'98 LC100 — Two Years In: Full Build & Resto Thread
Charlotte, NC | 1998 Toyota Land Cruiser | ~276k miles
Charlotte, NC | 1998 Toyota Land Cruiser | ~276k miles
// 00 — INTRO
Finally putting this all in one place. Picked up this '98 LC100 about two years ago and it's been a steady, intentional build ever since — no single dramatic transformation, just a lot of time, research, and doing things right. I've leaned heavily on this forum for both inspiration and advice throughout.
Covering everything: the purchase, mechanical work, exterior mods, interior refresh and sound deadening, the full audio build, overland exterior upgrades by TEQ Customs in Raleigh, and some lessons learned. Hopefully useful for someone going down the same road.
// 01 — THE PURCHASE
Found this one locally in Charlotte. The 2UZ-FE V8 was strong, drove straight, no smoke — the bones were solid and no rust issues and had the center and rear locker. Like most LC100s at this age it needed attention everywhere: fluids, suspension, brakes, and a good clean inside and out. When I saw the timing belt change and compared that to the current odometer, it was clear it sat for the past few years.
Plan from day one: a well-sorted, capable daily driver. Not a crawler, not a trailer queen — just a properly built LC that looks and runs like it should.
// 02 — MECHANICAL & MAINTENANCE
Before any of the fun stuff, the truck needed a full mechanical once-over before spending money on mods. Noticed a power steering leak and rough idle which I cleared up after changing the fuel filter and cleaning the throttle body. The P1126 error popped up a few times, but never resulted in 'creep mode' and hasn't returned since I cleaned the MAF sensor and throttle body. I drained the front/rear diff, changed the oil, fresh fluids throughout and then drove for a few hundred miles on the bouncy suspension and loose steering.
Also tracked down a water intrusion issue on the passenger side kick panel. Went down the full rabbit hole — sunroof drains, windshield seals, exterior vents. Sealant failure at the upper right interior windshield corner was the culprit. Fixed, dry ever since.
What got done:
- Brakes: Full replacement — pads and rotors all around
- Steering: New steering rack & pinion
- Cooling: New radiator and thermostat
- Fluids: All fluids — oil, trans, diffs, transfer case, coolant, a/c flush & fill
- Sunroof Drains: Cleaned and cleared — part of water intrusion diagnosis
- Paint: pressure wash, clay bar, polish, wax
- Cabin Air Filter: Main cabin air filter added
- Evaporator Cover: Leaky cover — OEM fix via Cruiser Patch
- Seat Belt: Middle seat belt replaced (dog chewed through the belt from the looks) — OEM p/n 73301-60181-B0
- Console Cover: Console box hole cover for phone storage — OEM p/n 58839-60040
Water Intrusion Note: Passenger side kick panel getting wet is a known LC100 issue. Before pulling the windshield, clean the sunroof drains and check the sealant at the upper right interior windshield corner. That fixed mine — saved a lot of time and money chasing the wrong thing.
// 03 — EXTERIOR MODS & BUILD
— Cosmetic Refresh —
Wrapped the exterior trim panels in 3M 2080 M230 Matte Gray Aluminum vinyl — a significant upgrade over the faded factory plastic. Also replaced the rain guards, rear wiper blade (LX470 resin kit fits perfectly), rear spoiler gaskets, and outer door window molding.
[Factory wiper]
[New LX470 resin wiper blade]
- Trim Vinyl: 3M 2080 M230 Matte Gray Aluminum — all exterior trim panels
- Adhesion: 3M Exterior Attachment Tape + 3M Adhesion Promoter 111
- Rain Guards: Auto Ventshade outside mount rain guards
- Rear Wiper: Toyota LX470 resin rear wiper blade kit
- Door Trim: Outer door window molding trim — replaced
- Spoiler: Rear spoiler replaced
- Snorkel: Dobinsons snorkel kit and upgraded it with a Sy-Klone pre-cleaner on top.
Worked with TEQ Customs (Hunter Gill) in Raleigh for the build: front and rear bumpers, winch, lights, side steps, suspension, and wheels/tires. The whole team there is top notch!
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Suspension, Wheels & Tires
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- Suspension: Dobinsons IMS Kit * UCAs — full install with alignment
- Wheels: Nomad — 17", set of 5 including full-size spare
- Tires: Falken Wildpeak AT4 285/70/17 E-Load — set of 5
- Front Bumper: Dobinsons — steel, winch-ready, bull bar, integrated light mounts
- Winch: Warn Evo 10S — 10,000 lb capacity
- Driving Lights: ARB Solis (spot/flood)
Dobinsons rear bumper with dual swingout arms — full-size spare on the bumper. Later added the ARB tire carrier and an ARB Squadron S2 light above the license plate (ARB discontinued their license plate light). Works great as a reverse/work light - super bright! I tapped into the factory reverse light.
I also added a Sherpa Oxford roof rack. Install should have been simple enough, however two of my factory bolts were rusted and reuired drilling out before I could put the new rack in.
- Rear Bumper: Dobinsons — full steel, dual swingout arms
- Tire Carrier: ARB swingout — full-size spare mounted
- Rear Light: ARB Squadron S2 — mounted above license plate
- Roof Rack: Sherpa — low-profile, LC100-specific fit
- Side Steps: Dobinsons — with fender protection hoop, both sides
// 04 — INTERIOR REFRESH
— Sound Deadening —
The LC100 cabin is large and highway wind/road noise is noticeable stock. Layered approach throughout — did the full tear-down: pulled all the seats, door panels, entire cargo floor, side walls. When I pulled the passenger seat and lifted the insultation I could tell water had gotten there at some point which let me down the rabbit hole of all the possible spots (mine ended up being a combo of clogged sunroof drain line and an interior windshield leak on passenger side) I did NOT drop the roof liner, though will probably want to knock that out at some point. I laid down Kilmat (generic Dynamat), MLV and high density foam. After I swapped the speakers I also replaced the polyethylene which was ripped on some of them and sealed with butyl sealant. When I put the interior back together many of the plastic clips needed replacing which I was able to find on Amazon (red, yelllow, white). As I installed I put tesa tape around the openings to ensure a good fit and also cut down on rattles.
(pulled all the seat and carpet)
- Layer 1: Kilmat (butyl damping mat)
- Layer 2: Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV)
- Layer 3: Closed Cell Foam
- Sealing: Tesa tape around all clips and edges + Butyl sealant tape for polyethelene on door panels
— Deep Clean —
Chemical Guys Foaming Fabric Clean on all fabric, Hard Water for glass and hard surfaces, Bissell Little Green for extraction, Ryobi medium bristle for agitation. Gummi Pflege on all door seals to refresh them (had to swap a few that were shot under hood, rear hatch). The cabin cleaned up really well!
After all that effort I added the weathertec mats (front, middle row and cargo since I'm not using 3rd row seats). As others in forum have noted the passenger front mat doesn't line up perfectly, but gets the job done.
— Steering Wheel, Shifter & Controls —
Wrapped the steering wheel in a Lunkcky genuine leather cover (PITA to sew in, but worth the effort) and added a leather AT gear shift handle cover. I used a heat gun to remove the faced/cracking wood interior and replaced it after cleaning with Goo Gone/alcohol and applying a 3M adhesion promoter. I also went through a replaced all the interior bulbs with LED's (white in dash/green on console/seat heaters)
The cabin looks amazing!
[Steering wheel cover]
[Shifter cover]
— Rear Molle Panels/Recovery & Overland Gear —
The Victory 4x4 Molle panels were easy to install and have been great to get my gear up and off the ground. I may consider a drawer system later, but for now the storage in back has been great for family trips.
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— ScanGauge —
Ben3D make a very clean mount and the install is very easy running the power down the driver side A-pillar to OBD port. It looks great! The speedometer is in the center as the bigger tires throw off the factory gauge - will deal with that down the line....
It's also been helpful to see the engine temp and other critical info during longer trips.
- Steering Wheel: Lunkcky custom genuine leather cover
- Gear Shifter: AT gear shift handle leather cover (AliExpress)
- Gauge: ScanGauge 3 Advanced — rearview mirror mount
- Interior LEDs: Full LED bulb swap — green T4 for controls and seat heaters
- Tail Lights: LED bulb swap — pulled and rewired
- Floor Mats: WeatherTech — front and rear
- Panel Clips: Rexka interior panel pins — red, white, yellow
- Door Seals: Gummi Pflege applied around all door seals
// 05 — FULL AUDIO BUILD
I just completed the final step of the stereo build with the addition of the amp, which completely transformed the sound and woke up the new speakers. I designed a full system from scratch — new head unit, component front stage, subwoofer, and a 5-channel amp running everything from one clean install.
I originally installed a pair of Dayton TCP115-4 4" woofers in the factory enclosure when I changed out the component speakers It was an improvement over the paper cones, but nothing like the kicker upgrade.
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System Spec
- Head Unit: JVC KW-V660BT — 6.8" touchscreen, Apple CarPlay / Android Auto
- Wireless AA: Jemluse Android Auto wireless adapter
- Rear Camera: JVC KV-CM30U
- Wiring Harness: Metra 70-8112
- Amplifier: JL Audio RD900/5 — 5-channel, 75Wx4 + 300Wx1 @ 4 ohm
- Amp Kit: 46PK4 4-gauge amp wiring kit
- Subwoofer: Kicker CWRT672 — dual 2 ohm DVC, wired series to 4 ohm
- Front Speakers: Pioneer TS-C1650X — 6.5" component set
- Gain Control: JL Audio RBC-1 remote bass knob
- Power: Fuse tap — DOME fuse (constant 12V) + cigar fuse (switched)
- Input Mode: 6-channel (required for RBC-1 sub control)
- Crossover: 80Hz HPF front stage / 80Hz LPF sub channel
- Amp Location: Under passenger seat — hidden, accessible
Door Speaker Install
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Wiring Layout
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I used 9-wire to connect to the factory harness at the amp location under passenger seat.
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RBC-1 Remote Gain Knob
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Subwoofer — Kicker CWRT672 in Factory Enclosure
The factory rear enclosure in the LC100 has a hidden cavity behind the third row that most people don't realize exists. Perfect home for a compact sub — completely hidden, zero cargo space lost. Had to cut and modify the opening to fit the CWRT672 using a kit on eBay, but once it's in it looks factory.
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Final Result
// 06 — WHERE IT STANDS
Two years in and the truck is dialed in. Mechanically solid, sounds great, looks right. For me it's the right mix of luxury on the interior while being a really capable overland vehicle. I'm approaching 300K and it performs amazing. I may look at change the gearing in the future and look at additional overland mods depending on how my use of this one evolves. It's been easy to work on and the community here is incredibuly supportive. I'm actively looking for another 100 or 200 as another project build.
Happy to answer questions on any of it — especially the audio build since LC100-specific content for modern installs is thin. Ask away.
Seth_CLT · Charlotte, NC · 1998 Land Cruiser LC100 · CRZR GT