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I'm going to test fit the doubler tomorrow to measure for drives shafts. Any guesses on lengths? I'm thinking 14" rear and 46" front.
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It's probably easiest for me to keep the stock heater. The gm water pump has provisions for heater hoseso which should be easy to plumb into the stock heater. Aesthetically, I'll have to make efforts to route the hoses properly.
It's a kit from Stealth Conversions. Probably the simplest setup out there. Pulse ring that clamps to the 4l60e output, and a stock gm sensor. The only "difficult" part was drilling and tapping for a 3/4 NF thread.
The folks @ Tom Woods thought freeway speeds wouldn't be an issue, but were pretty concerned about droop and highly recommended a center limit strap.14" will likely not like any sort of speeds..
Wow, I thought my rear was short at 22".
101" wheel base 39" front and 22" rear
I need to measure the Jeep I recently purchased. It's at 107" WB with a 350/350,Atlas 4 speed and 1ton axles. I'm guessing that the rear shaft is 24" on it. ***Edit*** Jeep is 34" rear and 38"front so it's not even worth talking about.
With the antiwrap in place along with the location of my output, the yoke isn't going to change much in relation to the axle yoke (hopefully). I know the driveshaft isn't ideal, but I've seen shorter on cj7's with automatics. The folks at Tom Woods didn't think it'd be an issue, so I'll run with their expertise on this one.I think you'll be fine, but how are you going to get the rear yoke aimed directly at the output? when I first set mine up, I aimed directly at the yoke (as Tom's suggested); then someone who is usually right said I needed to have it 1 degree down. He was not correct.... that said, mine doesn't move much because the 4 link keeps it aimed at the yoke.... with leaf springs that could be somewhat of a challenge, especially if they're a soft spring....
Still, I'm almost tempted to stop in and see the storm on Pirate that shaft would produce