or fuel theft, all your base are...

 

[TLC Norway]

Good job!
I think you're good to go with the spring seats. I don't think the gap between the leaves and the boys bolts matter, as long as you have center pin located and working.

I would consider oiling the frame instead, since it's not a frame-off resto. As long as you have the body on there, you won't get things clean and paint ready. With oil (fluid film or other thin penetrating creeper oil) you can spray it on everything underneath, and it will protect and look good.
The thin stuff will creep between brackets, rubber, bolts and penetrating everything like a mad man. Everything will be protected, and easier to wrench on.
And later on, you can steam everything off and paint it if you want to.

It's just my .2 cents [emoji14]

 

[dkyuss]

So I ended up wire wheeling the fuel tank to prep for paint. Lots of good metal left!

Put some lacquer thinner in the tank and gave it a good shake and what a ya know.... a few more pieces of dirt/gravel. Not sure how it got in there (definitely not from my crush rock driveway, I am sure of this, different rocks and I have been very diligent on maintaining its cleanliness) originally but it is all coming out.

I propped it up and took the garden hose and pushed/flushed everywhere I could get it. More gravel, and another identical aluminum piece as before came out before I was happy that it was as clean as I could get it.

Every remaining particle and puddle got vacuumed away.

And then a heat gun on low for about 2 hours taking turns in all of its holes (get your mind out of the gutter ).... the whole tank was nice and warm to the touch. Dry inside and out. You could see water vapor escaping for about 20-30 mins.

And then paint of course.

I had about 1/3 of a can of POR15 that had already been opened a couple times, and so I painted until I had no more. Man this stuff goes far! I painted the tank, the rest of the frame that I could see, as well as all the cross members that are supported on body mounts, and enough to cover everything above the tank!

Although I know this is not ideal, definitely not a frame off level restoration, most got a quick wire wheel, all got pressure washed/degreased/prep and readied prior to paint and I am hoping this will minimize any further rusting. I will of course be oiling everything up well before the tank goes back in.

She doesn't have to be a daily driver show room level piece, like many of your rigs, just needs to get me out exploring on the weekends and more importantly be reliable enough to get me home.

 

[dkyuss]

Tanks back in! Got er out for a rip before the sun started going down and very pleased with how she drives!

 

[dkyuss]

A glimpse of what is up and coming.... for my reference more than anything;

Short term
Re-torque Ubolts, 10 km 100km 1000km
Properly fix rear upper shock mounts
Stitch Weld shackle mounts to frame
Replace rubber brake lines front and rear with SS braided (already have these) / Bleed brake lines
Properly fix rear 4 body mounts (I have rubber 'pucks' wedged tight but no bolts )
Recheck wheel Alignment
Increase/tweak fuel setting
Paint grill
Check compression (need to get a tester)
Adjust valves
Reinstall OEM air filter

Long Term (some of it may be a pipe dream )
Fix rear tailgate mount
Clean and paint rims / new tires
Tidy interior
Bumpers, Front w/ winch and Rear w/ Ladder swingout and tire carrier
Better Stereo/speakers
CB Radio
Center console
Seat upgrade
Upgrade/Add lights
New mirrors
Begin body repairs
Install snorkel
Add intercooler to air intake
Paint (I think a lighter colour is better suited for this non AC truck in the Canadian desert)
Diff lockers
RTT

I am sure there will be more to add to this long term...

 

[TLC Norway]

Sounds like a great plan!! thats a 3B right?

 

[hj 60]

Nice to drive it again,
I did the same and would not do it now but it had to be done, now finally time for the snorkel, winch, locker: that is the fun work!

The original air filter and valves are very important so that might go up the list,

Compression you might not want to know right now, enjoy what it is

Time for a trip and some 4x4 fun , how is 4x4 in turn anyway (birfield oke?)

 

[dkyuss]

Sounds like a great plan!! thats a 3B right?

3B it is!

Nice to drive it again,
I did the same and would not do it now but it had to be done, now finally time for the snorkel, winch, locker: that is the fun work!

The original air filter and valves are very important so that might go up the list,

Compression you might not want to know right now, enjoy what it is

Time for a trip and some 4x4 fun , how is 4x4 in turn anyway (birfield oke?)

Engine runs smooth (in my non diesel owner uneducated opinion) and lots of low end torque. Not spinning tires or anything by I can happily accelerate (given correct gear) on any hill Ive encountered so far. Also my truck is as light as it will ever be at the moment with no bumpers, no gear and just me in there!
As for compression, I kinda want to know whether I got a couple years of playin or do I need to baby her for the moment?

Threw it in 4X4 yesterday and feels really good. Birfs were shot and grooved out, including shafts on seal areas so she got 30 spline longfields and new axles when I did the knuckles. Its like better than new!

Definitely planning on a few small day trips to get more comfortable and familiar with my beastie. Need new tires before I do anything too crazy.or venture too far from home but I am gaining more confidence in her everytime we get out.

Cheers

 

[dkyuss]

Got shackle mounts stitch welded to the frame for security (bolts still in place and torqued), as well as milled a 15 degree boss that was tapped for 5/8" to mount the rear upper shocks. This corrected the angle the PO set up on his mounts and forced him to use 1/2" bolts in a 14mm bushing. No wonder it clanked!


So had her out for a couple trips on some dirt road wash board, in and out of 4 low/high a few times, as well as out on the highway at 100Kms! in my 4 speed the engine at 2200 and she is loud!

I have heard a couple clinks and clanks, a few growls... all coming from transmission/transfer case area. When I got home today I threw the transfer case into neutral and I will let the video speak more words than I can...



Can this be diagnosed? Once I give it gas and the revs go up, the noise goes quiet....Should I looking for a new H42?

 

[Output Shaft]

Is there oil in it?

Obviously the sound is not good and the tranny could grenade on the hwy.

Take it to a transmission shop and let one of the techs listen to it. They won't charge you for listening to it and telling you what they think.

But no matter what, the tranny has to be dropped.

It could be the front bearing of the tranny, since that usually makes the most noise in 4th... it could also be all the bearings that got worn out from insufficient lubrication in the past (i.e. low oil level).

If the tranny needs a lot of work, it's usually the best choice to buy a brand new 5 speed since almost all the parts for the 4 speed are no longer available.

 

[dkyuss]

Is there oil in it?

Obviously the sound is not good and the tranny could grenade on the hwy.

Take it to a transmission shop and let one of the techs listen to it. They won't charge you for listening to it and telling you what they think.

But no matter what, the tranny has to be dropped.

It could be the front bearing of the tranny, since that usually makes the most noise in 4th... it could also be all the bearings that got worn out from insufficient lubrication in the past (i.e. low oil level).

If the tranny needs a lot of work, it's usually the best choice to buy a brand new 5 speed since almost all the parts for the 4 speed are no longer available.

Ya there was oil in it 10 days ago when I installed the bypass breather hose. I will double check in the AM.

Being an 81' I understand I cant just put in an H55?

It doesn't make this noise normally when driving or when under load. I can only make this noise with transfer case in neutral and more so when it is warm.
If I bring the RPMS up the noise virtually goes away.

Ill have to go back and read my first couple posts to be sure but I think the transfer case was low on oil when I got her, tranny was old and yucky but full.

 

[Engineerscake]

I love to see these projects coming along.

Gives me the faith that I can do it when thine comes.

 

[hj 60]

I dont know if you have replaced the bushing under the shifter (5 speed has a problem shifting when they are worn)

If this bearing is bad it seems easy to replace, if money is not around I would not go for an expensive 5 speed but maybe they are easy to find.

 

[dkyuss]

After reading this I was assuming the transmission input bearing
FJ60 clutch or transmission issue?
http://www.skf.com/binary/57-61883/TT08_003.pdf



So I pulled fill plugs, and both transmission and transfer case are full. Pulled the drains to find metal in both. Oil was NEW 400 kilometers ago.

Transfer case plug - Big metal pieces, like broken bearing balls. I wasn't expecting this. Maybe not the transmission input bearing.

Transmission plug was covered in fine metallic black soup.

Needless to say, I am dropping both cases and have lined up a used replacement. I can then decide if I want to rebuild a unit for spare or just run it as is...

More to come.

 

[dkyuss]

Well, that part is done.

So what else should I do while in here? I will inspect clutch components tomorrow.
As my new powertrain is unknown age, when I pick it up tomorrow I plan on checking or replacing the following;
Transfer case to transmission seal
Check thrust clearances through inspection window
Clean breather valves
Inspect clutch, throw-out and pilot bearings
Engine oil seal
Drive shaft ujoints
?????

 

[dkyuss]

I love to see these projects coming along.

Gives me the faith that I can do it when thine comes.

I'm glad you are enjoying the show! Pleased to pass on some 'inspiration'.

I dont know if you have replaced the bushing under the shifter (5 speed has a problem shifting when they are worn)

If this bearing is bad it seems easy to replace, if money is not around I would not go for an expensive 5 speed but maybe they are easy to find.
View attachment 1148482

I wish it was just that bushing! I would love the H55F but a little out of my $$$ league. One day........

 

[TLC Norway]

And free mod: cut the transfer shifter bracket so that you can shift direcly right into 2LO!

Put in the donor case and see how it runs, save the pennies for a 5spd later on.

Good job!

 

[dkyuss]

And free mod: cut the transfer shifter bracket so that you can shift direcly right into 2LO!

Put in the donor case and see how it runs, save the pennies for a 5spd later on.

Good job!

Thanks for the tip! I will do!

So busy weekend crawling under the beast! My mind is at ease now though cause I know exactly what is wrong.
And my confidence in this rig is improving......

Some oil definitely leaking in the bell housing. Almost a mix of gear oil and engine oil. Very thick and full of fibers.............

This rear main seal will be replaced along with all others I can get at in the tranny/transfer case. Pilot bearing feels like new, but I will probably replace while Im in here....

Throw out or release bearing has some play in it (couple tenths of a mm). Not sure if it should have the groove or not??? You can see some wear on the contact area on the pressure plate. How loose should the bearing housing be on the fork? Should it slop around on the two metal u-pins? It wants to stay near center but very gently it will move around. I need your help here guys, even though I am mechanically competent, I have never got myself this deep inside the guts of a vehicle so have no frame of reference as what is 'normal'. Thoughts please!

1.37mm depth to rivets... FSM says .3mm so technically Im good for awhile..... but im in here now so.... what would this measure new?

And transmission actually looks really good inside, I think.
It shifted very well, other than shifters a little sloppy (I believe just linkage that I will fix before reinstall), it shifted like I would expect new. Never pops out of gear, never grinds, really nice. The very fine 'mud' that came off the plug I am thinking may have just been because of the high power neodymium magnet I put on it cleaned the case as although transmission was full of oil when I got it, it was very black. I will have to print off pages in the FSM to check thrust clearances but am thinking I will put this transmission back in. Input, idler and outputs feel tight, tighter than the replacement unit I have picked up that was fully operational when pulled.

 

[dkyuss]

So the gremlins are in the output bearings of the transfer case, all of them are shot. At first I didn't think this made sense as I had the transfer case in neutral.... but getting a grasp of how the power transfer occurs I realize that all the gears are spinning in the transfer case in neutral, even on the output, and so here we are. Much smarter now than I was before.

Rear transfercase output shaft

Worn outer race on the rear output shaft

Close up of gear... They all look pretty good in my opinion

And here it is....

 

[TLC Norway]

Throw out or release bearing has some play in it (couple tenths of a mm). Not sure if it should have the groove or not??? You can see some wear on the contact area on the pressure plate. How loose should the bearing housing be on the fork? Should it slop around on the two metal u-pins? It wants to stay near center but very gently it will move around. I need your help here guys, even though I am mechanically competent, I have never got myself this deep inside the guts of a vehicle so have no frame of reference as what is 'normal'. Thoughts please!

Nice how you just ripped everything apart, there's really nothing in there worth beeing afraid of.

Regarding the slop on the fork, the metal pins just lets it hang onto the fork. There will be slop, but not much when the throwout bearing is also resting on the input shaft flange, see? if the bearing is good, you can clean it and reuse it. But there is a chance it will seize later on.
Depending on your future plans, i'd consider getting a complete clutch kit.
how deep are the grooves on the forks of the pressure plate?
Is your flywheel looking good? no blue/burnt spots? (candidate for resurfacing)
Pilot bearing is cheap, change it. the tranny input bearing was bad, right?

There should be a stamp on the transfer case, near top and close to the side pto cover.
A few letters/nubers. it will tell you what year and model the case is.
Is there a 34 or 38mm idler shaft in the case? probably a 34, but you never know if someone swapped something before.
You'll need a transfer service kit. i got mine from george (orangefj45) and everything was spot on.
i think he also can supply whatever else you might need.