ARCHIVE Wits’ End 60 Series Glove Box Insert design- input needed

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I'm going to throw a wrench into your well thought out plans. The 70 series have a thing available called the Doug's Tub.
For me personally having something to stop stuff falling out when the door is open and not spilling out is a pretty good idea.
Not sure if it's too late to think of incorporating this idea?
The 70 series is disgustingly short on the bottom, the 60 glove box is deeper and with better angle, but thought I'd throw it out there.
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I'm going to throw a wrench into your well thought out plans. The 70 series have a thing available called the Doug's Tub.
For me personally having something to stop stuff falling out when the door is open and not spilling out is a pretty good idea.
Not sure if it's too late to think of incorporating this idea?
The 70 series is disgustingly short on the bottom, the 60 glove box is deeper and with better angle, but thought I'd throw it out there.
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I have other ideas ;)
 
Sorry guys for interrupting the discussion on a great item to have but I noticed this same thing on my hj60 which I can't figure out what it is.

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After taking out my own 60 box I was able to get better measurements. Based on my 60 there was room to make adjustments and enlarge the box.

• Added almost 3/4" to the back of the glove box.
• Removed the step in the corner. By removing the step in the corner, the shelf is now symmetric. It can be flipped over to allow 2 different mounting heights with only 1 set of mounting holes. The height going forward is TBD.
• Need to decide if the shelf should have a lip curved up or not.
• Any other suggestions for fuse panel other than the Blue Sea? Its bulky and doesn't need to be waterproof :P

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I think as long as we have an option for some extra fuses in the cab that whatever brand is fine. Would a power block (dont know if that is the right term) be the same size? You know one of those fuse box looking contraptions that has a main power lug at the top and then multiple connection points to branch off of (some even come with a dedicated grounding terminal.).
 
I think as long as we have an option for some extra fuses in the cab that whatever brand is fine. Would a power block (dont know if that is the right term) be the same size? You know one of those fuse box looking contraptions that has a main power lug at the top and then multiple connection points to branch off of (some even come with a dedicated grounding terminal.).

All fuse panels have one centralized power in cable that supplies the panel then branches out to their respective circuit past the fuse. A ground bus technically isn’t required at the fuse block so long as the load circuit is properly grounded which shouldn’t be hard on a 60.
 
Down to the wire now. Just a few last bit of details then I will be making up a RHD and LHD prototype that that will decide the final product/price.

For fuse panels I think I can narrow it down to maybe three. The reason I am focusing on this is because I would like to be able to plan in wire paths so that its not a pain for everyone to add after the fact. If I can make my mind which way to go I can then use pemmuts to make everything plug-n-play. Its just easier for everyone.

There are two Blue Sea versions and there is one OEM option:
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At issue for me right now is the light. I'm no fan of the OEM light and I'm sure none of you are either. I am inclined to delete the hole and utilize the connector for a different LED light. The problem is what to use for a light. Most of the stuff I would normally use on my own stuff is damn spendy. But stupid Chinese sticky tape LEDs drive me nuts. Need something in between. Thoughts?
 
I think if you leave the provisions to add a light, whether it be $$$$ version or cheap chinese sticky LEDs that is up to the user and you have given them what is needed.
 
I have an LED in place of my OEM light bulb (still using the OEM fixture) and it does okay. It could be better but I'm content with just having that.

Is the extra fuse panel just meant to be an option?
 
I have an LED in place of my OEM light bulb (still using the OEM fixture) and it does okay. It could be better but I'm content with just having that.

Is the extra fuse panel just meant to be an option?

I won’t be supplying the fuse panel but I would like to have the mount for it ready to go if there is one panel to rule them all.
 
I have an LED in place of my OEM light bulb (still using the OEM fixture) and it does okay. It could be better but I'm content with just having that.

Is the extra fuse panel just meant to be an option?
See mine does not even work so I don't get in there. Really the glove box is just a storage for extra crap or things I dont want floating around in my center console like my tire warranty, registration, insurance, etc. But really I just need to pick up one of @NLXTACY center console document holders and just fix it to my Smittybuilt since he doesnt have one that is specifically made for it.

OOoooh.. speaking of.. What about adding pemnuts to the shelf that would allow for the attachment of a specialized canvas type envelope to hold such documents?!
 
Worked out a couple little nits. Still trying to decide on the ideal shelf height(s). Knowing the fuse panel helps because then I can notch the shelf if needed. Just looks so much cleaner. The Blue Sea USB location hole's position will change most likely because of the location of the ducting. I will verify tomorrow. The fuse panel needs to be on the right hand side. It makes the most sense by far.

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