Builds dougbert's future 350 swap: How much torque is too much? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter norsk
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norsk
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- Thread starter
- #522
my to-do-list IS getting shorter, so yeah, it will be ready to go soon. Unfortunately, going to california ALL next week, starting on Saturday, so will have to wait until after T-Day
Pic of the exhaust pipe below the fuel pump before and after the modification:
Before
![IMG_20141118_103537_150[1].jpg](data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg xmlns%3D'http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg' width='1280' height='720' viewBox%3D'0 0 1280 720'%2F%3E "IMG_20141118_103537_150[1].jpg")
After
Gained some space, but will still put in heat shielding
dougbert
Pic of the exhaust pipe below the fuel pump before and after the modification:
Before
After
Gained some space, but will still put in heat shielding
dougbert
I thought walker or someone made a crossover from the passenger side of the exhaust, that basically mated the two manifold together and then routed back to the rear on the drivers side of the engine? The pipe came from the passenger side exhaust manifold and crossed (I blieve it crossed kind of under the center line of the oil pan to then mate with the passenger side exhaust manifold.
Yeah...that exhaust pipe is sitting too close to your fuel pump...in my view. Vapor lock and potential fire hazard might be some issues to mitigate.
I don't recall but I think the exhaust pipe I'm thinking of was an OEM setup of some model 1/2 ton GM pickup back in the 70's...not sure this crossover pipe I'm thinking of will work with those manifolds..
You might want to consider some re-work to get that exhaust away from your fuel pump and hoses. That looks close even after the mod...in the pics.... if you ever have a fuel pump leak or hose leak..you have problems .... Not critiquing the work...just thinking on safety.
Yeah...that exhaust pipe is sitting too close to your fuel pump...in my view. Vapor lock and potential fire hazard might be some issues to mitigate.
I don't recall but I think the exhaust pipe I'm thinking of was an OEM setup of some model 1/2 ton GM pickup back in the 70's...not sure this crossover pipe I'm thinking of will work with those manifolds..
You might want to consider some re-work to get that exhaust away from your fuel pump and hoses. That looks close even after the mod...in the pics.... if you ever have a fuel pump leak or hose leak..you have problems .... Not critiquing the work...just thinking on safety.
http://www.amazon.com/Walker-40295-Y-Pipe/dp/B000C938XA
It looked something like this...but it basically ran under the engine oil pan kind of in a straight line or close to that with the exit of the manifolds...of course it probably all depends on the manifolds used as to what will work.
It looked something like this...but it basically ran under the engine oil pan kind of in a straight line or close to that with the exit of the manifolds...of course it probably all depends on the manifolds used as to what will work.
norsk
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- Thread starter
- #525
My RAM Horns are 2" outlet and I found out that there are several types of RAM Horn manifolds. I found one I liked and there is a supply of them out there (some nearly 50 years old) and I will get spares for good measure.
The manifold forms the foundation for the front pipe. I had looked at formed pipes, but just could not get enough information without ordering several and then playing with them. So I went with the custom work.
As for the pipe under the fuel pump, I am intent on mitigating the issue and protect the pump and shield both pipe and pump. Its a path I am going down and on the rig, it looked like the best way to go. With the extra space, that will allow for better wrap, shielding and air flow.
We shall see. And yes, thanks for the observation and option
dougbert
The manifold forms the foundation for the front pipe. I had looked at formed pipes, but just could not get enough information without ordering several and then playing with them. So I went with the custom work.
As for the pipe under the fuel pump, I am intent on mitigating the issue and protect the pump and shield both pipe and pump. Its a path I am going down and on the rig, it looked like the best way to go. With the extra space, that will allow for better wrap, shielding and air flow.
We shall see. And yes, thanks for the observation and option
dougbert
norsk
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- Thread starter
- #526
Filled the rig with coolant after fixing the "open holes". The next day I came back and found coolant on the top of a plastic tub I just placed under the front of the rig.
Found that there was a leak, on the top of the bottom rad hose, dripping out. Tightened the worm clamp, but didn't stop it. Put a second worm clamp on the fitting and tightened both down. Still a very slow drip leak from the top of the hose.
Anyone seen this type before? I think the draw opening on the pump is round without blemish, but will have to drain and remove hose to inspect. Anyone with an idea?
On another task, while examining the Spectre Universal Throttle kit, noticed I needed to order their manual transmission Spectre bracket, so that is in flight here. Will be gone all next week to california for family time, so no rig work. All buttoned up with smaller tarps against the snow that is coming this Sat/Sunday.
Close to startup, but some minor fixes (above) first. Exhaust looks good, fluids filled. Need to prime oil galleys and fuel line.
Did connect up the 190W solar panel and charge controller to the P2 battery to ensure it is topped off and ready to fire - AFTER thanksgiving.
dougbert
Found that there was a leak, on the top of the bottom rad hose, dripping out. Tightened the worm clamp, but didn't stop it. Put a second worm clamp on the fitting and tightened both down. Still a very slow drip leak from the top of the hose.
Anyone seen this type before? I think the draw opening on the pump is round without blemish, but will have to drain and remove hose to inspect. Anyone with an idea?
On another task, while examining the Spectre Universal Throttle kit, noticed I needed to order their manual transmission Spectre bracket, so that is in flight here. Will be gone all next week to california for family time, so no rig work. All buttoned up with smaller tarps against the snow that is coming this Sat/Sunday.
Close to startup, but some minor fixes (above) first. Exhaust looks good, fluids filled. Need to prime oil galleys and fuel line.
Did connect up the 190W solar panel and charge controller to the P2 battery to ensure it is topped off and ready to fire - AFTER thanksgiving.
dougbert
Doug
I have used two clamps on and off through the years. Try a wire style clamp instead of the worm type they seem to seal better. The worm - screw type don't really clamp well.
John
http://www.tractorpart.com/john_deere_cooling_hose_clamp.htm
I have used two clamps on and off through the years. Try a wire style clamp instead of the worm type they seem to seal better. The worm - screw type don't really clamp well.
John
http://www.tractorpart.com/john_deere_cooling_hose_clamp.htm
norsk
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- Thread starter
- #528
Okay John I ordered 2 of those clamps last week while enjoying 75+ degree weather in San Clemente California for the entire week.
My current clamps are still leaking, but slowly. Looking forward to the new clamps and see how they do.
Came back from Calif on Sunday and then Mondary morning went out and put on some heat shielding that came while I was away on the fuse box (just in case).
Also wrapped the exhaust under the fuel pump with the following: http://www.ebay.com/itm/201230526982 For the future when the ebay link fails, here is a pic
pic of final wrapped exhaust pipe (will add some worm clamps):
pic of wrapped PS return hose:
And ordered some more wrap for some other exhaust hotspots. I did get some steel "zip" ties and installed them, but was wondering if a worm clamp would work as well on the exhaust wraps. I might have gotten some "cheap" steel ties, as they didn't hold a grip tightly after tightening them as well as I would have liked. That behavior probably is what Output Shaft was referring to in post #501.
Still some tasks to do (like getting the throttle linkage setup properly) from the list in post #4 prior to startup. Some rain/snow tonite and tomorrow, yet saturday looks clear for some serious damage to that TODO task list.
dougbert
My current clamps are still leaking, but slowly. Looking forward to the new clamps and see how they do.
Came back from Calif on Sunday and then Mondary morning went out and put on some heat shielding that came while I was away on the fuse box (just in case).
Also wrapped the exhaust under the fuel pump with the following: http://www.ebay.com/itm/201230526982 For the future when the ebay link fails, here is a pic
pic of final wrapped exhaust pipe (will add some worm clamps):
pic of wrapped PS return hose:
And ordered some more wrap for some other exhaust hotspots. I did get some steel "zip" ties and installed them, but was wondering if a worm clamp would work as well on the exhaust wraps. I might have gotten some "cheap" steel ties, as they didn't hold a grip tightly after tightening them as well as I would have liked. That behavior probably is what Output Shaft was referring to in post #501.
Still some tasks to do (like getting the throttle linkage setup properly) from the list in post #4 prior to startup. Some rain/snow tonite and tomorrow, yet saturday looks clear for some serious damage to that TODO task list.
dougbert
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Doug
I have used radiator hose clamps on header wrap on motorcycles in the past, they worked until they rusted. I have also used bailing wire to tie the loose end in place. No finesse, no style, just wrap the wire around it and twist the wire ends together. It held up, too.
John, (sunny and 78 in Fla today)
I have used radiator hose clamps on header wrap on motorcycles in the past, they worked until they rusted. I have also used bailing wire to tie the loose end in place. No finesse, no style, just wrap the wire around it and twist the wire ends together. It held up, too.
John, (sunny and 78 in Fla today)
norsk
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- Thread starter
- #531
Added some pics in post 528
Put the carb back on and connected it up again, then worked on the throttle linkage.
Got the Spectre throttle bracket last week as well and attempted to install but had a brace too long to reach the bolt hole, so trimmed the bracket and it fit fine.
Encountered a problem with the set screw for the cable end on the carb, in that the Allen insert stripped and could not get the screw out. Finally used a left-handed drill and "drilled-unscrewed" it out easily. Found it was a M5 set screw so got a better and longer one. Cut the throttle cable housing to fit from bracket to firewall and had to leave it at that for the day (gotta work sometime today or the boss wonders about me).
Spectre 2418 Chrome Universal Adjustable Throttle Cable Bracket 2BBL, 4BBL Carb, manual transmission
Spectre 2431 Braided Universal Throttle Cable
dougbert
Put the carb back on and connected it up again, then worked on the throttle linkage.
Got the Spectre throttle bracket last week as well and attempted to install but had a brace too long to reach the bolt hole, so trimmed the bracket and it fit fine.
Encountered a problem with the set screw for the cable end on the carb, in that the Allen insert stripped and could not get the screw out. Finally used a left-handed drill and "drilled-unscrewed" it out easily. Found it was a M5 set screw so got a better and longer one. Cut the throttle cable housing to fit from bracket to firewall and had to leave it at that for the day (gotta work sometime today or the boss wonders about me).
Spectre 2418 Chrome Universal Adjustable Throttle Cable Bracket 2BBL, 4BBL Carb, manual transmission
Spectre 2431 Braided Universal Throttle Cable
dougbert
Last edited:
norsk
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- Thread starter
- #532
Well, success AND failure today on the throttle:
Here is the universal throttle kit I am using:
Got the old gas pedal off, and cut the rod that went into the engine compartment via the firewall via the ribbed oval boot.
Drilled a hole in the upper part of the pedal just below where the hand throttle attaches at the very top.
And the Y connector (just below the allen tool in the pic) attached beautifully with the pedal stroke arm.
Cut the braided cable housing to fit between the OEM bracket on the carb (which works better than the Spectre bracket - oh well) and the firewall.
Was attaching the firewall connector (bottom of pic) and was careful because it is Aluminum. Secured it snug but not tight, but could not get the 14mm socket
off of the end nut. It was wedged good. Did more push to get it off and snapped the threaded part - darn. Won't use a socket next time. Ordered new kit.
http://www.amazon.com/Spectre-Performance-2431-Braided-Throttle/dp/B0008G5FZ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417816418&sr=8-1&keywords=spectre 2431
Was just about to set and form the cable length, but that has to wait now. Won't be starting tomorrow. I guess I could without a pedal throttle and just use a string tied to the carb and thread thru firewall to car seat. Mmmmmm.
One issue is the old throttle linkage OVAL hole in the firewall. I could reverse the old oval ribbed boot and fill it with silicone. Searched for oval 30mmX45mm rubber plugs, but came up with nothing.
Need to cover that hole with something.
searched the forums, but didn't come up with much that was useful.
dougbert
Here is the universal throttle kit I am using:
Got the old gas pedal off, and cut the rod that went into the engine compartment via the firewall via the ribbed oval boot.
Drilled a hole in the upper part of the pedal just below where the hand throttle attaches at the very top.
And the Y connector (just below the allen tool in the pic) attached beautifully with the pedal stroke arm.
Cut the braided cable housing to fit between the OEM bracket on the carb (which works better than the Spectre bracket - oh well) and the firewall.
Was attaching the firewall connector (bottom of pic) and was careful because it is Aluminum. Secured it snug but not tight, but could not get the 14mm socket
off of the end nut. It was wedged good. Did more push to get it off and snapped the threaded part - darn. Won't use a socket next time. Ordered new kit.
http://www.amazon.com/Spectre-Performance-2431-Braided-Throttle/dp/B0008G5FZ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417816418&sr=8-1&keywords=spectre 2431
Was just about to set and form the cable length, but that has to wait now. Won't be starting tomorrow. I guess I could without a pedal throttle and just use a string tied to the carb and thread thru firewall to car seat. Mmmmmm.
One issue is the old throttle linkage OVAL hole in the firewall. I could reverse the old oval ribbed boot and fill it with silicone. Searched for oval 30mmX45mm rubber plugs, but came up with nothing.
Need to cover that hole with something.
searched the forums, but didn't come up with much that was useful.
dougbert
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I just put the boot back in and left it.
Yup, me too.
me three
norsk
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- Thread starter
- #536
okay, me four - though I did get some silicone and filled the damaged rib hole and then filled the tip where the pedal shaft used to be. I want it water tight.
Had fewer hours than I wanted today on the truck, but was able to prime the engine oil galleys with the priming tool while rotating the engine two revolutions.
Put 12 gallons of premium fuel in the tank, primed the fuel line upto the filter.
Then turned the key..............................starter spun but no joy in that the solenoid failed to engage and did NOT put the gear into the flywheel. Okay, will pull the starter and verify, check, fix, replace.
Added some PS fluid and attempted to bleed the brakes with a self-bleeder bottle. Left rear, right rear, then left front and then I notice dripping ----- from the MC at the bowl/MC connection. MMMM, I will replace the MC as well - did it once before with a Tacoma MC. I have read the T100 MC is a good selection.
Great weather here, high 50s and mostly sunny, but the sun goes to bed at 4:30pm
dougbert
Had fewer hours than I wanted today on the truck, but was able to prime the engine oil galleys with the priming tool while rotating the engine two revolutions.
Put 12 gallons of premium fuel in the tank, primed the fuel line upto the filter.
Then turned the key..............................starter spun but no joy in that the solenoid failed to engage and did NOT put the gear into the flywheel. Okay, will pull the starter and verify, check, fix, replace.
Added some PS fluid and attempted to bleed the brakes with a self-bleeder bottle. Left rear, right rear, then left front and then I notice dripping ----- from the MC at the bowl/MC connection. MMMM, I will replace the MC as well - did it once before with a Tacoma MC. I have read the T100 MC is a good selection.
Great weather here, high 50s and mostly sunny, but the sun goes to bed at 4:30pm
dougbert
So close............
Doug make sure you have 12 vdc at the solenoid before you drop the starter. Could be you grabbed the wrong wire.....
Could happen to anyone. Even a guy in Florida.
Could happen to anyone. Even a guy in Florida.
norsk
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #539
Doug make sure you have 12 vdc at the solenoid before you drop the starter. Could be you grabbed the wrong wire.....
Could happen to anyone. Even a guy in Florida.
will verify. Yet, I have a size 4 wire running from battery to stud on starter directly.
The activate wire is plugged into the tang on the starter. But it was dusk and I was tired and didn't want to get under there
with a flashlight, etc, etc.....
Jokenring, yes so close to at least spinning it. I have had it at TDC on piston #1 for a long time and didn't want to spin it until I primed the oil and attempted to start it.
Also will pick up a new MC on monday
thanks all
dougbert
norsk
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #540
Success! I have a throttle now. Finally. As mentioned before, I went back to the OEM throttle bracket instead of the Spectre bracket. Stronger in my opinion.
Ordered some metric E clips because no SAE would fit on the tang where the cable end holds the throttle. So, the kit of E clips came yesterday and I found a good fit which holds the end just fine:
Cable entering firewall (old throttle boot, reinstalled with some silicone filling most of the boot and hole damage on the bottom side):
Pedal reinstalled
New cable kit connected to the upper part of the pedal. Manual throttle control at the top, which also holds the pedal from hitting the firewall due to the pedal spring. Since I cut off the rod that went out the rubber boot, there is no "stop" point. Maybe I should have left the rod, but I didn't like it swing in the wind. Throttle cable has lithium grease on it, inside and on both ends, as well as various pivot points in the whole linkage:
And WOT of the pedal ( I might spin that Bolt Stop up a bit so as not to strain things too much):
Ordered some metric E clips because no SAE would fit on the tang where the cable end holds the throttle. So, the kit of E clips came yesterday and I found a good fit which holds the end just fine:
Cable entering firewall (old throttle boot, reinstalled with some silicone filling most of the boot and hole damage on the bottom side):
Pedal reinstalled
New cable kit connected to the upper part of the pedal. Manual throttle control at the top, which also holds the pedal from hitting the firewall due to the pedal spring. Since I cut off the rod that went out the rubber boot, there is no "stop" point. Maybe I should have left the rod, but I didn't like it swing in the wind. Throttle cable has lithium grease on it, inside and on both ends, as well as various pivot points in the whole linkage:
And WOT of the pedal ( I might spin that Bolt Stop up a bit so as not to strain things too much):
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