What have you done to your 100 Series this week?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I'd recommend cutting the hard lines to the rack and using a ratcheting wrench to remove. It will save you a ton of time.
Also if you don't use a OEM line that comes with the vacuum switch you need to make sure it's very tight. Mine leaked on startup before I tightened it up some more. Other than that pretty straightforward.
I bit the bullet and paid up for the OEM lines with the vacuum switch. Also bought a new steering shaft and bolts, which wasn’t cheap. Mine looks pretty rusted and worn. I plan to unbolt the engine/trans and jack it up to gain clearance since I bought new motor and transmission mounts as well. I’ll keep it in mind about cutting the hard lines for ease of removal.
 
I've had stuttering, loss of power intermittently for the past two weeks and also had P0170 code on and off. I cleaned the MAF sensor and the code went away but the stuttering didn't until it actually just died as I was pulling into work. I had it towed home (the shame!!) and threw some money at it by way of new Denso ignition coils and NGK spark plugs. That didn't fix anything but I don't feel bad as I don't know that they have ever been changed and I have put over 100K miles on it during my ownership.
A good (and much smarter) friend helped me troubleshoot and we landed on a bad fuel pump. Don't be too mad at me but because of time I replaced with Delphi unit from Autozone. Viola!!! It runs perfect. I attached a picture for fun.

View attachment 4019124

Funny (actually, interesting). Talked to a guy who works on some of my vehicles the other day.

Told him I'd like him to take a look at my '99 LC b/c it's exhibited similar symptoms and it's probably a fuel pump going out.

He replied that they typically either work or don't. He then asked, "What gas do you use?" Costco, and change the fuel filter about once a year or so.

I then wondered if it could be a relay, etc. He didn't think so. Now I'm just planning on buying a new pump and be done with it.

That was not my experience at ALL. My intermittent fuel pump failure started with the previous owner, gave him a crank-no-start then didn't do it again for almost a year. Then it accelerated to once a month or so, then after a couple months of that it went to a couple times in one week (with me replacing the engine room block assembly (main fuse and relay box) to try and solve it) then finally crapped the bed for good.
My OG fuel pump died very abruptly and without warning in 2017 somewhere about 265k miles. Replaced the pump and screen with OEM. Super easy :banana: job. I am at 349k now and no issues at all since then. I change my fuel filter every couple years.
 
Finally got around to doing some rust repair on the drivers side rear quarter panel. Got the new patch panel made up out of 18g and will get it welded in tomorrow morning. Bought some aerosol color match paint/primer. It should look good enough since it will be hidden behind the bumper anyway. Took the time treat the surface rust with converter and spray some cavity wax inside as well.

View attachment 4024402

View attachment 4024408

View attachment 4024409

View attachment 4024410

View attachment 4024411
That's a great job. Will weld up nicely. We just bought a laser welder and man it is the ticket for this type of welding. My mig on thin panels is... let's just say you can tell I don't weld every day. This laser welder is amazing.
 
That's a great job. Will weld up nicely. We just bought a laser welder and man it is the ticket for this type of welding. My mig on thin panels is... let's just say you can tell I don't weld every day. This laser welder is amazing.
I need to look into a laser welder. I’ve done alot of sheet metal work on my 72 C10. Ideally you want to use some .023 wire but my current Hobart 140 is set up with .030. Still turned out pretty good considering it will never be seen. I’ll hit it with some glazing putting and paint it tomorrow.

IMG_0476.webp
 
I need to look into a laser welder. I’ve done alot of sheet metal work on my 72 C10. Ideally you want to use some .023 wire but my current Hobart 140 is set up with .030. Still turned out pretty good considering it will never be seen. I’ll hit it with some glazing putting and paint it tomorrow.

View attachment 4025132
Wish you were close enough to do the exact same thing to mine! :cool: :beer: :cool:
 
Had a deer run into the side of the hundy this morning. Aside from knocking some dogleg rust out that was clinging in there, no damage… but the bastard took my rear passenger wheel center cap!! I turned around to see if the deer needed put down, but couldn’t find it or my center cap. Doing about 60mph so I’m sure it’s off in the field somewhere 🤦🏼‍♂️
 
I need to look into a laser welder. I’ve done alot of sheet metal work on my 72 C10. Ideally you want to use some .023 wire but my current Hobart 140 is set up with .030. Still turned out pretty good considering it will never be seen. I’ll hit it with some glazing putting and paint it tomorrow.

View attachment 4025132
IMG_0006.webp
IMG_0005.webp
Laser Weld on 18 G Stainless. A little rough but we’re just learning into this. No heat warp at all.
 
Nothing crazy just changed the oil on the tank. The 3D printed filter wrench fit perfectly and love my fumoto drain valve. It’s good to have the Mrs work in the automotive industry. Orders liqui moly from world pac at a discounted price. Beats retail

IMG_5484.webp


IMG_5485.webp


IMG_5486.webp
 
80mm butyl sound deadener mats on the floor, wheel arches, and outer skins. I also sprayed Boom Mat sound deadener spray over wheel arches and wheel wells. Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro (closed cell foam + MLV) on top of butyl mats. The wheel arches and outer skins are now lined with 3M Thinsulate. Also got a new back carpet from a local upholstery shop without third row seat cutouts. The carpet has a thick rubber backing that acts as another layer of sound protection.

I was at a drive thru recently with radio off and thought my engine had cut off it was so quiet.

On to the doors next (butyl mats, insul-layer 6mm closed cell foam, MLV to block door access holes, and 3M Thinsulate on inner door card), and the ceiling (butyl mats and insul-layer on the skin and Thinsulate on inner headliner).

IMG_5392.webp


IMG_5570.webp
 
Last edited:
While waiting for the LASFIT LEDs for the high beam and low beam headlights, I decided to polish up the lenses a little bit using the Sylvannia Headlight Restoration kit. It's a 4 step sanding and polishing process plus a sealant finish. The side markers will be replaced by new housings since they will be converted into turn markers so I did not polish those.
IMG_1119 2.webp
IMG_1118 2.webp
IMG_1120 2.webp
IMG_1121 2.webp
IMG_1130 2.webp
 
Decided it was time to bring the lx up to modern times. Teyes cc3 2k + replaced all the speakers from the ML sound system + new amps + 2 12inch subs + new backup cam. Anyone waiting to pull the trigger on the teyes cc3 2k heres your sign to do it. its a amazing quality of life upgrade and seems to work flawlessly for me.
1000051949.webp
1000051947.webp
1000051948.webp
1000051938.webp
100051942.webp
 
Back
Top Bottom