RevISK
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Build Woody
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- Thread starter
- #322
Glass guy came out Monday with new glass and a different gasket, but we ended up reusing the non -lock strip one that gave him issues at the headliner guy’s shop, and it worked out fine. This has sealant both between body and gasket, and glass and gasket. No leaks, please! Also please excuse the dirt, we’ve had rain and sun mixed the last few weeks and it hasn’t been worth washing yet.
The area above the tailgate was FULL of mouse everything. This turned out nicely.
Mice had also chewed up this trim piece around the latch. This was a takeoff from a 62 that @OGBeno was parting out. Another good vendor on Mud, it takes a village to keep these things running.
Vinyl repair on both the driver and passenger side seat bottoms. He even repaired a tiny hole with remnant from inside the seam.
This was very reasonable for quality work, especially if comparing to replacement covers and cushions.
Got another vendor sticker
I’m digging the blacked out look on these gaskets.
Anyway - that’s all the testimonials and work done. I have a date with a U-joint this weekend, but that should be it for a while… lolol
The area above the tailgate was FULL of mouse everything. This turned out nicely.
Mice had also chewed up this trim piece around the latch. This was a takeoff from a 62 that @OGBeno was parting out. Another good vendor on Mud, it takes a village to keep these things running.
Vinyl repair on both the driver and passenger side seat bottoms. He even repaired a tiny hole with remnant from inside the seam.
This was very reasonable for quality work, especially if comparing to replacement covers and cushions.
Got another vendor sticker
I’m digging the blacked out look on these gaskets.Anyway - that’s all the testimonials and work done. I have a date with a U-joint this weekend, but that should be it for a while… lolol
Looks Awesome. I'll have to add the headliner to the list in the future it really changes how it looks/feels
- Thread starter
- #324
The biggest pain aside from $$ was coordinating glass and headliner vendors. Glass guys are usually mobile but finding one that works on our old garbage is sometimes a challenge.
Give a few days cure time on that Urethane sealant. Leave at least a window down when closing doors to prevent blowouts. Nice work!
- Thread starter
- #327
Couple small projects - new U-joint for the rear driveshaft and some new seals for the speedo driven gear housing. New U-joint is Matsuba, had a hell of a time getting the old one out, used the death wheel and everything. New one went on with one minor hitch of a needle bearing falling over, but that was an easy fix.
Next was the speedo driven gear housing. The little O ring around the outside of the housing was basically flat plastic and crumbled when I removed it, and the inner seal was pretty bad too. This is before.
The inner seal is what the shaft of the driven gear rides on, basically a really tiny shaft seal with a spring. Remove and replace, use some grease when reinstalling.
That's it. Fighting a head cold so not feeling great. But glad this is all done.
Next was the speedo driven gear housing. The little O ring around the outside of the housing was basically flat plastic and crumbled when I removed it, and the inner seal was pretty bad too. This is before.
The inner seal is what the shaft of the driven gear rides on, basically a really tiny shaft seal with a spring. Remove and replace, use some grease when reinstalling.
That's it. Fighting a head cold so not feeling great. But glad this is all done.
4runner2FJ60
SILVER Star
Looks awesome 
. Was it difficult to find the new windshield glass?
. Was it difficult to find the new windshield glass?- Thread starter
- #329
No. Glass guy says it's a common size so it was easy. It's just not the original Toyota glass, which sort of sucks. But it's nice to get rid of the wiper haze and little pits from the 43 year old glass.Looks awesome
4runner2FJ60
SILVER Star
Definitely! Mine is not original either but so pitted and scratched up you can't see anything driving into the sun. Just need to find a good windshield guy like you did.
- Thread starter
- #331
First thing to report - squeaky rear hatch tracked down to the "rattle stopper" thing on the pillar. Get to grease that a little this weekend. Might break a sweat doing it!
Other thing to report, it grinds a little getting into reverse after driving for a while. Not immediately after starting, though, which is weird. I would think a sticky pilot bearing would hold the shaft regardless of if it was getting into gear or not. Shifting to any other gear doesn't stop it, and double-clutching doesn't either... not like the 3-speed in the 40 where you use the 2nd or 3rd gear synchros to stop the trans from spinning before going into 1st or reverse. So I'll be researching that.
One thought is to swap gear oil for Red Line or a mix of ATF and hypoid, something with some high detergent for a little while and see if that helps. I have a 2:3 ratio ATF / gear oil mix in the 5 speed of my BMW, and it shifts like buttah, but it's also not subject to the same high demands as a 4WD truck. I also haven't searched tech yet, so I'll get after that in short order.
Other thing to report, it grinds a little getting into reverse after driving for a while. Not immediately after starting, though, which is weird. I would think a sticky pilot bearing would hold the shaft regardless of if it was getting into gear or not. Shifting to any other gear doesn't stop it, and double-clutching doesn't either... not like the 3-speed in the 40 where you use the 2nd or 3rd gear synchros to stop the trans from spinning before going into 1st or reverse. So I'll be researching that.
One thought is to swap gear oil for Red Line or a mix of ATF and hypoid, something with some high detergent for a little while and see if that helps. I have a 2:3 ratio ATF / gear oil mix in the 5 speed of my BMW, and it shifts like buttah, but it's also not subject to the same high demands as a 4WD truck. I also haven't searched tech yet, so I'll get after that in short order.
- Thread starter
- #332
Back on the 60 this weekend. This was all on the list, down the road, but looking at the calendar for the rest of the summer, it looked like this was the last weekend I'd have open until maybe late July. So here we go - off to Mark's @65swb45 for parts and camaraderie. Why he puts up with me hanging out for an hour I'll never know .
But first, burger. This was a place in Norwalk, where I was visiting for my dad's art show. 2 hours in Friday night World Cup traffic through DTLA, ugh.
And some shots from the art show, watercolors. I'm trying to get him to do some of the Panamints that I took during the camping trip last year. He's been into national parks and Italy. He does cars on commission too. Some examples.
And now, the new third member. This is a good front 3.70 example, but it has the wrong flange on it. After chatting with Mark, it seems that the solution is to drill. Well then.
Used the driveshaft flange as a template, and one dead drill later, you end up with this.
This wasn't part of the plan, but it did work out. 11mm holes and the rectangular bolt pattern. I'm not sure what had this kind of flange before, someone else can school me on that.
And the old third. I don't remember ever seeing the yellow spray paint on the inside of a diff before, so I'm wondering if this is factory or not.
It got all over the block insert, too.
Once done drilling and installing the new third, went to put the block back and found it was just a tad too wide. I had that problem with the 62, and Mark just took some material off the old block with a flap disc on a grinder. And I ended up doing the same, this turned out very nicely I think.
Test drive and no clunk changing directions! What a relief. Changed out the axle seals as well, the ones on the rig were actually in good shape and appeared to have been replaced, but since the truck hadn't been driven for 25 years, the rubber was a little old. Suggests that the bearings at least were done at some point.
So, that was fun. Many lessons learned, not least of which is to not underestimate your abilities, especially when confronted with challenges. There was a point where I was very much ready to put the old one back in the truck, and I got some good advice to go with it. Glad I did.
I also have a job ahead replacing the AC compressor, which is just loud and not as efficient as it could be. It really struggled keeping up with the heat yesterday afternoon, which I'm chalking up to the condenser being a serpentine flow rather than a parallel flow. The R134A really wants the more efficient condenser, so will look into that when I open up the system. But not today. And definitely not tomorrow. Need time to recover.
EDIT - was great on the freeway, much less noise and vibration. Next project might be a clutch, though... the grinding into reverse gets old and it's not getting any better.
.But first, burger. This was a place in Norwalk, where I was visiting for my dad's art show. 2 hours in Friday night World Cup traffic through DTLA, ugh.
And some shots from the art show, watercolors. I'm trying to get him to do some of the Panamints that I took during the camping trip last year. He's been into national parks and Italy. He does cars on commission too. Some examples.
And now, the new third member. This is a good front 3.70 example, but it has the wrong flange on it. After chatting with Mark, it seems that the solution is to drill. Well then.
Used the driveshaft flange as a template, and one dead drill later, you end up with this.
This wasn't part of the plan, but it did work out. 11mm holes and the rectangular bolt pattern. I'm not sure what had this kind of flange before, someone else can school me on that.
And the old third. I don't remember ever seeing the yellow spray paint on the inside of a diff before, so I'm wondering if this is factory or not.
It got all over the block insert, too.
Once done drilling and installing the new third, went to put the block back and found it was just a tad too wide. I had that problem with the 62, and Mark just took some material off the old block with a flap disc on a grinder. And I ended up doing the same, this turned out very nicely I think.
Test drive and no clunk changing directions! What a relief. Changed out the axle seals as well, the ones on the rig were actually in good shape and appeared to have been replaced, but since the truck hadn't been driven for 25 years, the rubber was a little old. Suggests that the bearings at least were done at some point.
So, that was fun. Many lessons learned, not least of which is to not underestimate your abilities, especially when confronted with challenges. There was a point where I was very much ready to put the old one back in the truck, and I got some good advice to go with it. Glad I did.
I also have a job ahead replacing the AC compressor, which is just loud and not as efficient as it could be. It really struggled keeping up with the heat yesterday afternoon, which I'm chalking up to the condenser being a serpentine flow rather than a parallel flow. The R134A really wants the more efficient condenser, so will look into that when I open up the system. But not today. And definitely not tomorrow. Need time to recover.
EDIT - was great on the freeway, much less noise and vibration. Next project might be a clutch, though... the grinding into reverse gets old and it's not getting any better.
Last edited:
what's your plan for the compressor replacement
- Thread starter
- #334
Have a used one, but I need to check it against what I already have and so on. Time was maybe 2 years ago you could get a rebuilt Denso from Rockauto, but those days are gone.
yep i've been looking into it for a bit and only option is used or re-built somewhere. One on mine is re-built based on the sticker but working good for now
- Thread starter
- #337
Thanks for this! Did you switch from R12 to R134A and are you running the stock condenser?
My stock one seems to be holding up fine, but it's also not quite as cold as it probably should be. I also haven't checked if I've lost refrigerant since converting last year.
Yes, I converted some time ago. It's ok, but not optimal. Patrick (scotia) says there are better replacements than the r134a? I'm waiting on a 'Serpentine' type condenser from him, which he says are optimized for r134a (heat transfer). Incidentally, he's also a Cruiser-Head.
I have to go-thru my system as I believe I have a slow leak in my evaporator or components in the box. Evap was a Denso replacement 15 years ago....
Also, fwiw, the stock Denso Drier is not compatible with r134. There are aftermarket, but the Denso 478-0100 (mid 80s Cressida), has XH-9 desiccant which is fully synthetic and compatible with multiple refrigerants, including r134a. The Drier in the TSB is discontinued.
Also, are you aware r134a is now banned in Kalifornia ? (for DIY). Better buy some cans while people will still ship it to you. All the stuff available on ebay or Amazon now is r134a REPLACEMENT! not the same and doesn't work nearly as well.
Best to DM him here (but he's not on MUD very much) or if you want, I can DM you his work phone. I don't want to post that in the open forum due to the obvious.
I have to go-thru my system as I believe I have a slow leak in my evaporator or components in the box. Evap was a Denso replacement 15 years ago....
Also, fwiw, the stock Denso Drier is not compatible with r134. There are aftermarket, but the Denso 478-0100 (mid 80s Cressida), has XH-9 desiccant which is fully synthetic and compatible with multiple refrigerants, including r134a. The Drier in the TSB is discontinued.
Also, are you aware r134a is now banned in Kalifornia ? (for DIY). Better buy some cans while people will still ship it to you. All the stuff available on ebay or Amazon now is r134a REPLACEMENT! not the same and doesn't work nearly as well.
Best to DM him here (but he's not on MUD very much) or if you want, I can DM you his work phone. I don't want to post that in the open forum due to the obvious.
Should a few ready to go shortly. Again its a direct fit and an improvement over the hard to find OE serpentine condenser. If you are running a OE compressor (I have these as well) with an OE style drier in the stock location, this kit will work for you.
- Thread starter
- #339
Are you fawking kidding......
Nope. They want it recycled like R12