Another 4-Speed Conversion Project (1 Viewer)

[Living in the Past]

Someone much more knowledgeable than me would know... but my guess is that buy the time the Toyota engineers moved the slave to the passenger side, the vacuum actuated 4WD and the dash mounted hi/lo had been eliminated (along with the 3-speed), so again I'm guessing here, but I don't think that there was ever an OEM 4 -speed with dash mounted hi/lo linkage and the clutch slave cylinder on the passenger side.

Slave cylinder would always able to mount to either side up to 1/75. The rear passenger motor mount didn't change from 3/69-7/80. The driver's side stayed the same from 3/69-1/75. My guess that is because the dash shifter was gone before 1/75. M I do know LHD 9/72+ with the radio opening the shifter would be impossible. Linkage ran where the radio opening is. Very possibly the same dash mount ended for the RHD. Believe if you inspect your three speed bellhousing you will find openings on both right and left sides. Same for the threaded holes for the clutch are pivot. Not sure when the bellhousing for the four speed changed but one one I used in my 68 can mount a clutch arm form either side.


As for the three speed transmission that was used in the some markets thru the 1982 model.

 

[Living in the Past]

Noticed your bellhousing is set up for clutch arm on either side.

The bellhousing I used must have been newer. Your has a metal trim on the left and louver on the right. Same as my three speed bellhousing. My four speed bellhousing used rubber plugs. Think I have few more four speed bellhousings would have to verify how they are set up.

 

[pb4ugo]

I think that metal vent is removable and the opening is the same as the other side.
There's a hole for the pivot ball too.

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

I mounted my slave cylinder on the drivers as well with my 4 speed on my 71 fj40. I also retained the vacuum shifter.

 

[Green Bean]

While waiting on parts…Replaced the front pinion seal and flange.

 

[Green Bean]

Some progress after a brief hiatus. Added the shims to the 4 crankshaft bearing caps and re-torqued. I have no idea if this is akin to fixing the curtains on the Titanic, but at least afterwards I can rotate the flywheel by hand, whereas before I could not.

Next, I reinstalled the oil pan (for the third and hopefully the final time).

Also I replaced the clutch fork and pivot ball.

Lastly, I started refurbishing the Hi/Lo shift linkage with a coat of Steel-It and new rod ends.

 

[Green Bean]

Today I took a page out of the playbooks of @Skreddy and @red66toy and shimmed the front motor mounts. The total shim height turned out to be .218" so I hope that provides the necessary clearance. While I was in that deep, I went ahead and changed out the front and rear motor mounts. The passenger side rear is cumbersome because the lower bolt is inside the frame rail. Making matters more difficult, the exhaust header runs right in front of the access opening.
After replacing and adding shims to the front motor mounts, the radiator was drained and removed, followed by the radiator support frame. The frame was then raised the same amount as the front motor mounts, so hopefully that will alleviate the fan hitting the shroud. (The shroud was loosened during the motor mount work to avoid damage).

Also, worked a bit more on the hi/lo linkage and planning for adding a bit of length.

 

[Green Bean]

Inching closer to installing the drivetrain. Rigged up a quick test for the vacuum 4WD actuator to make sure that it is functioning correctly. Also, installed the hi/lo shift linkage to the T-Case with the presumption that space will be limited after the T-Case is in. Zip tied it in place to hopefully keep it out of the way during the stabbing. Staked the nuts for the front and rear output shafts.

Next up: Fill radiator with Zerex Red 50/50 and fill new clutch master cylinder and gravity bleed.

 

[Green Bean]

Adjusted clutch per FSM. Looking at the Throw-out bearing pushing on the fingers of the clutch plate, it is hard for me to tell if there is enough movement. Went ahead and put in the dowels for attempting the stab. Took out the lower right dowel because it looks like there would be an interference issue with the bulge on the side of the transmission.

 

[77mustard40]

Excellent, glad it’s coming back together.

 

[peesalot]

It looks like the throw out is coming off the fingers too much when released, I set a 1/16" gap. But I see what you are saying about it not looking like enough travel to disengage.

 

[Green Bean]

Worked on mating the 4-speed/T-Case to the bellhousing. Thankfully, our son came to help. Ended up removing the passenger-side rear motor mount pucks to gain a bit of clearance at the rear crossmember.

 

[red66toy]

Worked on mating the 4-speed/T-Case to the bellhousing. Thankfully, our son came to help. Ended up removing the passenger-side rear motor mount pucks to gain a bit of clearance at the rear crossmember.

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Did you leave the pucks out or reinstall them?

 

[Green Bean]

Reinstalled. Only removed the passenger side rear because the driver's side is such a pain. It would be sooo much easier without the crossmember.

 

[Green Bean]

Tackled a bunch of small projects: Torqued the transmission bolts to 55 foot pounds; hooked up the vacuum actuator; 4WD indicator light; reverse light; parking brake; speedometer cable; lengthened and hooked up hi/lo shift linkage; and ordered Tom Woods drive shafts.

My photography skills stink, but here is a picture of the lengthened hi/lo shift linkage. Used a M8 round coupling and a short piece of stainless M8 threaded rod. Sourced both from McMaster.

 

[Green Bean]

Installed a new rubber flex hose from the clutch master to the slave and bled. (The OEM hose is NLA so I sourced a nice quality aftermarket replacement from City Racer.) Converted our 3-speed transmission hump to a 4-speed by enlarging the cutout for the floor shift. Then, installed the hump, heater hose cover, shift lever, fuel tank and front passenger seat. Hooked up the nearly empty fuel tank. Next up was starting and testing. Amazingly, it started and ran through all of the gears. No drive shafts yet so I can't do a proper road test, but (knock on wood) at least she runs and seems to engage all gears. A bonus...the vacuum shift for the 4WD works as it should. The alarm sound in the video is beacuse the Dakota Digital is sensing that there is almost no gas in the tank. (Alarm is set to go off when it is under 10%)

For the cutout I screwed a piece of wood to the back side of the hump and used a hole saw.

 

[Mark Jennings]

Installed a new rubber flex hose from the clutch master to the slave and bled. (The OEM hose is NLA so I sourced a nice quality aftermarket replacement from City Racer.) Converted our 3-speed transmission hump to a 4-speed by enlarging the cutout for the floor shift. Then, installed the hump, heater hose cover, shift lever, fuel tank and front passenger seat. Hooked up the nearly empty fuel tank. Next up was starting and testing. Amazingly, it started and ran through all of the gears. No drive shafts yet so I can't do a proper road test, but (knock on wood) at least she runs and seems to engage all gears. A bonus...the vacuum shift for the 4WD works as it should. The alarm sound in the video is beacuse the Dakota Digital is sensing that there is almost no gas in the tank. (Alarm is set to go off when it is under 10%)



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For the cutout I screwed a piece of wood to the back side of the hump and used a hole saw.

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You’ve done a tremendous amount of work and it looks like it turned out pretty awesome. Overcoming PO nightmarish issues (rear main bearing shims) and getting the 4 speed to sit correctly plus reutilizing the vacuum 4WD (the FD knob) engage and the original under dash Hi/Lo selector….you are commended for improving while preserving the heart and soul of the rig….Good Job! Almost beer:30!!!!

 

[Green Bean]

You’ve done a tremendous amount of work and it looks like it turned out pretty awesome. Overcoming PO nightmarish issues (rear main bearing shims) and getting the 4 speed to sit correctly plus reutilizing the vacuum 4WD (the FD knob) engage and the original under dash Hi/Lo selector….you are commended for improving while preserving the heart and soul of the rig….Good Job! Almost beer:30!!!!

Thanks Mark! I really appreciate it. This community is an awesome resource for a one-banana mechanic like me to be able to ride on the shoulders of others who have paved the way.

 

[77mustard40]

Thanks Mark! I really appreciate it. This community is an awesome resource for a one-banana mechanic like me to be able to ride on the shoulders of others who have paved the way.

Yeah but that's not the normal weekend wrenching, great work and congrats! It's been a couple of years since I've seen her, looking forward to the next opportunity.

 

[Green Bean]

Installed the driveshafts and took her for an inaugural 4-speed run. Shifts thru all of the gears without issue. But the speedometer isn't working. My working theory is that I need to pull the parking brake and inspect the bolts securing the backing plate. Sadly, I may have not put the short bolt in the upper left corner so it may have damaged the speedo gear or housing. So, I will need to loosen the motor mounts and lift the front of the engine in order to pull the drum to inspect and see what is going on. Dang!