50-50 harbor freight yellow degreaser and water solution in a spray bottle, a detailing brush and this to refresh the plastic and rubber components without the greasy and tacky finish.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week?
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found a small leak on my LF calipers at the banjo and wasn’t sure what was causing it Also Had an intermittent issue that seemed like a caliper was sticking so decided to baseline and got OEM calipers and brake lines from IMPEX.
Never done a full brake job like that before either but between this forum and YT, had lots of references to follow. Lots of disparity in procedures that guys have used so that was a little confusing. I saw @2001LC detailed post after I did the job and wished I would’ve found it first but it is done now and brakes feel great.
One thing I found is the dealerships wanted $135 per soft line and $32 per banjo. Even the crush washer was $25 per. Good god.
I also ordered too many rear lines from frame to axle, not realizing LSD and ATRAC have different lines. So, if anyone needs rear factory lines for ATRAC hit me up. I will be cheaper than a dealership.
Never done a full brake job like that before either but between this forum and YT, had lots of references to follow. Lots of disparity in procedures that guys have used so that was a little confusing. I saw @2001LC detailed post after I did the job and wished I would’ve found it first but it is done now and brakes feel great.
One thing I found is the dealerships wanted $135 per soft line and $32 per banjo. Even the crush washer was $25 per. Good god.
I also ordered too many rear lines from frame to axle, not realizing LSD and ATRAC have different lines. So, if anyone needs rear factory lines for ATRAC hit me up. I will be cheaper than a dealership.
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Earlier this month, my mechanic replaced my 26-year-old leaky rack and pinion with a new remanufactured OEM R&P. While he was in there, the outer tie-rod ends were replaced with 555 units, and the R&P bushing was replaced with an OEM unit. Truck drives like it's new... for the most part. I still need to refresh the rest of the suspension and get my hands on some new front upper- and lower-control arm bushings. Can't wait for my lift kit and sliders to come in so that those can be installed too.
As for what I did this week, I installed an OEM 1997 Camry/ES300 Charcoal Canister to replace the OEM one, as the Land Cruiser and 1st Gen Tundra Charcoal Canisters are no longer in production.
As for what I did this week, I installed an OEM 1997 Camry/ES300 Charcoal Canister to replace the OEM one, as the Land Cruiser and 1st Gen Tundra Charcoal Canisters are no longer in production.
Regarding the broken bolt… you’ve gotta fix that. Eventually, the bushing retainer will deflect and cause more problems. Probably sooner rather than later.
I have had great success by drilling out the exact center of the broken bolt remnants… center punch the exact center… using a full drill index, start small, and continue stepping up the size of the drill until you reach the drill size recommended for tapping the hole. Then try a broken bit extractor… and/ or left hand drill bits…
I use Rapid Tap fluid for drilling and tapping, and lots of PB blaster to penetrate and loosen up corroded bolts. Maybe even run the broken bolt all the way through, if the back of the bolt is covered in corrosion.
After extracting the broken bit, run the appropriate tap through to clean up the threads in the captive nut. Then the new bolt should thread in without issue.
New bolt is Toyota Part # 90119-08B50
$2 each at Toyota Online Parts Center.
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What did the rack and pinion replacement (parts and labor) cost you? It's on my to do list and I'm thinking about having my shop do it rather than tackle it myself.
I tried extracting it. Wouldn’t budge, wasn’t even rusty. I ended up drilling it all the way through and still the threads remained, reamed it a bit. I put a bolt and nut on. I may go back and tap it one size up, but will this suffice?
That will suffice. As long as both ends of the bushing retainer are bolted…
Is the new bolt and nut, that you installed, smaller diameter than the M8x1.25 pitch original bolt? SAE bolt or M6? Would be good to have an OEM M8 bolt in that position for the benefit of better corrosion protection offered by the OEM bolts. If this strategy fails, 4 series stainless steel bolt and nut will suffice. 4 series stainless is stronger than 3 series.
You were able to pass a drill bit through the remnants of the old bolt… if you used a 6.9mm, or 17/64 drill bit ( the correct size for M8x1.25 tap), you may be able to get a standard M8x1.25 tap to start and cut clean threads through… use plenty of Rapid Tap fluid. Or the Rapid Tap paste. Clean with brake cleaner after tapping to remove milling debris. Then copper coat on the bolt threads.
A bottoming tap probably won’t work, but a standard tap with tapered lead end should do the trick. Go slow and keep working it a little at a time. Just like tapping threads into a steel blank. Bolts are hard, but taps are much harder on the Rockwell scale.
Just my thoughts…
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Is that crack location the most common spot? I have a tick as well but haven’t seen anything on the manifold itself so not sure if it’s a crack or something entirely different
I’m pretty sure that’s where a lot of cracks appear. I couldn’t see anything when it was on either.
Ticks caused by manifolds cracks are common on the early years of the 100. It’s also worth checking your spark plugs as they can back out and cause a tick. I’d not caught in time one can blow out and cause major issues.
Forgot to mention I’m using a @LJE fuse box mounting bracket for the switch and fuse block
Auxbeam/Switchpro Switchboard Engine Bay Mounting Brackets
Our ever popular engine bay mounting brackets, designed by Lumberjack Engineering and produced by The Artisan Garage. ***Please be sure you are selecting the correct item for your vehicle model AND year*** These are specifically engineered and validated with the Auxbeam RA80 & RA80XL & Switchpro...
theartisangarage.com
These brackets are now laser cut right here at LJE HQ!Forgot to mention I’m using a @LJE fuse box mounting bracket for the switch and fuse block
Auxbeam/Switchpro Switchboard Engine Bay Mounting Brackets
Our ever popular engine bay mounting brackets, designed by Lumberjack Engineering and produced by The Artisan Garage. ***Please be sure you are selecting the correct item for your vehicle model AND year*** These are specifically engineered and validated with the Auxbeam RA80 & RA80XL & Switchpro...theartisangarage.com
(that's right, freakin' laser beams!)
@LJE Product idea! Winch control box relocation bracket. I repurposed a Slee dual battery tray BCDC mount but might change it up to get more airflow.
On thought would be a similar bracket with a cut out for air flow but that goes lower so the box is more in line with the lower front fascia and ideally have a second mount at the bottom. There weren’t a lot of options for useable mounting points down there though.
Ended up doing a m8 helicoil. First time doing this, i went a little too far past and had to cut the tab. It was a bit of a struggle threading the bolt in after that. I’m afraid to remove the bolt now.
Is this helicoil permanent? I imagine I could pull it out with needle nose and rethread. Either way it’s secure for now.
I had a crack in mine as well with the tick sound, ran me about 1700 at a shop.
Over the last 2 weeks I replaced every suspension and steering component and bushings front to back, all OEM - and my 1999 drives like a dreamy floating land yacht. Just how I like it, gliding over bumps and potholes. More relaxing drive for sure. Big pile of work but so worth it.
Next up: replace both front seat bottom cushions and re-leather.
My 2003 LC100 was originally automatic, I just converted it to a H151 5 speed manual, was a seamless conversion. I also got rid of the AWD transfer case (4HI, N L4) where you had to lock the center diff with the button and made the switch to the 1998-2002 part time transfer case (2WD, 4HI, N, L4). I plan on wielding the rear differential as well open diff gives too much understeer during sand dune crests, with the open diff I have to rely on loading and unloading with the throttle to keep it straight with excessive steering.
Had a blast testing it in the sand dunes.
The only mods from stock are:
Exhaust: 4-2-1 long tube headers with 3 inch downpipes catless and a straight through mid muffler and 3 inch tail pipe resonator.
Cold air intake, the classic K & N one.
The 2UZ-FE is spectacular for a stock engine on stock ECU to perform this well, thing glides through the dunes, all this in 45c ambient summer temps. Cant wait to switch to a standalone ECU, ill go with a Maxxecu Race GEN 2 with dual LSU 5.2 lambda.
Had a blast testing it in the sand dunes.
The only mods from stock are:
Exhaust: 4-2-1 long tube headers with 3 inch downpipes catless and a straight through mid muffler and 3 inch tail pipe resonator.
Cold air intake, the classic K & N one.
The 2UZ-FE is spectacular for a stock engine on stock ECU to perform this well, thing glides through the dunes, all this in 45c ambient summer temps. Cant wait to switch to a standalone ECU, ill go with a Maxxecu Race GEN 2 with dual LSU 5.2 lambda.