What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (62 Viewers)

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Worked on finishing my rear bumper. I built the main part earlier this past summer, and had long since planned on finishing it as the 100 is my daily driver, but my car received most of the attention this summer. So I finally got started on the wings, here's
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a shot from part way through.
 
Hood blackout from Crawlorado (@Isotel). Wore out the tape measure and my wife's patience and I think it's still an 1/8" too far driver!! Love it though so far.

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Next it's time to work on that BLING of a grill.

Cheers,
rjones
 
Fluidfilm underneath. Replace fuel filer an TOL line. 209k
 
I *finally* spent a little time on Hanzo, poor guy has gotten no love since the big run-up to HIH.

Swapped in 9011 and 9012 bulbs for the stockers, a little bit brighter, I would say 10%. Per The best Headlight bulb on the market today.

Pro tip- when you go to trim the tabs to fit the stock housings don't try to do it in one shot - I snapped off an entire tab that way. Nibble nibble nibble. Takes longer. but safer.

More excitingly, I installed a PIAA 10" LED Yellow Fog bar. This is real deal yellow, not painted or plastic covers.

Better be, dang thing cost just under $300. (I felt guilty for the long period of neglect)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...dd-20&linkId=52b670cd2d33521846d9a27e380ed9fb

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I have enough deer and lousy weather that I felt the money could pay for itself in deductibles, and while I haven't run it in inclement weather yet, it looks promising:

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(low beams, with and without the PIAA fog - Photo taken with a Fuji X100 on fixed aperture/shutter/iso/white balance to ensure apples to apples)

Like I mentioned above, the real deal fog light - nice, sharp cut-off so oncoming drivers are not affected:

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And the end result at the end of my night:

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Next up, rewire fogs without hi beams... maybe I'll get to by January? ;)
 
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I replaced my serpentine belt and tensioner. I already had the parts in my garage. I had ordered them a few weeks back after I started getting a little squeal on start up. I did mine today with help from this tutorial. Took about 90 minutes. When I checked the tensioner it was in real bad shape. It did not even try to return to the correct position when I took pressure off. I was only getting a little squealing at start up, I don't know how the belt was even staying on at all. I used OEM replacement parts for the belt and tensioner assembly (the replacement tensioner assembly had a noticeably more robust casting than the original) $88 all in from ebay. My 98 did not require me to remove the PS pump pulley. I used a bungee cord to suspend the alternator after I unbolted it. Also of note: the 2 bolts and 1 nut on my tensioner were 12mm, not 10mm as noted in the DIY instructions. These instructions probably saved me 45 minutes to an hour. I like to get quotes from local shops or dealerships so that I can feel good about how much money I am saving. Got 3 quotes for this work. Local shop $285 (parts and labor), Mobil mechanic service $435, dealership $496 (!). Thanks to all on Mud for your valuable time saving tips.
(Sorry, only one s***ty picture)
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My upper rear hatch had some rust holes near the lights and handles. Also the handle that opens the hatch was broken, it does not work from in- or outside. After a few weeks of searching I found a used one, expensive, but no rust at all and in very good condition.

While I was there I also picked up a console lid that was missing on my car.

I also sourced some new driver & passenger side door panels.

I got the parts from a cruiser that rolled on its roof. Drivers side had a lot of damage, windshield broken and the A-pillars were slightly deformed.
 
Replaced front and rear shocks with new OEM, replaced front and rear sway bar and end link bushings, added Slee 30mm coil spacers, adjusted the heck out of my torsion bars, and replaced my drive belt idler pulley.

For anyone thinking of replacing your rear shocks, it's possible to do without drilling holes in the floor, but you must have a 22mm ratcheting flex head wrench (and it's still a pain).

Currently sitting at 20.5" front / 22" rear. I'm going to let it settle for a few days then do final adjustments and get it aligned.

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Added a dual battery system to power the fridge, USB's and a light or two. Thanks to this forum for the inspiration and confidence to try this myself.

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Added a dual battery system to power the fridge, USB's and a light or two. Thanks to this forum for the inspiration and confidence to try this myself.

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Looks Nice and Clean....... now find the good quality black wire ties and replace all the white ones. :rofl:

Note that this kind of “crazy with the details” doesn’t come cheap, in time or money. I took at least an hour this weekend to remove all the skid plate bolts and put anti seize on. I had put the skids back on just the week before at night in poor light and had omitted the anti seize.
 
Just ordered sway bar links and bushings etc for my 99 LC and 06 LX.

Same parts for both, correct? I guess I should have checked here first.....
100 series with AHC have different rear sway bar bushing, reason is sway bar is a lighter gauge.
 
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Sorry, those are the hub studs.

Yes, these parts would be applicable for all 100 series trucks.

This job is easy but critical.

I do 30k intervals for bearing repacked. This conforms to Toyota’s “severe” usage maintenance schedule.


I'll stop by on December 8th or 9th and we can do this to my hundy lol
 

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