FJ40 Full Floater Axle Build (IH8C-CLIPS) (1 Viewer)

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ah yes, the one good reason to do the zj80 axle- the disc with ebrakes...I LOVE my ebrake.

That's what I was thinking. Stump, any plans for an e-brake? That would be my only hold up. It would be nice if there was a kit that used fzj80 rear hardware so the e-brake could be retained.
 
for fj40s and 55s the ebrake is not an issue...my 55 has a split case w/o brake, so the disc ebrake was welcome...
 
fzj set up would prolly make for a wider stick- IF the hubs fit the front spindles...there needs to be room for the ebrake backing plate and components...
 
The alignment bar will not keep the axle straight while welding. How you weld it determines the overall straightness.

I'm sure mr LCwizard would have some pointers on welding them on.
 
That's what I was thinking. Stump, any plans for an e-brake? That would be my only hold up. It would be nice if there was a kit that used fzj80 rear hardware so the e-brake could be retained.

I have an Orion with a t-case e-brake.
 
Ah. Well that is handy!
 
@lcwizard : Just so I am clear on this (I'm often slow on the uptake) you are talking about the flange that the outer face of the bracket lines up to (as pictured below), correct?

76vH1V4u0oXMC-r0q6gjCZHA66Of723pfl1lxroKMY46RO9D1LK3lXNEk_maq9tGfoTR_cLgS0XvBTSCO26fZWyKRLVDuqsvNMg3v8H31oZbEdT3Riqc7ZhZyn924j_d-83V5Q4eiHkI3CpRa2syPYEpMwGNHmG4Q1Y-lGg8SCOnuP5j8egdshqy9vcRcw-NZ-exeBjyZN4mjCP1-Oyik0RkPOTL7jsg6eKBFZzaJRNcVWHQ0YpblxrffY_fAqzMJYKrCSltEe6QYOI01ASzZxH2ZcdwAQngUmsMlV37z_2IWiUxcf8pqqGgAH92dD5973F6KcBbHXfLSXlw0aV5tVPXFw-UsJTd2X4N20x94EPJKQ75Z7PRPlUe5Nw5HQAPFm6QroBi5CThvQZJfudAQbchcL9TRyLeU4CehpXO0WdJISdy581mu-yB1orRjYkCzbv3hLtRDHdgqXm_vFUhGR5Ax-nIkuUlPVz-0Xj_QmxI_ladtZfkXUgBPcLthTWMXuVgIyUY8BQRUR2zOz0HKhYSrzP0TmkxkfOQBlywM1RG=s681-no

That and the fact the back of it bumps up against a machined shoulder
 
I'm now putzing around while I await delivery of my alignment pucks and TG hubs. I'll probable spend the time wire wheeling the axle, fixing some 3rd member studs and measuring stuff.
 
Still waiting on the axle alignment pucks from Kickass Offroad... and my studless hubs and spindle locks shipped today...
I'll post some pics when I get 'em.
 
I'm now putzing around while I await delivery of my alignment pucks and TG hubs. I'll probable spend the time wire wheeling the axle, fixing some 3rd member studs and measuring stuff.

Hopefully you can find some time to repost your pictures..
 
WHY AREN'T YOU DONE YET?
 
Your slow!!!

Have your Pucks come in yet!!
 
Hey now! I've never been closer...

Pucks should be here tomorrow. I gave Dean a shout earlier this week because I hadn't received my pucks yet and he admitted they forgot to get them in the mail last week and got them right out. For that, I definitely recommend Dean at Customized Rock Crawler Parts Rock Racing Suspension Components Axles & Tube Adaptors Kick Ass Offroad if you need alignment pucks for a Toyota full or semi float axle.

Another shout out for customer service: T.R at ARB USA in Renton Washington went above and beyond by scouring the warehouse and finding a discontinued part. My ARB locker was beat up from the 2 broken inner axles and I needed a new flange cap for my RD124. The flange cap has been discontinued and removed from inventory but they still have a couple laying around.

I have a 3rd housing stripped and ready to receive the carrier pucks and I will be stopping at Fastenal to pick up some 3/8 grade 8 bolts and lock nut on the way home tomorrow. I hope to have the axle mocked up with the alignment jig and tacked by the end of the weekend.
 
I didn't use an alignment bar..I trusted Toyota to have used one when they welded the ends on. Besides I learned 30 years ago when I built
a Ford 9" for my FJ40 that the factory units weren't that critical. After putting 6 lug Ford rear together and bringing it to an alignment shop
to check caster and toe, the alignment guy said "don't worry, this is straighter than 90% of the factory axles I test " If the flanges sit flat on the machined surface of the ends , you're probably fine.

So, @lcwizard how do recommend welding these? My thought is alternating 1.5" stitch welds with .035 wire in my handler 210, alternating 180* for each in pairs and alternating sides to limit the concentration of heat at each end.
 
Curious to see Daves response, but I carved a deep V, first passed in sections of about 30 degrees in the valley with a SLOW hand, moved 180* between the stitches with pauses in between. I cleaned that seam with the grinder and then made a second and third pass, with the last two passes being "next" to each other/overlapping. I used a lincoln 140 set on full hot and slo feed with .035 wire and CO2...
 
you know, we're going to want lots and lots of action shots, right?
 
Curious to see Daves response, but I carved a deep V, first passed in sections of about 30 degrees in the valley with a SLOW hand, moved 180* between the stitches with pauses in between. I cleaned that seam with the grinder and then made a second and third pass, with the last two passes being "next" to each other/overlapping. I used a lincoln 140 set on full hot and slo feed with .035 wire and CO2...

That's when you narrowed your 80 housing right? I would maybe go as far as to wrap a 2" strap of 1/8" around the weld and weld it around as well.
 

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