68 ohm resistor to replace stereo on NAV equipped LC and LX

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I'm not the first to do this, pucker5 posted a few days ago without pics. There was talk about it before, I just didn't try it. But I did today.

This comes from prius people and I found some other info from avalon forums also.
If you put a 68 ohm .5 watt resistor on the C plug pins 9 and 10, (blue and pink on 2006) everything works as it should and you can take the stereo out and put whatever you want in that slot.

The middle plug, C, has the tx wires, that's where the resistor goes. Blue and pink wires.
the other two plugs can stay unplugged. (A and B)

Obviously there are some conditions. The power antenna won't work. Put a fixed tundra antenna in. The rear seat audio won't work, delete it and put some UBS chargers in there. Steering wheel buttons won't work, Get the PAC universal for your aftermarket deck so they do. CD changer doesn't work also. That's it far as I know.

Personally I have a kenwood media shallow mount deck, a JL and a RF amp to two sets of speakers in the doors and a 10" punch sub in the back in it's own box.
I do not use the stock SUB wiring, sub box, or the HU stock wiring to the speakers at that connection.
I do use the stock speaker wires where they come out of the stock amp under the pass seat.
My stuff is wired as if it was a fresh install except using the speaker wiring at the output of the stock amp.

The point is that you can delete the OEM deck and all climate controls work the way they should.
I wish I had a female socket so I wouldn't have to cut the harness, but I did anyway and everything is fine.

I only use the display for back up cam. It never comes on except when in reverse. I put the climate screen on and took a pic so you guys could see. Everything works fine. I tested and measured before I cut the harness.

I'm going to alter the stock silver face to accept a ISO DIN HU maybe tomorrow.

Yes the bottom buttons work. defrost, rear AC etc.
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dogdaysindurham

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Thanks for posting this!

Keep us posted on your luck with making a bezel for the single din. Potentially one could 3D print the right shape piece?

This seems like a good work around to get a new stereo head unit in there without having to rip out the dash and replace the wiring harness. I haven't been able to find a non-nav ac controller, wiring harness, etc... to do the manual knob conversion on my 05.

Although my MFD touch sceen no longer responds (it does kick in and show the rear camera when backing up), I had liked using it for the MPG estimations. So will probably try to do the solder repair sometime this spring.
 
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I had a bezel, but I messed it up in the oven. I'm waiting on another one.
Metra 89-40-0500 ISO DIN Trim Ring. 4$ or so.
any deck you get can mount with the existing screws in the metal plates the original deck mounts on.
(the black screws in the pic) I measured about 7.25 from back wall to gray plastic face of stock deck.
I'm pretty sure a standard depth mount single DIN will mount in place without a problem. I do not know if a standard depth mount deck will work with standard straight mount RCA jacks. I'm pretty sure it would work with 90 degree RCA adapters. Any risers will work on the face to extend the depth you could use.

I cut a 2x7 inch hole in the plastic face of the stock deck with a dremel, like in the pic.
You need the stock plastic to act as a backer for whatever face you put on top of if. All pretty standard. The only thing I had to buy was the iso din trim ring, again.
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here's a pic of the trim plate I've used a few times. Easy to cut, sand the square corners, paint if you like. Grey 3m vinyl would be great, I just don't have the energy. I've had the deck mounted in two other places in the truck so far. So I'm done with the stereo with this one. (but car audio is never done)



Oh, of all the grounds behind the dash, under the shifter, and under the CD changer in the LC, none of them are good except the stock navigation chassis ground. The is the one right under the passenger front seat at the leading edge with the white and black striped wire. All inputs to aftermarket deck = extremely low noise floor.



If anyone needs help I'm always around.

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I am very interested in this! I am so sick of using a tape adapter!

I would really prefer to ditch the MFD and convert to standard AC controls, but that might be some time down the road.
 
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So you had a head unit in that little upholstered piece and now you have it installed in the dash? I would be interested in going either of these routes. Did you have any problems with the unit installed above the cupholders?
 
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So you had a head unit in that little upholstered piece and now you have it installed in the dash? I would be interested in going either of these routes. Did you have any problems with the unit installed above the cupholders?
I just didn't like it in that spot. I like the cupholders. It's a perfect spot for a deck though. If I remember it measures 8x4 inches. I just had that stuff laying around so that experiment was free.
Where the ashtray is, in that panel, is a better spot. Space and configuring a mount is problematic though. I don't think I have a picture of that.
 
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Metra says that one out of ten pruis's, their solution doesn't work. I have read online that people report that it didn't work until after they reset the car's battery for an hour or so. I checked mine before I did anything with just the resistor.

BUT yes, if you use the aftermarket deck's speaker output wires and connect them to the speaker output wires as they come out of the ML amp under the passenger's seat. In that case I would chose the four door speakers for the four wires out of the new deck, and I assume there are passive crossovers in the forward door's tweeters like the LC. I've never looked at a speaker layout or EWD of a LX. Aren't there more speakers in the LX than the LC? You need the EWD to really be sure.

You'd have to examine the output off the ML amp with regards to tweeter and sub wiring, and from the NAV output/crossover harness for the driver's side speaker NAV voice. You're after the four door's speaker wires so however you get them is fine. New wire, splice at door penetrater, or splice at amp.
You'd have to fix the antenna issue with something like this. Tundra Fixed Antenna Install w/ Part Numbers
The antenna replacement is harder than installing a new working deck. IMHO
I should say that the thread title does say LX and LC but honestly IDK about the LX. I didn't do that on purpose, I just assumed.
If someone posts the LX ML amp and HU diagrams I could look at them. Sorry if that confuses people.
 
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just an update.
I swapped to a pioneer avh x7800bt. full mount depth, dvd, flip out screen etc.
I also installed an axxess ASWC-1 steering wheel controller.
That wiring goes like this, standard for all toyotas but this is land cruiser specific.
AXXESS black to chassis GRND
AXXESS red to +12 acc. (not constant 12v)
AXXESS black-green to pin #8 on plug C, that wire is black/red
AXXESS green-orange to pin #7 on plug C, that wire is white/red.

That's it for the axxess harness.
Car side needs pin #6 which is brown (sgrnd) grounded to chassis. This is the same as AXXESS black wire to ground. You're essentially grounding the combo switch on the steering wheel. Without plug C plugged into the radio it see's no coneections before you wire it up.

It works perfect, no delay. I thought there qould be.
The pioneer deck will mount as it should. They insist you use a cage/sleeve, which is F-ed, but whatever. I posted a thread on that last week I think.

The problem is all the wiring that really takes all the space back there. I used a 90 degree USB adapter on the rear of the pioneer. The rest is all regular.

I wired everything I possible could to this thing so I wouldn't have to take it apart again. (minus red-white-yellow output from deck)

I wired a micro USB inverter to power a chromcast in the console with an isimple non powered red white yellow RCA output to HDMI for the chromecast to cast my phone. (because it's a nexus phone, none of them support hdmi out)
iphone would be way easier. Problem with mine is that I need another phone or tablet to hotspot a wifi. I'll probably never use it, but it's there.

I put it all together and forgot to paint the cover ring. But it looks fine.

I went back to a metra toyota 20 pin to get red and yellow wires to not molest the A plug.
The C plug is the only one I cut into, pins 10-6, steering wheel, and TX lines. .

I used a metra trim spacer, 3/8", metra cover ring, and the rest is pioneer. It sticks out 3/8" further than it would in a straight install.
It's very nice to get the steering wheel buttons back.

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jerryb, what are your thoughts on doing this mod to a 2001 w/ Gen 2 MFD and Gen 3 Nav ECU? Here's a pic of a 2001 tape deck from google. Wondering if this mod works with a 2001 harness, and how difficult a faceplate cover would be to make. As you can see the tape deck for this model is above the clock/temp module.


 
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If the hole where your deck is is at least 2x7 inches I'd do it.
Also there's a lx owner that moved the screen to the center console. He extended the wires with Ethernet jacks.

Your oem screen bezel looks easier to put a double din in with its own nav, than the newer bezel I think that's in the 03 plus models.
I'm getting ready to move my screen like the lx owner and go to the pioneer 8200.

Right now the only thing left if my set up is the screen and the back up cam ecu.
Here is the screen extension thread.
This should be really easy for anyone to do if you've ever installed your own stereo.

Successfully Moved Navigation Screen To Make Room Pioneer AVIC-8200
 
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the two plugs on the back of the screen m6b and m5a to extend where ever you want the screen to go. 17 wires total for me.
m7c is for the cd changer. Gone in my case. I put the screen in the console. The two small connectors at the screen someone already posted about those. There's 15 wires there to extend also.

From the m6b plug I took 4 wires and on the m5a I took 13.
I'm mostly finished, it's taken about 20 hours. I was going to get another stock stereo face plate to put in there to make it look decent. But another $100 for a used stock stereo isn't happening. I wrapped the hole where the other pioneer deck was with 3m vinyl. One really good thing, if you remove the stock deck it's an excellent place to stash the wiring and your black AC control box. There is plenty of space for a double din deck back there, that was the easy part. The dremmeling, sanding, filing and drilling custom mounts and stuff is the hard part. If I bought another 100 I wouldn't do this again.
What I really like is that there's nothing under my passenger seat but an amp.
I'm still finishing the cosmetic stuff. Ill put some more pics up tomorrow.

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What I really like is that there's nothing under my passenger seat but an amp.
Does adding the 68 ohm resistor allow you to remove both the factory radio and the amp?
I know you've done a lot of replacing, for now I'm thinking to leave the factory nav/AC display and controls in place, but replace the radio and amp with all aftermarket completely stand-alone (Focal speakers fed by 8 channel JL audio DSP and JL Audio 8 channel sub). I think I prefer simple stereo as long as I can connect my phone via USB and BT. But I would love to remove as much of the factory audio as possible to make more room for the good stuff :)
 
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Does adding the 68 ohm resistor allow you to remove both the factory radio and the amp?
I started with the deck and bypassed the stock amp and added another one. Then I removed the stock amp. Nothing changed when I did that. Nav and AC still worked normal. But I would study the wiring diagram first. For sure you can replace the head unit and the amp.
I have a kenwood shallow mount and a pioneer AVH-X7800BT for sale here for anyone that wants it. For Sale - kenwood and pioneer decks, JL and RF class D amps.

Here's where mine is at the moment, with pioneer 8200 nex. I'm looking for a stock faceplate blank to put the hole so it looks stock. It's hard to pay more than a 100 for a deck when all you want is the plastic face. I'm pretty amazed how good the avic 8200 nex is.

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Cool to see a work around.

Completely unacceptable that the systems are tied together as they are. No reason that changing a radio should have an affect with the AC controls, or any other systems for that matter.
 
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