window felt replacement

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When you replace the window channel in the front doors, be sure and NOT cut it where the old one was cut. I ran the long strip (part number 30 in the diagram in post 21) as far down the front of the door as it would go, and cut the short piece (part number 34 in the diagram) to fit. That way, the joint is way down in the door, and not up where you can see it and water can be channeled in.
 
Pics

Ok I finished the last door today and also ran the window trim. The window channel (part 30) went down enough that I was able to remove the old cut piece. There was maybe 4" at the bottom- the window didn't move. Let me say the difference is dramatic, the window seals so well I am going to do the other doors. The felt also makes a huge difference and it seems alot tighter against water. Mind you I know water will still get in , but nothing like it did before. I will have to clay bar the area that was previously covered to get the bit of wax and dirt off of the paint. I just painted in 2007 so your under chrome results may differ.....
Here are the pics

The front with chrome strip still on
HPIM0299.jpg


Front and rear comparison
HPIM0299.jpg


Drivers side done with no more chrome strips...I just noticed the reflection of some one legged bastard
HPIM0301.jpg


Drivers side close up
HPIM0302.jpg


Check under your door panels every so often...rust never sleeps
HPIM0303.jpg


Feeding window channel rubber
HPIM0305.jpg


It fits in very easy
HPIM0306.jpg


Clipping outside felt in
HPIM0307.jpg


Just push until it clicks and your done
HPIM0308.jpg
 
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That looks so much better! Great work finding the parts guys!
 
Drivers side done with no more chrome strips...I just noticed the reflection of some one legged bastard
HPIM0301.jpg
Titanium?

What was the total cost (the felt/weatherstripping, not the leg)?

You have some chrome to remove around the windows there, sir.

You wanna powdercoat those door handles now too, huh?

Last Q: Respray? The condition of your paint kicks the s*** out of mine (same color).
 
Yes to Titanium- with elevated vacuum ;)

Total cost for all four doors was around 200.00 through Cdan.
I looked at the chrome on the doors and I always thought they somehow were structural, can I just take them off? what is underneath? painted? do you have pics of yours?

as far as paint I had them wetsand the orange peel out. It made the paint a little thin but looks much better....and clay bar and consistent wax helps alot for maintanence.
 
I looked at the chrome on the doors and I always thought they somehow were structural, can I just take them off? what is underneath? painted? do you have pics of yours?

I have pulled the chrome around the top off of mine - i'll try to find a pic and post it for you. Mine are sanded and prepped for paint... but other than that you should get the idea.

As for the window channel along the top - was your old channel really beat up, or...? I think mine's pretty good shape, but knowing how much the door seals help, i wonder if this would be a good one for soundproofing better.

rob
 
Man I've gotta get on this. I really like how these look compared to the chrome ones......and mine need replacing anyway :D
 
Hey smokey - another Q -

HPIM0307.jpg


Did they come with the clip shown here? It has to help to use these plastic clips instead of the original *usually partially rusting* metal clips.

thx!

rob

The clips do come with them, they already attached when you receive them.
 
I have pulled the chrome around the top off of mine - i'll try to find a pic and post it for you. Mine are sanded and prepped for paint... but other than that you should get the idea.

As for the window channel along the top - was your old channel really beat up, or...? I think mine's pretty good shape, but knowing how much the door seals help, i wonder if this would be a good one for soundproofing better.

rob

On mine the channel got crunched by a PO and it prevented the window from seating correctly. It mad a world of difference in the seal though. I need to do the other 3, but just havent had the motivation since although some are split they still seal sortof ok.
 
Alright just so all of you know- if you own an fj60 (62 apparently not) you can do this mod, free. Pull the chrome strips off, and resnap the felts back in. It looks exactly like smokeys pictures, same coverage, everything. You dont need special part #s. The originals work fine if you dont want or need new ones.
 
Is this the part that needs replaced if the window is very difficult to roll up?
 
Is this the part that needs replaced if the window is very difficult to roll up?

It may or may not help, but one of the biggest factors is the window felt around the upper door frame. That and the fact that the motors are underpowered and still rather weak when they do have full power available (via the relay mod that's been posted), the windows on these will never be as quick as those on a new compact. I'd love to try and find motors from a new vehicle that'll match up with these and allow for a near bolt-in replacement with better power.
 
I know this is resurrecting an old thread, but I wanted to give an update since I just completed this mod myself.

I have an 84 FJ60.

One of the previous posts was correct for the 60's about taking off the weatherstrip, separating the chrome (actually SS) covers and simply re-installing the window felts.

Mine however, were in poor condition, so a replacement was in order.

The pn#s for window felts for the 80-85 FJ60s are no longer available.

The felts for the 86-87 FJ60 are still available, and that is what is being discussed earlier in this thread.

I ordered the following parts from Ralph Hayes Toyota in Anderson, SC, who sponsors the Upstate Cruiser club and offers 25% off list for club members:

68180-90a01 (outside rear)
68230-90a01 (outside rear)
68160-90a02 (outside front)
68210-90a02 (outside front)

Total pre-tax was $61.68

These new felts are the same as the ones pictured above, and feature the plastic clips which are a lot less likely to scratch the paint and create a rust opportunity.

In addition, these felts also have a wider rubber seal, which helps cover any paint issues exposed be removing the chrome.

The only issue I have with this mod is that now, because the chromes (which had some additional rubber end caps) are now removed, there are some small gaps in the weatherstrip. I plan to fill those with black silicone once I finish some paint touch up.
 
I know this is resurrecting an old thread, but I wanted to give an update since I just completed this mod myself.

I have an 84 FJ60.

One of the previous posts was correct for the 60's about taking off the weatherstrip, separating the chrome (actually SS) covers and simply re-installing the window felts.

Mine however, were in poor condition, so a replacement was in order.

The pn#s for window felts for the 80-85 FJ60s are no longer available.

The felts for the 86-87 FJ60 are still available, and that is what is being discussed earlier in this thread.

I ordered the following parts from Ralph Hayes Toyota in Anderson, SC, who sponsors the Upstate Cruiser club and offers 25% off list for club members:

68180-90a01 (outside rear)
68230-90a01 (outside rear)
68160-90a02 (outside front)
68210-90a02 (outside front)

Total pre-tax was $61.68

These new felts are the same as the ones pictured above, and feature the plastic clips which are a lot less likely to scratch the paint and create a rust opportunity.

In addition, these felts also have a wider rubber seal, which helps cover any paint issues exposed be removing the chrome.

The only issue I have with this mod is that now, because the chromes (which had some additional rubber end caps) are now removed, there are some small gaps in the weatherstrip. I plan to fill those with black silicone once I finish some paint touch up.

I wouldn't use silicon. For a sealant I would recommend polyurethane. I made the mistake of using silicon on a few sections of my gutter and there's some ugly rust growing underneath. Something with silicone sealants is corrosive to steel.
 
Good reminder. Ill use some 1 part urethane sealant

I wouldn't use silicon. For a sealant I would recommend polyurethane. I made the mistake of using silicon on a few sections of my gutter and there's some ugly rust growing underneath. Something with silicone sealants is corrosive to steel.
 
paint

Did you paint the inside of your doors too?thanks for sharing this info it will be useful in the future i think someone should add it to FAQ.:)
 
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