What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?

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killrazor said:
I just bought an 87 FJ60 and was thinking about putting the 4bt in it with an H55F tranny. I've heard that the 4bt will make a lot of vibration. Would love to talk to you and anyone else here about the install and recommendations.

Thanks
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I have seen the 4bt in multiple FJ60 platforms. It fits well and performs very well. But they are loud, very loud. I see you are new to the forum, welcome! If you decide to move forward with this project, I would suggest you check out the FJ60 section and the Diesel section for more accurate research and guidance. Good luck in your future endeavors.
 
killrazor said:
I just bought an 87 FJ60 and was thinking about putting the 4bt in it with an H55F tranny. I've heard that the 4bt will make a lot of vibration. Would love to talk to you and anyone else here about the install and recommendations.

Thanks
Click to expand...
I considered the Cummins 4Bt for my build but had done as much research for adapters. But when Cummins came out the the R2.8 crate motor they went to SEMA and presented it to venders for develop adapters. The R2.8 comes with a power steering pump, alternator, set up for an electric fan but converted to a 18" mechanical fan. The oil and fuel with hand priming pump filtration are included.

I got the motor mounts, crossmember, adapter plate and crank extension from a shop in Belgrade Montana. With that kit I have the 2F bell housing in the same location as it was behind the F series motors I had and reused the bell housing motor mounts along with the crossmember under the H55F with a split transfer case with 3:1 low rang. I also reused my 2F flywheel after having the hot spots surface ground.

I bought a Military grade Terrain Tamer diesel clutch through Georg to go into the mix.

The cost of the R2.8 is steep but so was the H55F and split transfer case but the R2.8 comes well equipped and makes more power then the 4Bt, less noisy and lower vibration and only 500 lbs. I bought a tuner out of the UK that lowers the torque curve down to lower rpms and puts the hp and torque compliable to both the Toyota and GM 2.8 and better then the older V8 diesels that were not turbo charges available in the US domestic pickup trucks.

As far as installing it was not that hard the new motor mounts bolt to existing threaded holes in the frame rails that locate the block, once they adapter and 2/3 F bell housing are installed with the gear boxes you pick it all just like it had a an F motor and drop in. Jack up the transmission and bolt up the motor mounts on the bell housing and the block. My kit used all Toyota isolators from the transmission crossmember, bell housing and motor mounts. Once in place on the mounts I tacked the front motor mounts and the plates and shims for the crossmember under the transmission. Pulled the drive train back out and welded everything out.

The R2.8 is small but is wider then a v8 and I had to shim my FJ105 steering box out from the frame 1/2" to clear the water pump nozzle. I moved the radiator back and down to line up with the fan and clearance for the intercooler. I have a lot of photos in my Build thread.

Rebuild of Trusty​

 
Installed the air intake horn and hose.

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killrazor said:
I just bought an 87 FJ60 and was thinking about putting the 4bt in it with an H55F tranny. I've heard that the 4bt will make a lot of vibration. Would love to talk to you and anyone else here about the install and recommendations.

Thanks
Click to expand...

I put a rotary pump 4bt and NV4500 in mine and I absolutely love it. Yes, it is pretty loud, but I also have not installed any sort of insulation yet. Tons of power and 25+mpg. It is a tight fit but it is very doable.
 
Have not driven the 40 in a few weeks so I took it for gas. Fuel Gauge was reading a needle under 1/2 and it took 9 gallons at $4.02/gal. The truck just runs so smoothly with the Sniper and the ride is so much more comfortable. I decided to put on a few more miles so that when I got home, this odometer happened.

This is 7,777 miles since the engine/trans rebuild. If I can actually retire before the end of the year, I may get rid of the Chevy pickup and use my 40 as my daily driver. If we need anything for travel, my wife has the Suburban
EDIT: THE RIDE is more comfortable because of the Terrain Tamer Parabolic Suspension…forgot to add that part
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Got some time to look over wiring diagrams and made progress on lighting. Previous owner bought new turn signals that are 2 wire instead of 3 and ground through the light body itself. Got those figured out and my hazards working in front.

Rear is another story. They were midway through splicing for a trailer hitch and didn't finish. After depinning the connectors on the light side and plugging them into the body side harness directly I have everything working but 2 functions. Brake running lights aren't coming on with the headlights (brake pedal still lights them up) and the left side hazard light isn't working. Hazards work if I wiggle the switch but turn signals do not work at all front or rear.

Still waiting to see if this shop in Belgium has the oil dipstick union I need for the 2h. The Australia vendor said it would be December at the earliest.
 
The PO had the Dashtop just popped on the dash pad and held in place with the windshield knobs. He also did not install any of the dash screws and just pinched the wires for the dash light between the pad and the dash. Since the Dashtop does not have a provision for the light, I pulled it for future use so it wouldn't be stuck under the cap. Prepped everything with alcohol and used some clear silicone adhesive to bond the cap the the pad. I pulled the wiring back through the hole and secured it for later. We used to get the dash pads refurbished from Just Dashes and they would turn out great. I may go that route later, but I already had the cap so I settled on this for now.
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dmtfab said:
The PO had the Dashtop just popped on the dash pad and held in place with the windshield knobs. He also did not install any of the dash screws and just pinched the wires for the dash light between the pad and the dash. Since the Dashtop does not have a provision for the light, I pulled it for future use so it wouldn't be stuck under the cap. Prepped everything with alcohol and used some clear silicone adhesive to bond the cap the the pad. I pulled the wiring back through the hole and secured it for later. We used to get the dash pads refurbished from Just Dashes and they would turn out great. I may go that route later, but I already had the cap so I settled on this for now.
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Awesome work. I can't wait to see it installed on the Cruiser.
 
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