What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?

[Skreddy]

Adjusted the parking brake cable. Used the nut on the underside of the dash to take up as much slack as I could. Bent the little metal tab down so the barrel would not pop out of place. Not a fun job, but very much needed.
Tuned the carb. Seems to run a little better, but still needs some work.
Question: my sight glass is 3/4 or better full. What is the problem with running it like that? I know it needs to be 1/2 up the glass, but is there a thing as too much fuel?
Took it up the trail behind town. Went as far as I could before the alders became too thick.
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I’ve had some run super rich when more than half up the sight glass and some not be effected at all. If it’s happy then run it where it is. If you seem to get sooty exhaust at idle, hard starts, etc., maybe bring it down a little. Scenery looks awesome!

 

[igotta40]

New OEM muffler, cleaned the pipes and sprayed with Rustoleum Hi Heat and new shocks. Also, it was years ago, but I made up this heat shield so my exhaust pipe will stop burning up my speedometer cable. The muffler came with a light coat of cheap black paint so I removed that with brake fluid.

 

[igotta40]

Wouldn't be practical, or reliable, but would be interesting to have alcear valve cover and watch those valves dance. Then again, the oil would likely splatter all over and obstruct the view anyway. But would be cool to see.

I might be showing my age, but have you ever seen a glass float bowl on a carburetor?

 

[bikersmurf]

Adjusted the parking brake cable. Used the nut on the underside of the dash to take up as much slack as I could. Bent the little metal tab down so the barrel would not pop out of place. Not a fun job, but very much needed.
Tuned the carb. Seems to run a little better, but still needs some work.
Question: my sight glass is 3/4 or better full. What is the problem with running it like that? I know it needs to be 1/2 up the glass, but is there a thing as too much fuel?
Took it up the trail behind town. Went as far as I could before the alders became too thick.
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If the float level is too high and you’re off camber, fuel can potentially spill into the throat of the carb and cause it to stall. In the past I’ve adjusted the float to keep the fuel a tad lower than centre.

I’d not mess with it though until you’re doing a carb rebuild.

 

[red66toy]

Been a long time coming with this one! Chevy 10dn alternator finally died so it was time to go back to Toyota! Been at least 23 years since this truck had a OE alternator in it! Slowly but surely this rig is getting put back together the way I always wanted. Thanks to @Coolerman for the electrical parts and @FJ60Cam for the spa treatment on the old school 60022 alternator.

 

[Vossie]

Continuing to find different ways to use old parts I have.

Which means now I can finally go topless

 

[45Dougal]

New OEM muffler, cleaned the pipes and sprayed with Rustoleum Hi Heat and new shocks. Also, it was years ago, but I made up this heat shield so my exhaust pipe will stop burning up my speedometer cable. The muffler came with a light coat of cheap black paint so I removed that with brake fluid.

Nice job. That wasn't an issue in its native Japan of course. With the steering wheel on the right side; the speedo doesn't get within 2 feet of the exhaust

 

[cruiserkev]

New OEM muffler, cleaned the pipes and sprayed with Rustoleum Hi Heat and new shocks. Also, it was years ago, but I made up this heat shield so my exhaust pipe will stop burning up my speedometer cable. The muffler came with a light coat of cheap black paint so I removed that with brake fluid.

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Replacing my OEM muffler as well. The old one lasted 25 years! I am only retiring it because of a couple small pinholes and noisy baffles inside. World sure has changed since 1998, buy Toyota parts whenever possible; they practically last forever.

 

[Living in the Past]

Continuing to find different ways to use old parts I have.

Which means now I can finally go topless

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Personally not sure I would trust those. Especially with no top or door headers for extra support. What your using held the cap to the windshield. Besides being four of the them there are also brackets on the ends. The original hold downs are a lot beefier then these. The catch was a deep hook compared to these. That was the beauty of the old 40 series, they were over built. Are these up to the task, who knows.

 

[igotta40]

Nice job. That wasn't an issue in its native Japan of course. With the steering wheel on the right side; the speedo doesn't get within 2 feet of the exhaust

It wasn’t a problem until I put the header and pipes on. The stock exhaust ran below the skid pan.

 

[Vossie]

Personally not sure I would trust those. Especially with no top or door headers for extra support. What your using held the cap to the windshield. Besides being four of the them there are also brackets on the ends. The original hold downs are a lot beefier then these. The catch was a deep hook compared to these. That was the beauty of the old 40 series, they were over built. Are these up to the task, who knows.

That's a good point. It's something I've been thinking about as well. And the reality is I'm not sure too! My gut and what I know about how stuff works says it should be fine. But I guess there's only one way to know for sure. Come Monday morning I'm going to be builing a roll bar and I'm thinking of having it tie into the windscreen. This makes me lean more towards doing it.

 

[Engineer8000]

The radiator sprung a leak where the top tank is soldered to the core. The core was looking a little rough so pulled it and took it to Mrs. Boney in Wilmington for a new re-core. It is the rarer factory AC version so not available new/aftermarket.

I am at a cross roads with this truck. I am retiring again soon so it will not be a daily driver so much.

It needs rust repair and paint which means the body is coming off the frame. I've been running this 3fe with H55f and split case for about 10 years and am happy with it. It only has about 30k on the complete rebuild.

It may be time to change the drivetrain while the body is off. I have a 2f+4 speed and 1fz sitting in the garage. Or I could track down a 1f that was stock, with a three speed. I bought the 2f to maybe make a 2fe. I need to pick a lane and stay in it and free up the garage space. What would be the best investment here?

 

[Roastchestnuts]

The radiator sprung a leak where the top tank is soldered to the core. The core was looking a little rough so pulled it and took it to Mrs. Boney in Wilmington for a new re-core. It is the rarer factory AC version so not available new/aftermarket.

I am at a cross roads with this truck. I am retiring again soon so it will not be a daily driver so much.

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It needs rust repair and paint which means the body is coming off the frame. I've been running this 3fe with H55f and split case for about 10 years and am happy with it. It only has about 30k on the complete rebuild.


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It may be time to change the drivetrain while the body is off. I have a 2f+4 speed and 1fz sitting in the garage. Or I could track down a 1f that was stock, with a three speed. I bought the 2f to maybe make a 2fe. I need to pick a lane and stay in it and free up the garage space. What would be the best investment here?

what is in it is pretty cool! Originallty would be what I would do if I had to change it from what you have now. 3fe and a 5 speed sounds like a dream for me though haha.

 

[cruiserkev]

"Colorectal" surgery was a success. The 40 sounds so much better now and hopefully I won't reek of exhaust fumes as much when driving it. Working on my next project of the day, a remote battery cut off switch to confuse thieves (or potentially myself when I forget it's there).

 

[EWheeler]

The radiator sprung a leak where the top tank is soldered to the core. The core was looking a little rough so pulled it and took it to Mrs. Boney in Wilmington for a new re-core. It is the rarer factory AC version so not available new/aftermarket.

I am at a cross roads with this truck. I am retiring again soon so it will not be a daily driver so much.

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It needs rust repair and paint which means the body is coming off the frame. I've been running this 3fe with H55f and split case for about 10 years and am happy with it. It only has about 30k on the complete rebuild.


View attachment 3386380

It may be time to change the drivetrain while the body is off. I have a 2f+4 speed and 1fz sitting in the garage. Or I could track down a 1f that was stock, with a three speed. I bought the 2f to maybe make a 2fe. I need to pick a lane and stay in it and free up the garage space. What would be the best investment here?

Leave it and enjoy it if there are not issues with engine or trans. For sure, do not go back to a 3 speed, you would surely regret that decision.

 

[red66toy]

Yeah only 30k on the clock on a system that runs well seems like a good reason to just keep enjoying it. 3FE in that thing must feel great. I feel like the old 1F feels peppy in a 40, so that extra hp and gear is great.

 

[Green Bean]

It is always nice to blend new with old. It is like reuniting long lost relatives after a 53 year hiatus.

 

[CondeCruiser]

Fixed my driver B pillar on my FST bows today. Real Steel sent me just the pillar portion and I cut it up to fix mine. Worked out pretty good. Little more grinding and some paint and it' will be good as somewhat new.

 

[Joe45]

I backed up my HJ45 Pickupp into a tree. Now I need to figure out how to repair the dented tailgate!

 

[Ackcruisers]

Changed the oil and went with the Denso 150-2066 available for about $6 from several sources including densoproducts.com. I must say, the Baldwin B2 that was in my truck felt more heavy duty. Then inspected the oil, spark plugs, washed it and then went for a drive.