Build Woody

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Yup. Amazing where people steal pictures from.

At one point, I was going to take that rear bearing to a a bearing house and see if they could find something that would be close. Perhaps a little thicker, don't know, I never did it, mainly because I couldn't find a bearing house nearby with anyone that seemed like they had the wherewithal to do that.

Your results may vary.
 
I bought an extra smog pump for my FJ62 to send to B-Z as my truck is my daily driver. I need mine rebuilt, but want to make sure it's done right. Thoughts? Also if you have the rear bearing out, maybe talk with a rep from Timken? They brag about matching bearings...
Do keep us posted if you rebuild it? I will be watching.
Thank you!
 
MWM1 said:
I bought an extra smog pump for my FJ62 to send to B-Z as my truck is my daily driver. I need mine rebuilt, but want to make sure it's done right. Thoughts? Also if you have the rear bearing out, maybe talk with a rep from Timken? They brag about matching bearings...
Do keep us posted if you rebuild it? I will be watching.
Thank you!
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B-Z has been fine so far. This may have just been a fluke. But I've taken to rebuilding my own stuff the last few months, with some success. We'll see what happens when I call Monday.
 
@majdomo Hoe many miles on your BZ pump? The instruction sheet they sent me when I had them do a rebuild several years ago said that it could make chirping or banging noises for 500 miles, but it actually went on for close to 1000. My pump ended up failing after about four years, although ATF was leaking on it from the PS pump so I’m guessing it was my fault it died. It did make some pretty awful noises at the end, for about a week right before it gave up. It was only ever on start up though - a horrible metal scrape/shrieking sound. It would do it when I turned the key to start several times in a row, and finally it would NOT do it and I’d get the truck started. I had a JimC idler pulley on hand so one day I finally got sick of it and swapped it (and still got my kiddo to school on time haha). Now I get a squealing on hard acceleration in 1st & second gear only that starts exactly at 2300rpm. Pretty sure it’s the idler pulley bearing - or at least that’s @joesfj40 guess and I tend to agree with him.

Have you removed the belt on the smog pump and tried running it for a minute or two? That’s probably the definitive test.
 
Good call. I had forgotten about the paper they include when they give it back to you. I've had it on there for about 3k miles, and it was quiet until this point. I'm not sure why it would start up now, but who knows. I think running it without the belt is a good test, it has to come off anyway.

It doesn't matter if the engine is hot or not, very RPM-sensitive in that it only happens above about 1500 and doesn't get worse with higher revs, and it's not consistent (i.e., it doesn't sound like a metronome rod knock or bad lifter). It also goes away once the revs drop back to idle. I can feel the thump when I put my hand on the adjuster bracket and pump body (watch your hand!)

I also noticed that the edge of the smog pump pulley is cutting a groove in my nice new power steering return hose, so I get to replace that too. This rig...
 
Got after the seam sealer this morning. Things happened pretty quick while applying, so only got some after shots but it laid out super nice, very happy with this. I ended up going through about 1.75 cartridges, so buy two (even though it's $$$).

IMG_1402.webp


The best trick I read was to mask off just at the body line in the roof, apply sealer, and then wait a couple of minutes to let it level out. Then, pull the tape and let the sealer flow into the area where the tape was sitting. That allows it to make a nice, uniform edge without having the tape line stick in the cured sealer. Have to work quick, however, as this stuff sets up fast. And, make sure to go slow, I got a few bubbles in the final product that I ultimately popped with an awl and re-filled with a little more sealant.

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I taped some newspaper to the bottom of the A-pillar, and let it run out the bottom (it's not fast, moves something between honey and a thick syrup). I did the same trick with the tape on the A-pillars, but the nozzle doesn't fit between the rail and the body, so you have to sort of build it into the gap and let it flow down as you ease product into the gap. It'll flow out the bottom once you get there, but ultimately it'll cure into one long piece that you can cut with a razor blade to release the paper.

Next up was the high-solid sealant under the A-pillars. This wasn't that hard, but I think I'd use the Eastwood stuff rather than the Drip-Chek as the Eastwood product would look more factory. It's out there curing now, but it can't be painted for 24-48 hours. I just need it to firm up enough so I can pull it back in the garage for a couple of days. I'll hit it with some primer during the week.

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Note the ham radio setup - Yaesu FT-1500m, good rig!

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That's it for now. It didn't make any racket this morning pulling it out into the driveway. So weird.
 
Nice job on the gutters, I didn’t do as well but I did do it.

For the A pillars I preloaded a dental syringe (free at your local pharmacy) and used that to get in the gap. Went slow and it filled up nicely.

Used one per side.
 
RevISK said:
Nice job on the gutters, I didn’t do as well but I did do it.

For the A pillars I preloaded a dental syringe (free at your local pharmacy) and used that to get in the gap. Went slow and it filled up nicely.

Used one per side.
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Thanks. I should have thought of the dental syringe, good call.

Going back through and looks like a little bit of touchup will be needed in a couple of really small areas, but worth it.
 
majdomo said:
That's it for now. It didn't make any racket this morning pulling it out into the driveway. So weird.
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Turns out it needs just a little bit of run time to get it to make that noise. Ugh.

Rig is back in the garage for now, did my touchups and still have just about 1/4 of a cartridge left plus the double-barrel caulking gun, but used up the other two nozzles. Working time is shortened with higher outside temps - it was about 60 out when I did it, now it's around 70-75 and the epoxy went off in the nozzle in less than 10 minutes. Something to keep in mind.
 
Called B-Z and they are happy to re-rebuild it, just need to bring the pump and invoice to them and they'll handle. So that will be fun to wrastle out of the rig but it'll probably have to wait until the weekend again. This is the week of holiday parties and all the last-minute stuff that people want to throw over the fence at work to say they got it "done" before winter break.
 
majdomo said:
Called B-Z and they are happy to re-rebuild it, just need to bring the pump and invoice to them and they'll handle. So that will be fun to wrastle out of the rig but it'll probably have to wait until the weekend again. This is the week of holiday parties and all the last-minute stuff that people want to throw over the fence at work to say they got it "done" before winter break.
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You probably know, but it’s doable to get the smog pump out without removing anything else. It’s tight, that’s for sure, but it can be done.
 
CruiserTrash said:
You probably know, but it’s doable to get the smog pump out without removing anything else. It’s tight, that’s for sure, but it can be done.
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Yeah, I was looking at last night and strategizing a bit, may pull it from underneath. I'm going to test it without the belt before removing, might be able to do that later tonight.
 
majdomo said:
Yeah, I was looking at last night and strategizing a bit, may pull it from underneath. I'm going to test it without the belt before removing, might be able to do that later tonight.
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I usually wiggle it out between the PS hoses. Whatever gets the job done though!
 
CruiserTrash said:
You probably know, but it’s doable to get the smog pump out without removing anything else. It’s tight, that’s for sure, but it can be done.
Click to expand...

Yup. Just remove the overflow bottle and Air intake hose IIRC
 
Re-tested without the belt, but after the rig was warmed up, and it was definitely the smog pump. Pulled and its in a box waiting to go back to B-Z.

I did move the air hose, and then removed the alternator belt and overflow tank to give me just a bit more room, but yeah wasn't that hard to remove.

Also will give me a chance to replace that power steering line, the smog pump dug a groove into it. Not so bad as to have it drip, but there is a kind of fine mist of oil / ATF around that area, so in that sense I'm glad this happened.
 
majdomo said:
Called B-Z and they are happy to re-rebuild it, just need to bring the pump and invoice to them and they'll handle. So that will be fun to wrastle out of the rig but it'll probably have to wait until the weekend again. This is the week of holiday parties and all the last-minute stuff that people want to throw over the fence at work to say they got it "done" before winter break.
Click to expand...
I look forward to hearing about the results of the re-rebuild.

I did a 60 air pump just for s***s and giggles about 25 years ago. As I recall, It was a strange process, kind of like aMazda Wankel engine, with eccentric retractable vanes on an eccentric shaft that requires very exact orientation. And the end cover gaskets are very brittle. I learned each of these things the hard way. Somewhere in a drawer I have some leftover parts from the other pumps that I ended up taking apart to fix the first one.😛
 
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