Builds dougbert's future 350 swap: How much torque is too much? (1 Viewer)

[norsk]

The Snow and cold arrived last night. Hit 15 F this morning.
Snow expected on Saturday, which is when I planned to work on the rig some. Bunch of small stuff.

But we have Monday setup to get the exhaust in, and do so in the barn.
I have the muffler, Y, coupler, elbow and there is pipe out there.

Need that exhaust in prior to startup, for my sanity.

and for the visually stimulated, a traffic camera picture near where the rig is:

and just 8 miles down canyon, more nice fun

big difference from the pics in prior posts
I don't mind the cold, snow, etc here in utah, but I really like a working rig to face it all!

These are some of the western portion side effects of the cold blast and snow coming down the
east side of the Rockies. I know I have it easy compared to that and the things going on in the
great lakes region.

dougbert

 

[JohninFla]

Doug
It was 79F and sunny here today.
I will think of you on Christmas, when I long for snow and cold!!
John

 

[Output Shaft]

^^^^
Re: Anyone have a lead to some GOOD straps?

All stainless steel cable ties

 

[norsk]

Those look nice. I have them on my to-get list, to hold the exhaust wrap on the driver's side. That is the only link I have, so thanks for that. Don't have any others. I am going to wrap some crushed Lava wrap there to help protect the PS pump, gear box and steering shaft. Probably over implemented, but ............

.............................
Have to ask forgiveness from wife - I have neglected her car. Swapped the rears and put on her studded tires. 1st old tire I pulled was worn on the outer edge, Big O Tire (Kelly). Mmmmm, need an alignment. The 2nd tire (BFGoodrich AT) was a "OH MY GOSH! THAT IS NOT GOOD!" The tire had a bald spot, caused by a 6 inch long bubble under the tread. I could see through some holes to the steel belt. And it was higher than the rest of the tire. The rest of the tire was still flat and good with about 30% tread left.
Geez I didn't know and haven't looked at her tires since I put the summer tires on. I put this one on to use it up. I normally use the Big-O-Tire brand.

Sure glad that that didn't blow with her driving. I don't even want to think about. I am usually VERY good at keeping her vehicle tip-top. At lease now she is on some very good shoes with rear studs. (95 Pathfinder on its last legs)
.............................

Got just a little bit of work done this morning before the 3rd snow storm came it.

Here is a picture of the DieHard Platinum P2 installed and held down by the Stainless Tray P2 mount, which I got yesterday and had to grind shorter on the box end, to allow the box door to open and close.
And yeah, I am using 1/0 marine wire there.

3 Taps on the + terminal:

1/0 gauge into the relay box for future winch lead, and for accessory leads
1/0 gauge to the alternator - 200 Amp Mean Green Alternator
4 gauge to the starter

I have some military battery post terminals, but could not find them (bought them some 3 years ago), so I ordered
some new ones coming in next week. Temporarily using some marine posts:

Positive and Negative wires to the alt:

Better shot of the Negative wire:

For reference I am following the dual battery setup at the following link: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/dual-battery-install-complete.807973/ He has a very nice graphic for the system there in post #1

Top view of the relay box, with the 2 headlight relays, and the horn relay just sitting there, not connected (tomorrows task). The 300amp and 150amp fuses are now installed. Off road light relays will also go in there. So maybe 6 total relays possible. Future 1/0 wire to dual charge controller and the 2nd battery will exit to the left along the top after connecting to the 300amp fuse.:

Picture of the Negative 'shunt' amperage sending unit. It is out of a solar project and can measure up to 500amps. I need a longer bolt to handle the several negative contacts coming to it. The bolt on the right is holding the 1/0 cable going to the battery.
The meter that goes with it I have mounted on my dash. Great to watch starting surge, and charge amounts.
The wires are:
one #4 ground cable to frame
one #4 ground to fender
one #6 to the negative buss bar in the relay box
1/0 to the alternator to ensure very good circuit to alt
future: 1/0 to the negative on 2nd battery

I want LOTS of ground, since I will be running several radios.

 

[norsk]

The dual battery with winch schematic:

The fuel filter (standard FJ60 one) connected to the protected fuel lines:

Head lights installed - partial sunny and the snow melted

Tomorrow during the storm I hope to be in the barn, and doing final tasks:

add coolant
do the horn system
test electrical circuits
double check things
prime oil pump
add Premium fuel - to be safe from bad timing
setup throttle and return springs
connect the PS oil cooler as the connectors got here today.
add PS fluid
fill the carb fuel bowl and/or prime the fuel line

Monday we do the exhaust
then maybe....maybe fire it up monday evening (got a helper in school who wants to be there for the startup)

Will need to check/set timing
and run for 20 minutes at 2000 RPM

dougbert

 

[norsk]

Got the military type battery terminals early and installed them. Much bigger.
Was also difficult to reposition the leads for them

Hurt my back so was very slow today

Did connect the horn relay in the box and connected the horn trigger wires (+/-) to the switch of the relay and taped them up cleanly.
Removed Jake's 35" tires and put my 31" tires on
Cleaned up the area of parts, trash, etc
Put a new/fresh tarp on the rig which is 12'x16' which is far more manageable than the 21'x29' monster I had. Will be able to get in and out of truck easier.
The bad back slowed me way down. Hopefully will be good to go on Monday as the rig will get its exhaust.

dougbert

 

[Output Shaft]

Take care of the back.
I've hurt mine several times working on the cruiser. Too much leaning over.
Once you tweek it, it seems like it gets tweeked a lot easier the next time.
Take care of the back.

 

[norsk]

Take care of the back.
I've hurt mine several times working on the cruiser. Too much leaning over.
Once you tweek it, it seems like it gets tweeked a lot easier the next time.
Take care of the back.

Thanks. yeah, REST today.
Most of the problem stems from a foot issue and a boot, not from TLC work, but still a back that is out, effects EVERYTHING else

dougbert

 

[norsk]

Well my achy back is still out, but I am having Jake install the exhaust, so I just sat in the soft chair (with wheels) near the warm fire (10 degrees this morning outside) in the barn. From the chair I watched Jake begin the install of the exhaust.

2" from each RAM Horn manifold to a Y and then 2.5" out back using a Flowmaster Delta 50 muffler.

Here is a pic of the passenger side exhaust going around the front just below the gap between the oil pan and the balancer. You can see the Y resting on the tranny cross member on the left:

Better closer up and with the flash. One can see the coupler below the RAM Horn's outlet on the left:

Driver's side connected to the Y and install the V-Band clamp on the passenger's side pipe
Just behind the Y is a 2.5" V-band. It is ahead of the tranny cross member and will allow for better removal when needed.

Straight 2.5" pipe down to the 6" flexible exhaust pipe to reduce stress on the pipes

Shot of the muffler hanging by wire, ready for spot welds. Once all is in place. He will disassemble all of it, and then do FULL welds on the seams outside of the vehicle which will allow for a better set of welds. Then put it all back together.

 

[norsk]

And looking over the rear diff into the outlet of the muffler

That was it for the day (monday)

Tail pipe will pass inside the two shocks, near the driver's side one, then turn and exit out in front of the left rear shackle.

(Tuesday)

Pic of the driver's side pipe from manifold to Y

I like the V-band clamps. Put one on in front of the Y on the passenger's pipe and one behind the Y. This will allow the 2 front pipes to be disassembled from the Y.

Another 4" flexible pipe on the muffler outlet, followed by the final V-band, and then the tail pipe.

Not as expensive as I thought: $17 for the 4" flex, $24 for the 6", and abt $18 for each of the V-bands. Y was $42, muffler was $102, 2" pipe was $22 for 10 ft stick while the 2.5" stick was $34.

Tomorrow I will sit again and watch jake do his magic.

Closer shot of the front pipes:

One problem jake and I noticed above was how close the pipe is to the fuel pump:

So that is being redone and another 1.5" added. The concern is that the front diff is just 7" below that pipe. Now the diff stop bump is 6", so he has lowered that pipe just over an inch. Still have concerned about that and other points of the pipe that are too close for me.

Therefore, I will be wrapping exhaust wrap at those various points and even adding some heat shielding to the effected parts (including the fuel pump). I know, probably overly concerned, but prefer to be safer instead of "oh darn it!" out in the field.


dougbert

 

[norsk]

I have to confess one old mess up that effected the new coolant on Saturday. I bought some concentrate, 1 gallon. Mixed 50/50 with water, so I have 2 gallons and start filling the radiator. I had previously checked on hoses, etc for tightness. All looked good. After 1+ gallons are in, I hear the tinkling of fluid dropping. I drop to the ground and see coolant running onto the starter. Darn. Quickly drain the radiator back into the jug, but can't capture the coolant on the ground.

First some background. Originally my block was a passenger side dipstick, but when I got the new aluminum oil pan, I verified and switched it to driver's side dip stick which is more common for the oil pan and the Fel-Pro 1 piece blue gasket. In the process, I dropped the little ledge on the block, passenger side, where the old dip stick went through. Removed 2 bolts and it was gone. Then painted the exposed area with orange paint. Well, what I didn't know was that those 1/4"-20 bolts went INTO the water jacket, and I left them open, allowing coolant to leak out. Darn.

So one thing I did do today in addition to just sitting, was to get some stainless 1/4"-20x1/2" bolts and lock washers, lubed them up with some red RTV to seal the threads in the hole and inserted and tightened them down good.

Learned some more today. But the fix was quick. Only downside was the loss of a quart or so of coolant. More Prestone needed.

dougbert

UPDATE: Pic of the plugged holes, above the starter location (which was removed to access). Will paint the bolts orange as well.

 

[norsk]

Some various pics of the exhaust

Here is a shot of the PS return line on its way out to the oil cooler in front of the AC condenser. The actual line is inside of a heater hose. I might add heat shielding to it as well:

Passenger side exhaust pipe which will be lowered 1"+

 

[norsk]

Mock up of muffler and tail pipe:

might wrap the pipe next to the shock. Prior exhaust system seems to have deformed the shock shield

 

[norsk]

Might fab up a heat shield (cookie tray) for above the muffler

Tail pipe exiting (and yeah, body work will start after power train is working)

Looking from the front (with the rig on the lift I can take better pics of how the underbody turned out)

I think that is a pretty good overkill on the pictures, but things are looking great. Jake did a great job on it.

dougbert

 

[norsk]

On the subject of the EVAP system I FINALLY understand the 2F controls. Not understanding it has bugged me for some time, and I like to understand a system prior to messing with it or changing it which I have done with the SBC install.

BVSV(1) Violet is a temperature control value.
Below 86F it is closed not allowing vacuum through the valve.
Above 86F it opens and allows intake manifold to pass to the VCV switch.

When the BVSV(1) is open, it's flowing vacuum turns "ON" the VCV switch, which then opens/allows intake manifold vacuum to draw "gas vapors - HCs (hydro-carbons)" from the charcoal canister. By so drawing the fuel vapors from the charcoal it performs a "refreshening" of the charcoal. But this only happens when the engine is warm enough.

The control air for the BVSV (on/off air) is then connected to the VCV switch port.
Vacuum for the BVSV is drawn from a ported tap of the carb.

Trigger switch is controlled by the draw from the BVSV, and input air is drawn from the air cleaner.
Switch Vacuum for the VCV is drawn from straight intake manifold vacuum.

The "third" tap on the canister is controlled by IGNITION state. When the ignition is OFF, a valve opens and allows vapor from the carb fuel bowl to pass through the canister. When ignition if ON, the valve closes. I know exactly where this IGNITION wire set is and may have a use for it in the future.

I finally read seriously the emissions manual on this subject

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ebazu2b4...gine_Emissions_Control_Repair_Manual.pdf?dl=0
page 23

Right now I simply have a fuel filter connected to my "TANK" line which used to go to the charcoal canister and the other end is just open to the air to drop on the ground. My "hole in the frame" where the old canister dumped, is now covered by my engine mount. You can see the bottom of this "fuel filter" in the last picture of the previous post. I is just to the left of the top of the differential hump.

I suppose one could use a BVSV and VCV and install on the SBC (Quadrajet carb) along with a canister and see how it effects things.
But right now, I am satisfied I have "closure" on the system as I have it. Maybe do a later review. Just wanted to document my understanding of that system.

dougbert

 

[Output Shaft]

On the subject of the EVAP system ...Right now I simply have a fuel filter connected to my "TANK" line which used to go to the charcoal canister and the other end is just open to the air to drop on the group...

Unless there is already a good plan for the tank vent, having the tank vapor line vent into some type of AFT charcoal canister (which is mounted at least as high as the original one) will reward you with:

1. No more constant nauseating smell of gasoline vapors that never go away when the engine is turned off
2. Minimization of possible gasoline siphoning through the tank vent lines if you over fill the gas tank and the gasoline expands

The original CC does more than just filter and hold gas vapors. It acts as a siphon break if liquid gasoline starts gurgling out through the vapor lines... but everyone probably already knew that...

fred

 

[norsk]

Unless there is already a good plan for the tank vent, having the tank vapor line vent into some type of AFT charcoal canister (which is mounted at least as high as the original one) will reward you with:

1. No more constant nauseating smell of gasoline vapors that never go away when the engine is turned off
2. Minimization of possible gasoline siphoning through the tank vent lines if you over fill the gas tank and the gasoline expands

The original CC does more than just filter and hold gas vapors. It acts as a siphon break if liquid gasoline starts gurgling out through the vapor lines... but everyone probably already knew that...

fred

I have a VC-120 CC I bought when I had the 2F so I could use it. The problem is that there needs to be a control system to turn on and turn off the vacuum "purge". That is what the BVSV and VCV controls do. One could just put the CC in without the controls, but that will just "fill" the charcoal with vapor and no way to refresh it.

So one needs to:
(1) install a BVSV and VCV onto one's rig, like my SBC, to control the CC. That brings up the issue of what that would do to the idle/running of the Q-Jet on my SBC. Finding a place for the BVSV would not be a problem, and the Q-Jet/manifold has some tap points for vacuum.
(2) find another non-computer control system for the CC for use on a SBC with a Q-Jet carb.

$103 for both the BVSV and VCV from toyota retail, less from our favorite local parts wizards.
BVSV(1) Violet: Part #90925-05035 $40
VCV Vacuum Control Value: Part #90925-03058 $61

Good point on the anti-siphon function as well

I don't know enough. I know more than I did on how the EVAP system worked, but I know I don't know what I don't know yet on a solution for me and mine.

Further pondering, research and even "doing"

thanks for the input, it really helps

dougbert

 

[Output Shaft]

Just know that you don't know that you forgot that you knew that EVAP Control is a relatively recent emission control scheme, and millions upon millions of old cars never heard of it.
EVAP Contol is a smog law, not a feature.

did I just say that?

fred

 

[norsk]

EVAP Control is a smog law, not a feature.

Can I use that in my sig?

 

[Output Shaft]

It's all yours!