What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (66 Viewers)

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2006
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Try cutting inch or so off the hose!

That's the plan, just need to get around to it. Didn't feel like waiting for the truck to cool and messing with coolant at the time.
 
Haha, I do that all the time, my wife hates it...... Not really but it might explain why my paint isn't so nice compared with some of the mall crawlers on here. We live in the Ozarks basically in the Mark Twain National Forest. Some of the best adventures start that way.

Any good drives that you recommend?
 
Can you share install info? Thought we couldn't add decks to navigation?

Hah, I've been waiting on someone to do that! I've been thinking of doing the same thing.

SocalMB, basically you're separating the audio system from the Nav. You rewire the speaker system and remove the factory amp and drive it from the new headunit or an aftermarket amplifier.
 
Took a 4000+ mile road trip from Bellingham to Albuquerque and back. Went through 5 National Parks (Canyonlands, Arches, Petrified Forest, Grand Canyon, and Death Valley), and 1 National Monument (El Morro).

Didn't do any camping unfortunately, as we don't have winter camping setup for the kids. We did however do tons of exploring in the Cruiser,which performed PHENOMENAL for a 17 year old vehicle! I even got 16 mpg on one tank!
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I installed my BIO rear bumper last week as well, but I can't get the damn threads in the frame to line back up for the wing bracket bolts. Frustrating at hell...I may just have to weld them.
Same problem here to Blue! The only one that wouldn't line up for me was the ps rear hitch bolt. I talked to Mike about it, he said its a common problem with the early 100's, the thread in my frame is not straight, it was a pain to remove! If you look at new hitches they don't even use that as a mounting point now! I may weld or find a newer hitch!

Those BIO rear bumpers look so damn good! I needss!
They are!!

Try loosening all the other mounting bolts : frame and the back two by the hitch, get the wings started and tight those first then tighten all the rest.
I couldn't get that one bolt started with nothing there! I will try and get some pics, may look at new hitch that doesn't use that point. Like this 1998 Toyota Land Cruiser Trailer Hitch | etrailer.com
 
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Removed the rear badging, clay bar treatment and wax.

Removed all the letters then used a 3M Eraser Wheel to remove all the excess gunk/residue. The eraser wheel was well worth the $$. There were trace amounts of residue and dirt remaining after the eraser wheel had done its job, so I used small amounts of Turtle Wax Bug and Tar Remover and a small drill-powered buffer to finish the job. Worked wonders. Highly recommend both the eraser wheel and the turtle wax product.
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Got lots of little things done on my day off...

Installed an underhood LED light bar with auto switch when the hood opens.
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Got my ScanGauge 2 mounted with a RAM Mount. Nice and out of the way of the dash board warning lights.
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Installed a fire extinguisher on the Slee tire carrier.
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yeah plugs at 100k, but I don't think 3 coil packs(all were original 2000 vintage) and 2 O2 sensors are bad in the 100K I have put on it(had 70K when bought)

Seems excessive for mileage, have you serviced your spark plugs!

I agree, LPS is great stuff.
 
Got lots of little things done on my day off...

Installed an underhood LED light bar with auto switch when the hood opens.
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Got my ScanGauge 2 mounted with a RAM Mount. Nice and out of the way of the dash board warning lights.
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Installed a fire extinguisher on the Slee tire carrier.
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How did you do the auto switch. I have been holding off on my under hood light wiring, cause I haven't found a switch approach I like. Please share "Photos" of the interesting bits.
 
Had been planning on replacing my front and rear brake pads and rotors, and replacing the front wheel bearings. Ordered all the parts before Christmas, and just spent the weekend doing the work. I used Akebono ProACT Ultra-Premium ceramic pads ($95 from Amazon), EBC Premium zinc-plated rotors ($171 from AutoAnything), and the front wheel bearing kit from Cruiser Outfitters ($193).

After reading a bunch of threads on this site, watching some tutorials, and downloading some pages from the FSM, the job was pretty straightforward, although time consuming. I took my time, and took frequent breaks to make sure I was doing each step properly, as I've never done this DIY project before, and was a little apprehensive, especially with the front bearings. When I removed the calipers, I noticed a couple of the caliper slide pins were sticking, so I disassembled, cleaned, and lubricated all of those. Then I took a few extra minutes to spray paint each caliper in a nice "hammered" gunmetal finish (Rustoleum). Looks really nice next to the black zinc-coated rotors.

The only tools I had to buy that I didn't already have in my garage were:

54mm hub socket - $14 on eBay
Brass drift bar - $8 (set of 3) from Northern Tools
Lisle bearing packer - $18 on Amazon
Snap ring pliers - $7 from Northern Tools

Now, I'm just waiting on the weather to clear up and stop raining, so I can go out and do a proper brake pad/rotor bed-in procedure.

I really appreciate all the information and expertise on this site that made this a fun DIY job for under $500, instead of paying $2,500 to a dealer, or $1,500 to a local mechanic. I think with all this money I just saved, I'm ordering a new Dissent Front Bumper. Oh yeah!!!
 

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