Smog pump rebuild bearings (1 Viewer)

[McGruff44]

The smog pump in my 78 FJ40 started making all kinds of noise. I looked for a rebuilt pump but was blown away by the outrageous prices I found. I decided to rebuild it myself. I found a link on the forum that listed bearings I needed. I spent two days just tracking the parts down. Some of the bearings part numbers listed on the old link have changed so I was unable to locate two of the bearings online. After a trip to a local bearing supply, I got all the correct part numbers. I found a single supplier online that carries all three bearings. I have listed the part numbers, quantity, price and links below. After cleaning up the pump and replacing the bearings, the pump runs like new for less that $30.
I hope this helps.

SKF 6203 2RSJEM, 1 needed, $6.71,

http://www.ebatmus.com/search.epl?Query=6203+2rsjem

Timken B-188, 1 needed, $4.19

http://www.ebatmus.com/search.epl?Query=b-188

INA SCE65, 4 needed, $2.74 each,

http://www.ebatmus.com/search.epl?Query=sce65

 

[Pin_Head]

Nice to know.

My pump puked a needle in the rear Torrington bearing out in the boonies, which siezed the pump, so I had to fix it to run my water pump. I fished out the bad needle and reassembled it and it has run fine for the last 8 years. I'm sure it won't last forever.

 

[PabloCruise]

Was the link mine?

Smog Pump Rebuild - Land Cruiser Tech from IH8MUD.com - http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/smogpump.php

Now that I read it again, it would have been cooler as a thread w/ pics, but hey - I was young, I needed the money...

 

[kellyo]

Hey, thanks for you research cuz I have to do the same thing. Should be much easier now, thanks again.

 

[Trollhole]

Anyone know if these bearing will work on a 75 2f smog pump? I ordered them anyway just because they were cheap.

 

[LCS]

Anyone know if these bearing will work on a 75 2f smog pump? I ordered them anyway just because they were cheap.

1/75-1/79 pumps are the same 17610-61010. Even the 9/73-1/75 (17610-60013) pumps are pretty much the same, just a different pulley and different pipe configuration. Main bodies are the same.

 

[Trollhole]

Good to know. I'll post some pics of the rebuild.

 

[Trollhole]

So I dove into this last night. Question. How do the little bearings on the vanes come out?

What type of grease should I use on them? Hi-temp?

Took a ton of pics will post tonight in new thread.

 

[MoCoNative]

So what about newer pumps, 60 series vintage, same bearings or different. I fear I'm on borrowed time, 217,000 + original pump

Cleaned it once and lubed the rear bearing, front I didn't have the tools at the time to press out. Still running okay though.

 

[bsevans]

The smog pump in my 78 FJ40 started making all kinds of noise. I looked for a rebuilt pump but was blown away by the outrageous prices I found. I decided to rebuild it myself. I found a link on the forum that listed bearings I needed. I spent two days just tracking the parts down. Some of the bearings part numbers listed on the old link have changed so I was unable to locate two of the bearings online. After a trip to a local bearing supply, I got all the correct part numbers. I found a single supplier online that carries all three bearings. I have listed the part numbers, quantity, price and links below. After cleaning up the pump and replacing the bearings, the pump runs like new for less that $30.
I hope this helps.

SKF 6203 2RSJEM, 1 needed, $6.71,

Atmus Products Search

Timken B-188, 1 needed, $4.19

Atmus Products Search

INA SCE65, 4 needed, $2.74 each,

Atmus Products Search

The needle bearings used in the two ’78 FJ40 smog pumps I'm rebuilding now (both were factory new smog pumps and not rebuilds) are J or SCE series drawn cup needle roller bearings. The J or SCE designator means that the needle rollers are retained with a cage. These are lower in cost than using a B series drawn cup needle roller bearing. The B series drawn cup needle roller bearing has a full complement of mechanically retained needle rollers.

The major difference between J/SCE and B drawn cup needle roller bearings is the working load rating. Here is the maximum working load for each type:
J-65 271 pounds force
B-65 676 pounds force
J–188 2100 pounds force
B-188 3810 pounds force

Clearly the B series of needle bearing with a full complement of mechanically retained needle rollers would be the preferred replacement for the factory J/SCE series of bearings. The Timken B-188 cost me $4.25 each and the Timken B-65 cost $3.52 each at the bearing house.

I’ve gone to a high temperature 800 degree no melt synthetic moly grease that has a long service life and is stable when exposed to heat and water. It is made by HUSK-ITT Corp. P/N 01103

A word of caution; most needle bearings do not come pre-lubed. What looks like grease in the bearing is in fact a protective slush which needs to be removed before you apply the grease.

The front bearing recommended by the bearing house was either the Koyo 62032RSC3B or the SKF 6203 2RSJEM. The SKF ball bearing is built to a higher tolerance than the ABEC 1 class of bearings and has a higher radial load capability than most 6203 bearings.

If you need photos of the difference between a J/SCE and B series of needle bearings, let me know and I will take and post some photos.

 

[Fast Eddy]

I’ve gone to a high temperature 800 degree no melt synthetic moly grease that has a long service life and is stable when exposed to heat and water. It is made by HUSK-ITT Corp. P/N 01103

Where'd you get it? I've found the local auto parts have a very pedestrian supply of lubricants and give me the blank stare if I want something 'exotic', like silicon lube for poly bushings.

Great thread, BTW.

 

[Trollhole]

The needle bearings used in the two ’78 FJ40 smog pumps I'm rebuilding now (both were factory new smog pumps and not rebuilds) are J or SCE series drawn cup needle roller bearings. The J or SCE designator means that the needle rollers are retained with a cage. These are lower in cost than using a B series drawn cup needle roller bearing. The B series drawn cup needle roller bearing has a full complement of mechanically retained needle rollers.

The major difference between J/SCE and B drawn cup needle roller bearings is the working load rating. Here is the maximum working load for each type:
J-65 271 pounds force
B-65 676 pounds force
J–188 2100 pounds force
B-188 3810 pounds force

Clearly the B series of needle bearing with a full complement of mechanically retained needle rollers would be the preferred replacement for the factory J/SCE series of bearings. The Timken B-188 cost me $4.25 each and the Timken B-65 cost $3.52 each at the bearing house.

I’ve gone to a high temperature 800 degree no melt synthetic moly grease that has a long service life and is stable when exposed to heat and water. It is made by HUSK-ITT Corp. P/N 01103

A word of caution; most needle bearings do not come pre-lubed. What looks like grease in the bearing is in fact a protective slush which needs to be removed before you apply the grease.

The front bearing recommended by the bearing house was either the Koyo 62032RSC3B or the SKF 6203 2RSJEM. The SKF ball bearing is built to a higher tolerance than the ABEC 1 class of bearings and has a higher radial load capability than most 6203 bearings.

If you need photos of the difference between a J/SCE and B series of needle bearings, let me know and I will take and post some photos.

How about a link to a site where I can buy the specific bearings that work the best?

Also how do you get the little bearing out? How are they retained? It looked like a little clip that had been soldered?

Thanks for all your help. I ordered the bearings in the first post. But will wait if I can get better ones. I only want to do this once.

Also one of the long square retaining spacers that hold the vain in place had cracked and broken off and fell into the flat blades of death. Anyone know where I could find these parts?

 

[Fast Eddy]

Also one of the long square retaining spacers that hold the vain in place had cracked and broken off and fell into the flat blades of death. Anyone know where I could find these parts?

I looked for those for a year. Best bet is to find a non-working core from which you can scavenge pieces.

 

[bsevans]

Where'd you get it? I've found the local auto parts have a very pedestrian supply of lubricants and give me the blank stare if I want something 'exotic', like silicon lube for poly bushings.

Great thread, BTW.

I got it at the same bearing house that I got the bearings at. They must have 2 dozen different types of grease. From the generic to fairly specialized formulas. I don't think you are going to find this type of grease at an autoparts store.

 

[bsevans]

How about a link to a site where I can buy the specific bearings that work the best?

Also how do you get the little bearing out? How are they retained? It looked like a little clip that had been soldered?

Thanks for all your help. I ordered the bearings in the first post. But will wait if I can get better ones. I only want to do this once.

Also one of the long square retaining spacers that hold the vain in place had cracked and broken off and fell into the flat blades of death. Anyone know where I could find these parts?

If you ordered the bearings in the first post then you already have the better bearing for the front and rear. The 4 vane bearings you bought will work fine. The B version should last longer due to the higher load rating. In the three smog pumps I've taken apart the vane bearing had all their needle rollers. The same could not be said for the rear bearing. I question the grease used on the factory builds. I think a lot of smog pump failures are caused by numerous stream crossings which expose the rear bearing especially to having the grease washed out causing premature failure. If you have not rebuilt yet, then you would need to decide if an additional $16 for the B-65 bearings is worth it. I made some Aluminum adapters to press out the vane bearings. I found that you need to go through one bearing to press out the other bearing. I would think that a 1/4" extension through the first bearing with a 1/4" socket with a slightly smaller OD than the 65 bearing OD and a deep socket on the other side with an ID larger than the OD of the 65 bearing should be all you need to press out and put in the bearings. Once you have the first bearing out you flip the vane over repeat the same steps. Use a high quality grease.

 

[bsevans]

How about a link to a site where I can buy the specific bearings that work the best?

The same internet bearing house in the first post sells the B-65 for $3.24.

Torrington B-65 Needle Roller Bearing

 

[bsevans]

There is one other aspect of these needle bearings that should influence your selection and I apologize for not looking at all the data. The J/SCE/B series drawn cup needle roller bearings have limiting speed (rpm) specifications. When I reviewed the bearing specifications, it became clear why Toyota used J/SCE series bearings. The B series bearings have a limit speed that is greatly reduced from the J/SCE series.

Limiting Speed in RPM
J-65 36,000
B-65 7,100
J-188 11,000
B-188 3,800

Based on some rough calculations (I measured the diameter of the crank and both smog pump pulleys with a tape measure in the vehicle (at night) at 6.25”, 5” (4 bolt) and 4.25” (3 bolt).

Circumference of/ratio of circumference
Crank 19.6”
3 Bolt 13.4”/1.5
4 Bolt 15.7"/1.25

This would give a rough RPM for the 3 & 4 bolt smog pumps at the following engine RPM.

RPM
Crank 3000 4000 5000
3 bolt 4500 6000 7500
4 bolt 3750 5000 6250


Given the RPM that a well running 2F can achieve, the use of a B-188 becomes problematic in that the limiting speed would clearly be exceeded by some on this forum. This excess speed would actually shorten the effective life of the B-188 bearing (by how much?). Maybe this is one of the reasons Toyota went to a larger diameter smog pump pulley in later build years. Given all the info, I'm going to build the units with the B series because I want the higher load range. I let you know how long they last.

 

[bsevans]

Photos of the B/J/SCE Series Needle Roller Bearings

The J/SCE series bearing is on the left and the B series bearing is on the right.

 

[PabloCruise]

Good info...

 

[capefj]

Someone asked earlier but didn't seem to get a response, but would this rebuild apply to an FJ60?