What have you done to your 100 Series this week?

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Any chance of photos with the plastic seat backs removed? I did the Mosley kit, but they have absolutely ghosted me in every way each time I've tried to ask them how they stuffed the thermoelectric cooler and ducting on the seatback. At the moment, I haven't been able to reinstall my seatbacks for over a year.

Still though, good leather & the cooling is nice! Definitely a ton of work to swap the leather as compared to any of the other Toyotas I've ever done.
Here’s the back of the seat with the vent installed - this is all I have for the rear of the seats.
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Here’s the back of the seat with the vent installed - this is all I have for the rear of the seats.
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Now you need some of these...

Or at least two of these:

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Now you need some of these...

Or at least two of these:

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Ordered the latter today! 😆
 
I had a full set of Michelin tires installed, including the spare tire, at Costco. They snapped a wheel lug on the front driver side hub. They said the wheel nut would not come off. They have done the last 5-6 tire rotations on the previous set of tires and no other shop has removed or reinstalled the tires in that time frame. My guess is they either overtighten it or crossthreaded it. I can't think of another reason. I am not a happy camper at all.
 
Now you need some of these...

Or at least two of these:

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alternate for those looking for a cheaper or OEM look: Gold - 1/8 inch Shock Cord - https://www.paracordplanet.com/gold-1-8-shock-cord/
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Credit: How To: Repair Sagging Seat Back Pocket on LC - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-repair-sagging-seat-back-pocket-on-lc.813378/
 
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Now you need some of these...

Or at least two of these:

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Ha. Thats pretty much what I did. Except I just tied a knot in the loose loop end to take up slack.
 
New OEM key set. Only about $30 per key at the dealer (25 for the valet), assuming you transfer your transponder / remote unit. Technically one key has an aftermarket transponder and remote, but that’s the vault spare.
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Finally got the winch control box mounted for the Comeup 12.5 RS slim. I was able to repurpose the Slee stainless steel bracket for the Redarc bcdc that goes on their second battery tray since I wasn’t using it.

I still have to hook up to the battery, test, then tidy up the wiring and put split loom on it to protect them. Will refine the mounting a bit more with a spacer.

Comeup doesn’t mention it anywhere in the materials I saw but the control box has two slots on the back that you can slide m6 hex bolts into. I was struggling to come up with a solution I liked until I noticed that. EDIT: PUN INTENDED 😂

I had hoped to mount it lower and don’t love how much it blocks the radiator so I may change it. Although, a few companies like RCI sell brackets for mounting control boxes in similar positions for the GX and Tacoma.

It was a bit too tight to use the included bracket that puts it on top of the winch and my engine bay doesn’t have a good spot. The usual spots are taken up already.


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30k front wheel bearing check/pack. Didn't expect this carnage!

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Hot spots on the inner sleeve portion.
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This outer bearing was new 30k ago. Replaced with new bearing and race from the parts store. Will see how it holds up. The spindle also showed some hot spots on it. TBD on addressing that.

Quiz: the axle nuts on one side were barely hand tight. The axle nuts on the other side were tight enough that I had to use the 54mm wrench on a 3/8 rachet to remove. Guess which side this damaged outer bearing was on...

...







Could be coincidental?





...


Answer: the loose side. This supports my biased theory that I'd rather over-tighten wheel bearings that leave too loose.
 
30k front wheel bearing check/pack. Didn't expect this carnage!

View attachment 4147245

Hot spots on the inner sleeve portion.
View attachment 4147247
View attachment 4147248
This outer bearing was new 30k ago. Replaced with new bearing and race from the parts store. Will see how it holds up. The spindle also showed some hot spots on it. TBD on addressing that.

Quiz: the axle nuts on one side were barely hand tight. The axle nuts on the other side were tight enough that I had to use the 54mm wrench on a 3/8 rachet to remove. Guess which side this damaged outer bearing was on...

...







Could be coincidental?





...


Answer: the loose side. This supports my biased theory that I'd rather over-tighten wheel bearings that leave too loose.
I just did my wheel bearings too and they were all messed up from being too loose. The thrust washer on both sides were groved and the passenger side had metal shavings hanging off of it. The lock washers where ding up from someone using a hammer and screw driver the install them I had to take a grinder to them to clean them up enough to even get a socket on them. Smh
 
Finally got the winch control box mounted for the Comeup 12.5 RS slim. I was able to repurpose the Slee stainless steel bracket for the Redarc bcdc that goes on their second battery tray since I wasn’t using it.

I still have to hook up to the battery, test, then tidy up the wiring and put split loom on it to protect them. Will refine the mounting a bit more with a spacer.

Comeup doesn’t mention it anywhere in the materials I saw but the control box has two slots on the back that you can slide m6 hex bolts into. I was struggling to come up with a solution I liked until I noticed that.

I had hoped to mount it lower and don’t love how much it blocks the radiator so I may change it. Although, a few companies like RCI sell brackets for mounting control boxes in similar positions for the GX and Tacoma.

It was a bit too tight to use the included bracket that puts it on top of the winch and my engine bay doesn’t have a good spot. The usual spots are taken up already.
I went for the 1800 mm (~6 ft) winch relocation kit. I used a Comeup's small u-bracket and a single bolt that matched the thread of some existing hole beside the fuse box. I may get the tool and do a couple riv-nuts in the exact location I want. Here are the results of my late night push to finish it.
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Pardon the creative mounting solution.
 
I went for the 1800 mm (~6 ft) winch relocation kit. I used a Comeup's small u-bracket and a single bolt that matched the thread of some existing hole beside the fuse box. I may get the tool and do a couple riv-nuts in the exact location I want. Here are the results of my late night push to finish it.
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Pardon the creative mounting solution.
Ohh rivnuts, good idea. Might need to figure something out using those.

Unfortunately, I have a 98 so my evap core is there. Also have a dual battery setup and the Slee tray so no room since it has a group 31.

Then I’ve got a battery switch and fuse mounted to a @LJE bracket that I’ll run the winch through.

In front of the air box is a good spot too but I’ve got a @plaidwagon washer reservoir there.

It’s tight 😂
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Ohh rivnuts, good idea. Might need to figure something out using those.

Unfortunately, I have a 98 so my evap core is there. Also have a dual battery setup and the Slee tray so no room since it has a group 31.

Then I’ve got a battery switch and fuse mounted to a @LJE bracket that I’ll run the winch through.

In front of the air box is a good spot too but I’ve got a @plaidwagon washer reservoir there.

It’s tight 😂
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That's a busy engine bay!
 
30k front wheel bearing check/pack. Didn't expect this carnage!

View attachment 4147245

Hot spots on the inner sleeve portion.
View attachment 4147247
View attachment 4147248
This outer bearing was new 30k ago. Replaced with new bearing and race from the parts store. Will see how it holds up. The spindle also showed some hot spots on it. TBD on addressing that.

Quiz: the axle nuts on one side were barely hand tight. The axle nuts on the other side were tight enough that I had to use the 54mm wrench on a 3/8 rachet to remove. Guess which side this damaged outer bearing was on...

...







Could be coincidental?





...


Answer: the loose side. This supports my biased theory that I'd rather over-tighten wheel bearings that leave too loose.
lol… turns out when they get even looser the entire bearing explodes, what a bad week to be a 100 series wheel bearing
 
Finally got around to fixing the driver door wiring harness. This was surprisingly satisfying to do! I saved some coin! Got er all back together to have the speaker not work ugh it was working, corroded speaker terminal was problem. Now to chase the rear right passenger speaker grounding whine.

(Found the ground issue!! The rear speaker signal wire was twisted together uninsulated!) I love easy fixes!
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Finally got around to fixing the driver door wiring harness. This was surprisingly satisfying to do! I saved some coin! Got er all back together to have the speaker not work ugh it was working, corroded speaker terminal was problem. Now to chase the rear right passenger speaker grounding whine.

(Found the ground issue!! The rear speaker signal wire was twisted together uninsulated!) I love easy fixes!
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what type of issues was this causing? I have a mirror problem I suspect could be the harness
 
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