I just responded to your email with some things to check. Apologies for not getting back sooner. It was a long holiday weekend with many emails to write and work to catch up on. Thanks for the order. Let me know what you find.
Window Rocket - who’s tried it?
- Thread starter FIDO96
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I just responded to your email with some things to check. Apologies for not getting back sooner. It was a long holiday weekend with many emails to write and work to catch up on. Thanks for the order. Let me know what you find.
A couple things I've worked through with customers so far-
Window Rocket big black ground wire not hooked up, loose, or connection point rusty. Missing battery to body ground in engine bay.
Driver's door master window switch connector corroded.
The Window Rocket does have a current set point where it trips and defaults to battery voltage output. That current output is pretty high. If window motors, regulators and runs are all good shape it should run all four windows up without tripping off. With old original stuff it will power 1-2 windows up simultaneously.
To test it, try running all four up simultaneously and it should overcurrent trip then reset after 10 seconds.
That is some good info....
I suspect it is over current because earlier today, I lowered the driver's window, and then attempted to raise it but it did nothing.
Then after waiting, it did something with a little help from me pulling up on the window. Below freezing here at the moment.
Everything is original and I have cleaned the runs, but nothing else. New parts on hand, just haven't gotten around to it yet.
This is on a LS swap, so all the engine ground are different, but new. I can ohm out the ground wire from Window Rocket just to be sure though...
Doublecheck there is a ground from battery negative to the driver inner fender. There should also be one from back of engine to firewall and driver side of engine to inner fender, but the one dirct to battery is the one supplying all the gusto to the power window circuit.
Don't know if anyone has said it but wouldn't recommend this product unless the window channels have been replaced already. The resistance forcing the glass through 25+yr hardened rubber is sure to trash your motors.
I definitely disagree with this.
Not that replacing the old parts is a bad idea, but my all-stock 1993 has never worked so smoothly and perfectly, even in the current cold weather. Adding the Window Rocket completely transformed how the windows work.
Yeah, I know this is a really long thread so you probably didn't read any of the times I addressed your theory, but you should.
You should read it because we spent the better part of a decade developing this product and tested not just that the product does work, but how it works and how seal friction acting on the glass directly correlates with the inverse speed of the glass.
TL;DR:
You're assumption is wrong. The motors have an easier life when the voltage is raised to increase glass speed.
Yep
This morning it was 21* degrees out and I had no issue with any of the windows going up or down
Before Window Rocket, if I would've attempted moving any of them, I would've had to give them a helping hand or wait for the thermal circuit to reset after they would overload
With the Window Rocket installed, they go up and down so fast that they simply don't have a chance to overheat
Question for all 80 owners-
A lot of Window Rockets out in the wild now. 99.9% working great. I've replaced one unit. It reportedly blew the fuse after 3 months. It load tested good when I got it back, so not sure if that can be counted as a failure.
Every Window Rocket is tested twice before its packed. Tested for proper wiring then tested for full load and voltage output and proper input current.
However, I've got a few customers who's windows aren't much faster after install. In testing what's going on with these, the Window Rocket isn't getting enough power through the vehicle wiring.
I'm considering 3 options-
Option 1- Add a troubleshooting section to the instructions covering potential wiring issues to test and ways to fix them.
Option 2- Add a connector to all Window Rockets for an optional, add on direct to battery fused bypass harness. Those that need or want the bypass harness can buy it together or after the fact if they want/need it.
Option 3- Build all Window Rockets with a fused harness that must be hooked to the battery. This adds cost and install time, but ensures everyone's windows work the same.
I would like to hear your opinions about which option you would prefer. Keep in mind the latter options add cost to the product, the product price will increase.
Thanks,
Dustin
A lot of Window Rockets out in the wild now. 99.9% working great. I've replaced one unit. It reportedly blew the fuse after 3 months. It load tested good when I got it back, so not sure if that can be counted as a failure.
Every Window Rocket is tested twice before its packed. Tested for proper wiring then tested for full load and voltage output and proper input current.
However, I've got a few customers who's windows aren't much faster after install. In testing what's going on with these, the Window Rocket isn't getting enough power through the vehicle wiring.
I'm considering 3 options-
Option 1- Add a troubleshooting section to the instructions covering potential wiring issues to test and ways to fix them.
Option 2- Add a connector to all Window Rockets for an optional, add on direct to battery fused bypass harness. Those that need or want the bypass harness can buy it together or after the fact if they want/need it.
Option 3- Build all Window Rockets with a fused harness that must be hooked to the battery. This adds cost and install time, but ensures everyone's windows work the same.
I would like to hear your opinions about which option you would prefer. Keep in mind the latter options add cost to the product, the product price will increase.
Thanks,
Dustin
To me a combination of Option 1 and Option 2 make sense. I'd put Option 1 on a website where there's an index page that lists issues with links to pages that publish the troubleshooting steps/images/videos so that you can more easily just update and expand the troubleshooting pages as new info comes in. Option 2 makes since to me since the majority of these work without the extra harness.
Dustin,
I think Option 2 is the middle of the road solution. If people want the direct wire they can add on either at time of purchase or after, if implemented this will be an option on your site correct?
That way it could keep cost down and in addition not have additional parts/steps to what could be a basic install. You could still retain one install instruction and add an addendum "If using the direct wire setup" please follow these steps.
As for the troubleshooting, you could reference the product page in the install instructions and place a guide on the product listing on your site - they found it once to order so shouldn't be a hinderance to go back if additional assistance is needed.
I think Option 2 is the middle of the road solution. If people want the direct wire they can add on either at time of purchase or after, if implemented this will be an option on your site correct?
That way it could keep cost down and in addition not have additional parts/steps to what could be a basic install. You could still retain one install instruction and add an addendum "If using the direct wire setup" please follow these steps.
As for the troubleshooting, you could reference the product page in the install instructions and place a guide on the product listing on your site - they found it once to order so shouldn't be a hinderance to go back if additional assistance is needed.
COS80
SILVER Star
I would add option 2.1 ... which is provide instructions for a DYI harness . Most of us have modified rigs already and likely an additional fuse block with spares. In my case i would like to just know where to bring the power source to the Window Rocket and use my existing Aux fuse block
And keep option 2 for sure. Seems the most universal solution and plug and play
... which is provide instructions for a DYI harness . Most of us have modified rigs already and likely an additional fuse block with spares. In my case i would like to just know where to bring the power source to the Window Rocket and use my existing Aux fuse block And keep option 2 for sure. Seems the most universal solution and plug and play
I agree with what some others have said, but I also have another thought. Why penalize normal owners with the burden (extra cost) that some owners have, that have not maintained their rig, have another factory defect, or have bought a trashed rig cheap and are getting it into shape? So keep your original (as it stands) kits and go with either option 1 or 2. Problem rig and lack of skills extra expenses should be handled by the owners, IMHO.
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You mean the load source for the relay? I'm talking about offering an add-on to power from the battery. There's no other viable source under the dash.
Imo, if the wiring in an 80 is struggling to deliver the pixies to the power window relay, its not going to be solved by moving the load power one step closer to the battery, such as the interior fuse block. The problem is corrosion and/or missing wires (grounds).
I've been pretty intimate with the underdash wiring in a lot of 80's and something I've noted that's relevant to this discussion is even the ones with evidence of lots of water damage (Like every connector is full of green corrosion, rust streaks and flaky corrosion behind the kick panels) still seem to get full power to the window rocket fine. So my suspicion is the handful not getting enough pixies are suffering from issues nearer the battery-
Bad grounds, bad fusible links, heavy corrosion or??
What I have in mind seems simple.
The Window rocket rocket would get a two terminal connector added to the load wire after the relay plug. It would ship with a jumper connector plugged in to power windows from the power window circuit.
If someone finds their 80 has wiring that won't supply the necessary pixies they can buy the battery harness and it would plug in place of the jumper harness, then route load power from the battery.
If someone wants to DIY it just cut the orange wire off the plug and run it to battery+ with a 30 amp fuse and 10g wire. Run a 10g ground wire as well.
I don't believe this is a big issue. I'm just not a "it's good enough" kinda guy.
Thank you all for the feedback.
I nixed that idea in my head after I posted about it.
To do it, one should also add an ignition-activated relay as well to avoid no-load current loss due to the DC to DC voltage booster being powered all the time. It might be in the range of 10 - 15 amps/week draw if one doesn't add a relay. At which point...you have a Window Rocket.....
I still got to look at mine..just not a priority.
Hey Dustin,
Just bought your Window Rocket a few weeks ago. I think options 1 & 2 are the ticket. No need to add cost & complexity to everyone for what sounds like an edge case.
For anyone on the fence, I can say I am another satisfied customer. The Window Rocket works great, was an easy install and feels very high quality FWIW.