What have you done to your 100 Series this week?

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superdawg said:
What brand/model is that top side creeper?
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Here is the link I used to buy. Home Depot delivered from Georgia to California in a couple days. Took me about 30 min to bolt it all together.

Looks like the brand is SKYSHALO. One of the most convenient features is the small nylon bag which hangs off the front. It was great throwing in the nuts and bolt so I didn’t lose them or forget where I put them. Also great for switching between 10mm and 12mm sockets.

 
Did the tpms sensor ground out so it doesn't flash and I'm hoping I'm the first to have Lexol-ed my leather owners case.

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kbfj621989 said:
Changed out the heater tees and replaced all the hoses and clamps with OEM. Previous owner(s) had only replaced the left side and used worm clamps. The right side crumbled when i touched it.

Also replaced upper and lower rad hoses and thermostat with OEM since everything was apart and I did not know what was in there. I found aftermarket thermostat with the jiggle valve in the wrong place. 🤦‍♂️

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whats the total cost for this project (heater tees, hoses etc.)?
 
2005 VGRS Steering Rack Bushing Replacement with New, hopefully factory identical rubber bushings. Ordered from Bestparts on eBay after reading these are what rack rebuilders use. They seemed the least chinese? option i could find aside from poly bushings. Really did not want the stiffness of poly on my LX470.

Went into it expecting removal to be a huge pain, and re-installation to be easy and ended up having more trouble with re-installation.
Started by removing both tie rods from the knuckle and unbolting the rack. I left the steering shaft and lines connected. There is very little flex or room for movement, especially on the driver side with the oil cooler housing and filter literally directly on top of the mount.
The bottom bushes are easy, just peel the lip back, work it down all around the edge, and i was able to hit it at a downwards angle with the air hammer which just slides them right out. The upper was a bit trickier, on the passenger side upper, there's tons of room above the rack and i was able to air hammer after painstakingly peeling up the lip, but on the driver side one with the the oil filter housing, i had to hammer the bush from the inside upwards at a difficult angle to get the rack into. Still it took 2 hours max.

During re-installation, i figured i'd just use the factory bolt, a big nut and pull them in, but the exterior of the bush sits lower than the rubber and interior sleeve, so i ended up just compressing the centers of the bush together and it wouldn't seat. I ended up cutting a piece of tube as a shim that fit around the edges but not the rubber, and using a longer bolt, sandwiched the two bushes together and they seated properly.

Huge Improvement, wow. Wheel feedback was really high before, now it's almost nothing. Turns feel crisp and in control now, before sometimes it felt like you had to lean into the wheel extra at the end of the turn to get the truck where you wanted it.

Pulled my rack boots back to inspect how much fluid was leaking out of them, and mud grease water squirted out all over. s***! Ended up pulling off both sides and finding trapped mud water in my boots that had been up against my rack seals for potentially weeks! Got it all really good and cleaned up, rack ends re-greased, torn boots cleaned up, and wrapped the boots in plastic wrap so they would stay sealed while the new ones get delivered. Anyone have an opinion on using oem clamps vs hose clamps on the rack boot? Hose clamps get tighter for sure, but are wider and could could split the rubber

total cost 50 bucks for bushings, 60 bucks for the boots. Mine had very small tears that were hard to find on the edges.


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Samantha144 said:
Hey, what is the process for programming the remotes? I have two remotes that start the truck, however, they remotes don't work
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This is a great resource…

When the instructions direct you to actuate the door locks multiple times in succession, rather than pushing the electric lock and unlock button, you can manually exercise the lock toggle… because using the electric lock switch to exercise the door locks multiple times in succession, you may find that the locks will eventually fail to respond, due in large part to weak electric motors in the lock mechanism. Weak door lock motors is a common issue… but you can avoid the hassle during reprogramming procedures by manually exercising the lock toggle.

FYI

tlcfaq.com

Remote Transponder Key Programming

Article by: RobRed Applicable Models: 1998 - 2007 / 100 Series Land Cruiser Tools Needed: Your feet and hands Programming your own remote i
tlcfaq.com
 
Thought I was finished with my first timing belt job Sunday evening. First TB job was with the previous owner in 2006 at 90k. Now at 260k and 19 years later. Yes, procrastinating but I peeked at the TB and it looked good. Car is also kept in the garage in a mild climate if that makes a difference. Just some small cracks in the timing belt. Looked like it had a lot of life left in her. After putting it back together I filled her up with coolant and had it running down the front and back, filling the valley under the intake manifold :frown: Tore it down again and found I rolled the small o-ring when I installed the water pump housing......

While it was apart the first time, I replaced the figure 8 gasket for the oil filter/cooler housing to the block. Heat and age does a number on that gasket. That was a pretty good oil leak gumming things up. That job would be a lot easier using a lift versus doing it from the ground when you are pushing 60.
 
superdawg said:
Thought I was finished with my first timing belt job Sunday evening. First TB job was with the previous owner in 2006 at 90k. Now at 260k and 19 years later. Yes, procrastinating but I peeked at the TB and it looked good. Car is also kept in the garage in a mild climate if that makes a difference. Just some small cracks in the timing belt. Looked like it had a lot of life left in her. After putting it back together I filled her up with coolant and had it running down the front and back, filling the valley under the intake manifold :frown: Tore it down again and found I rolled the small o-ring when I installed the water pump housing......

While it was apart the first time, I replaced the figure 8 gasket for the oil filter/cooler housing to the block. Heat and age does a number on that gasket. That was a pretty good oil leak gumming things up. That job would be a lot easier using a lift versus doing it from the ground when you are pushing 60.
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Nothing sucks more than having to redo something. I had to redo my driver’s side cam cover gasket because i pinched it and it spewed oil when i started it. Glad you got it fixed
 
superdawg said:
Thought I was finished with my first timing belt job Sunday evening. First TB job was with the previous owner in 2006 at 90k. Now at 260k and 19 years later. Yes, procrastinating but I peeked at the TB and it looked good. Car is also kept in the garage in a mild climate if that makes a difference. Just some small cracks in the timing belt. Looked like it had a lot of life left in her. After putting it back together I filled her up with coolant and had it running down the front and back, filling the valley under the intake manifold :frown: Tore it down again and found I rolled the small o-ring when I installed the water pump housing......

While it was apart the first time, I replaced the figure 8 gasket for the oil filter/cooler housing to the block. Heat and age does a number on that gasket. That was a pretty good oil leak gumming things up. That job would be a lot easier using a lift versus doing it from the ground when you are pushing 60.
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"when you are pushing 60." yeah, no kidding. Isn't any better at 65. Thankfully my son is willing to help this old geezer.
 
I just replaced my bezel around the panel but dang that looks really nice! Removed and painted?
 
Finally got around to doing some rust repair on the drivers side rear quarter panel. Got the new patch panel made up out of 18g and will get it welded in tomorrow morning. Bought some aerosol color match paint/primer. It should look good enough since it will be hidden behind the bumper anyway. Took the time treat the surface rust with converter and spray some cavity wax inside as well.

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Landman2000 said:
About to tackle this job tomorrow along with a new rack & pinion and steering intermediate shaft. Been sitting on all the parts for a few weeks. Time to get it done!
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I'd recommend cutting the hard lines to the rack and using a ratcheting wrench to remove. It will save you a ton of time.
Also if you don't use a OEM line that comes with the vacuum switch you need to make sure it's very tight. Mine leaked on startup before I tightened it up some more. Other than that pretty straightforward.
 
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