Nice! Is that a DIY Bend brake?After the FJ40 project, I didn't think I would enjoy metal fabrication again, but I was wrong, I really like it.
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What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?
- Thread starter IH8MUD
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Yes. I wish I had made that before I started the FJ40 project. It is so much easier to work with metal now
Looks like a crack to me. Spray WD-40 on it while idling will tell you for sure.
Have you talked to Javier about a cage? I think his son is a fabricator. His purple crawler had a pretty awesome one.
It's not so much the air leak I'm worried about, I can see where the end of the flange is flexing into the gasket due to the nut pulling it in. means I'm not getting a proper seal along that part of the flange. plus, it's eventually going to break and fall off.
I would think it would cause you to run lean if it’s sucking air. I would get it fixed.
Thermal cycling will finish cracking it off at some point. I would look at the those spark plugs and do a dry/wet compression check on the cylinders. I think it could be V ed and welded easily and cheaply. I would also plane it and the header flat. A good check on the mating surface of the head for flatness too could pay off.
Do you have a number?
Over the years what I’ve learned is aluminum is like people. Age makes it brittle. I think if you remove that manifold it’s going to break apart. I would try sealing that with a few dabs of JB Weld to seal it while I look for a replacement. Just my thoughts.
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Hopefully getting a 21100-61020..
JB weld was my first thought too. But then I saw how the end of the manifold was bending in due to the nut being tightened. I figure that whatever that nut was holding down isn't being held down enough anymore. so that whole runner was being held down with just the one nut at it's lower right corner.
I'm not going to panic though, found a replacement...
Way back in the yester-year I rebuilt an early Volvo ('67?) and it developed cracks in the manifold. The trick I learned from an outfit in Irwindale was to to preheat the cast iron manifold in an oven, super hot, and then weld it, cool slowly and then machine it flat.
I used that method to weld cast and pig-iron parts later in the Operating Engineers, local 12.
I used that method to weld cast and pig-iron parts later in the Operating Engineers, local 12.
POPO AGIE
SILVER Star
Did you use Ni Rod for the weld material?
Enjoying it now that it actually runs and drives. I got the Koito H4 kit, 81110-60P70, and threw that it. My terminals were aftermarket/mangled so I cut those off and redid the ends of my wires. Engine bay is kind of a mess but it'll do for now.
Whoa! Nice!
Hooked up the new battery with 950CCA this time to the 2H but still no luck. I tried the priming pump again and I can pump 100 times without any pressure change in the pump (with the bleeder closed). I was able to get fuel to come out before I switch to the Napa gold filter (3393). I was reading on another thread that it was a viable replacement option.
I think next I'll switch back to the filter that came with the truck, fill it and try again. Maybe the Napa filter doesn't actually seal well. If that doesn't work I may look into getting a new lift pump assembly or try upgrading to just the pump to the Bosch version. I'll have to check the existing pump housing to make sure all of the crush washers are present and that the rubber lines look ok since the truck sat for 5 years.
I think next I'll switch back to the filter that came with the truck, fill it and try again. Maybe the Napa filter doesn't actually seal well. If that doesn't work I may look into getting a new lift pump assembly or try upgrading to just the pump to the Bosch version. I'll have to check the existing pump housing to make sure all of the crush washers are present and that the rubber lines look ok since the truck sat for 5 years.
Ackcruisers
SILVER Star
Found some NOS bolts for door hinges all around. In process of installing. This is one of those important upgrades that will make the truck run better right?
