Another 4-Speed Conversion Project (5 Viewers)

[Green Bean]

My tunnel didn’t fit but I did the 4 on the tree conversion. Are you going that route or with a normal shifter?

The plan: Floor shifter for trans and dash mounted lever for 4WD hi/lo.

 

[77mustard40]

Wow great progress on this endeavor, everything looks clean and is in good shape. When I refreshed my clutch it took forever because I kept running into side projects based on what I found.

 

[Green Bean]

I battled with an obstinate oil pan this morning. Looking back, it is amusing to think that as I was removing the last of the M8 bolts securing the oil pan, I was concerned about the dent in my head it was going to make when it feel on me. Turns out, my concerns were totally unfounded the oil pan was adhered to the block quite firmly. Taps with a deadblow hammer did nothing. There isn't much access for inserting a thin putty knife to try and pry things apart. Headers on the driver's side pretty much block getting anything in on that side. I found the best point of access was on the passenger side in the area sort of under the distributor. I was able to slowly work a small screwdriver in and start the separation procedure. Eventually, pay dirt. Looks like the rest of the day will be spent installing the RMS, cleaning the sump and scraping and cleaning old crusty cork gasket material and adhesive to prep the mating surfaces for reinstall. I have a new OEM gasket waiting in the wings.

 

[Green Bean]

Wow great progress on this endeavor, everything looks clean and is in good shape. When I refreshed my clutch it took forever because I kept running into side projects based on what I found.

Thank you. It is a learning process.

 

[Chungas Revenge]

If you had to “persuade” the oil pan at all, keep your eye on the welds…

 

[77mustard40]

Your bottle jack and a 2x4 from the side was my best way to separate the oil pan. Grab yourself some Felpro Snap Ups to ease installation, they are great for holding the new gasket in place.

 

[Green Bean]

Progress update: Rear Main Seal is done and oil pan is back on. The RMS was quite easy to remove and replace once the bearing cap was removed. But the 4 bolts securing the bearing cap, were barely finger tight. (Not good). The surface of the bearing cap didn't look too good to my untrained eye. But I just replaced the RMS and torqued the bolts to 87 foot pounds with red Loctite. Next, cleaned the mating surfaces for the oil pan/block. Used lots of Brake Kleen and a green Scotch Brite. Then used a light coating of Toyota black FIPG on the new gasket. Cleaned the filter for the oil sump and checked some of the other bearing cap bolts. Used Poser's method of tying the gasket in place with cotton string. Wrestling the oil pan back in place was very tedious. I used some dowel pins made from M8 bolts with the heads cut off and slots. Eventually. I think I got it secured, but I need to go back and torque all of the bolts to 84 inch pounds. (Sure hope that it doesn't leak, as I really don't want to have to do that again)

 

[Green Bean]

A few more pics:

Next up: install 4-speed flywheel, clutch and pressure plate, clutch fork, throw-out bearing and hub.

 

[77mustard40]

Looking good!

 

[Green Bean]

One step forward, two steps back. Today was largely a day of frustration.... Started with a couple of easy tasks. Emory cloth to the input shaft to allow the pilot bearing to fit smoothly. Then torqued the oil pan bolts to 84 inch pounds. Next up was installing the pilot bearing. Installed the flywheel and torqued the bolts to 60 foot pounds. Next, up was the clutch and pressure plate. But when I went to rotate the flywheel, it seemed locked up. I was concerned that I might have messed up something on the bearing cap. So, reluctantly I dropped the oil pan and removed the bearing cap. Everything looked fine. Spent another 2 hours wrestling the oil pan back and retorquing the bolts. (As it turned out, I think that I just wasn't applying enough force to rotate the flywheel. I just needed a bigger prybar) Went back to reinstall the flywheel and that is when I hit a major roadblock. While torqueing the flywheel bolts to 60 foot pounds, the last one snapped. So, removed the flywheel (again), followed by jacking up the motor so that I could remove the bellhousing so that I could drill out the bolt that broke in the crankshaft. Captain Easyout reporting for duty. Ended the day by reinstalling the bellhousing and the flywheel. But now I'm one bolt short so I'm dead in the water until hopefully tomorrow I can source a M10 x 30mm x 1.25 with a 17mm head. In the meantime, I can work on taking the vacuum and parking brake components off of the old T-Case.

Now here is a question. I have new rear motor mounts. I'm wondering if I should go ahead and install them before installing the transmission. It seems like there is so much more room to work. But I was thinking that it would be better to wait until the end since it is my understanding that during the transmission installation it is better to remove the pucks to lower the T-case to allow the parking brake clear the rear cross member. Thoughts?

 

[Living in the Past]

Did you plastigauge the bearing cap? With the oil pan off I would have taken the opportunity to do both rod and main bearings.

 

[Green Bean]

Did you plastigauge the bearing cap? With the oil pan off I would have taken the opportunity to do both rod and main bearings.

Nope. I'm sure that the bottom end could do with an overhaul but that's beyond the scope of this little project so it will have to wait.

 

[Green Bean]

Project update: Worked on taking components from the old T-Case and installing them on the new one. The vacuum actuator, parking brake, hi/lo shift bracket, and front output drive flange were all moved over to the new T-Case. While the parking brake was off, I decided to replace the cable. It is so much easier to do on the workbench rather than laying on the ground. The little retaining clip went on without putting up much of a struggle. Got the clutch, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, clutch fork, slave and master cylinders in and plumbed. But, as I wrote about in a different thread, I hit a bump in the road with the bottom-end of the engine. So until I can address that issue, the oil pan remains on the floor of the garage.

 

[Green Bean]

A few more pics

 

[Green Bean]

Clutch master & slave.

 

[Chungas Revenge]

Moving out with a purpose.!!!

Bad break on the other thread. Pulling for you.

 

[Green Bean]

On the placement of the clutch slave cylinder, I was thinking all along that it needed to move from the driver's side over to the passenger side of the vehicle. However, when I got to studying it, there was going to be an interference issue with the dash mounted hi/lo shift linkage that pivots off of the passenger-side rear motor mount. There is probably a work around, but it just seemed easier to leave the slave on the driver's side. The bellhousing appears to be setup for either. I hope that somebody will tell me if I screwed up and it needs to move over to the passenger side.

 

[red66toy]

On the placement of the clutch slave cylinder, I was thinking all along that it needed to move from the driver's side over to the passenger side of the vehicle. However, when I got to studying it, there was going to be an interference issue with the dash mounted hi/lo shift linkage that pivots off of the passenger-side rear motor mount. There is probably a work around, but it just seemed easier to leave the slave on the driver's side. The bellhousing appears to be setup for either. I hope that somebody will tell me if I screwed up and it needs to move over to the passenger side.

Nope, you can run either side.

 

[Living in the Past]

Nope, you can run either side.

The preferred side would be the passenger side away from the heat of the exhaust. But Green Bean is right because the dash mounted transfer case high low shifter is located under the dash the passenger side rear motor mount uses one of the threaded holes. That is used for the clutch slave cylinder as a pivot mount for rods used to transfer case high low. The bell housing and rear motor mount are made to the the clutch cylinder on either side but dash mount transfer case shifter prevents the passenger side from being used.

 

[Green Bean]

The preferred side would be the passenger side away from the heat of the exhaust. But Green Bean is right because the dash mounted transfer case high low shifter is located under the dash the passenger side rear motor mount uses one of the threaded holes. That is used for the clutch slave cylinder as a pivot mount for rods used to transfer case high low. The bell housing and rear motor mount are made to the the clutch cylinder on either side but dash mount transfer case shifter prevents the passenger side from being used.

Someone much more knowledgeable than me would know... but my guess is that buy the time the Toyota engineers moved the slave to the passenger side, the vacuum actuated 4WD and the dash mounted hi/lo had been eliminated (along with the 3-speed), so again I'm guessing here, but I don't think that there was ever an OEM 4 -speed with dash mounted hi/lo linkage and the clutch slave cylinder on the passenger side.