What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (12 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Great idea... I’d like to do something similar with some rectangular tubing. 1/2”x1.5” or 3/4”x2”. I’d have to look at the tube to decide. Done right it could even look like like an OEM flair.

Sounds interesting!
 
I finally got back home from a business trip, so I’m back at it! I received new-to-me defrost vents to fill the holes I had, and found this little mini me at my Toyota dealer!

E2E58618-4D9C-458B-A4FA-AD3E8DAE787C.webp


03BBF8B8-145E-4F48-8DE5-E53A28AF6E72.webp
 
LelandEOD That’s a great color on your cruiser. I generally prefer stock colors, but that one gets and A+ from me. Better than the other greens T ever offered.
Take that back! :mad::)

It looks like Toyota 6H9 to me. I wanted to paint mine Olive first, then 6h9, but Nebula was my third choice. My wife wanted Rustic green, then deep green, then Nebula. So we both got our third choice LOL.
 
Michael how are you liking the KM3 tires? I have KO2’s but I hear the KM3’s fit rim a bit better and of course more durable. Thx

Tires are actually KM2s... I grabbed a set before they were NLA - I’ve no doubt the KM3 is a great tire as well, I just liked the 2’s tread design better. I went from American Racing wheels w/ 33x12.50 Goodyear Wranglers to stock wheels w/KM2s.... huge improvement in ride (I’ve tabled my pursuit of PS for now because it’s that much better!)
 
LelandEOD That’s a great color on your cruiser. I generally prefer stock colors, but that one gets and A+ from me. Better than the other greens T ever offered.

Thanks!

Like Gericurl mentioned, it actually is a factory FJ40 color. It's not correct for my '73 but it was used on later -40s. It's 6H9, Light Olive.
 
Nearly half way in on paint for STPCHLD and grabbed proof that solid Cruisers DO exist in the South... I've just never seen one this clean over the rear fenders here before.

I'm leaving the welding waves over the fender well on purpose. (The second shot still amazes me.)
IMG_2520.webp
IMG_2522.webp
IMG_2523.webp
 
@Dizzy
Saw your crack, I had the same one. Got it welded up while manifold was off.
Torqued the manifold nuts, installed a couple of screws on the ends - I know, it is like macro-brew out of a can if you are using Hillman hardware - see image. Then I spent a good hour or so, with the grinder, making the Aussie header's flange not rub against the 2F insulator plate. Installed the my newly rebuilt carb and discovered that the accelerator pump boot is already cracking. Then I had the idea of treating the OEM valve cover gasket with a bit of motor oil so that it won't get stuck on the head; the only issue was keeping it in the groove while I get the valve cover back on - it worked after I stretched it slightly so that it was closer to the size of the valve cover. Then I put the accelerator linkage on and topped it off with the air cleaner. Nothing but details the whole day, cleaning this, trying on that, finding screws that were lost two owners ago, using a re-threading tap because the air cleaner hasn't been properly fully installed on the engine for quite some time.

View attachment 1949238

View attachment 1949258
0BDDBFDF-DBF8-4AD0-8AF3-CE18FEB4B805.webp
 
@Dizzy
Saw your crack, I had the same one. Got it welded up while manifold was off.

View attachment 1951034

It is only cracked on one side. I will cap it from the bottom with either a fabricated plate, and use a header, or I will use a heat riser block-off plate with the stock exhaust, if I can figure out a clean way to cap the '75 USA EGR port, and source what I need for a down-pipe.

The intake manifold that the truck came with has a weld on the carb side. The weld there is subsequently cracked. It was welded on the exhaust side, that looks good, but I decided against installing it because it has been thru more carnage and repair.

cracked intake.webp


Cast metals don't weld that well.

I just purchased a set of manifolds from a '70 FJ55. This might open up some options, particularly sourcing an exhaust down-pipe. I hope that I can not have too much trouble switching to the stepped manifold studs in the head, but I might just save these for another project.

I really don't want to run headers, for reasons of fitment, heat insulation, longevity, deciding among the various design considerations of available offerings, and noise. I would like to get a good condition late 2F set-up here, but it seems expensive relative to just living with, even pricey, headers which are actually available new.
 
Cut out the wheel wells and installed some TJ fender flares after moving the axle back from a spring reversal.

View attachment 1947177

View attachment 1947179

View attachment 1947182

View attachment 1947184

View attachment 1947185

After a bit of cutting and sanding, looks like they were made for the FJ.
I just got a pair for $20- a bitscuffed up, but worth it. I got them home and not sold on them yet. They seem to be more coverage than I need. Still on the fence.
 
I just got a pair for $20- a bitscuffed up, but worth it. I got them home and not sold on them yet. They seem to be more coverage than I need. Still on the fence.

Nice deal, I got new oem replacements from amazon. Main reason I did it was because I wanted the extra drivetrain length for a future nv4500 swap.

Previously had the specter off road fender flares that looked good, and are a bit less wider than the jeeps.

IMG_20190126_1649237.webp
 
My DD passes her yearly emissions the first try so I rewarded her with new rear LED lites.

Made some custom box/guard mounts and got them installed and wired. I ordered the lights and resistors out or Australia , they arrived in about one week. (eBay).

The two factory holes where used to mount the new box/ guard.
TeiICQ5mSKKbRnBM5BnqvA.webp


All primed and painted.

e2f8NJujR3q8QgHjTbIzkg.webp

l2K7B0XgTi6fMK7soseDNg.webp

The light fixture fits and looks nice.
zIsEXmeoT22dNiBu6iSgfA.webp


With the shop light off and door closed these babies are damn bright. To be fair, I had all the light on.
IMG_0783.webp


I also had to rebuild the power steering pump. The bracket that supports the pump and smog pump was Toyotas design pitfall.
For those of you who owns a factory 2F with PS you know what I talking about. What a pain in the A$$.
 
It is only cracked on one side. I will cap it from the bottom with either a fabricated plate, and use a header, or I will use a heat riser block-off plate with the stock exhaust, if I can figure out a clean way to cap the '75 USA EGR port, and source what I need for a down-pipe.

The intake manifold that the truck came with has a weld on the carb side. The weld there is subsequently cracked. It was welded on the exhaust side, that looks good, but I decided against installing it because it has been thru more carnage and repair.

View attachment 1951117

Cast metals don't weld that well.

I just purchased a set of manifolds from a '70 FJ55. This might open up some options, particularly sourcing an exhaust down-pipe. I hope that I can not have too much trouble switching to the stepped manifold studs in the head, but I might just save these for another project.

I really don't want to run headers, for reasons of fitment, heat insulation, longevity, deciding among the various design considerations of available offerings, and noise. I would like to get a good condition late 2F set-up here, but it seems expensive relative to just living with, even pricey, headers which are actually available new.
Ah ok. Good to know. @FJ40Jim has all kinds of block off plates maybe he can get you what you need?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom