What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (30 Viewers)
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Installed new Ironman Awning, Ironman Stage 2 Nitro Gas 2" lift, and 275/70/18 Falken Wildpeak AT3s. You can't see it, but also had the drive shaft balanced to tackle a nagging driveline buzz I was experiencing between 65-72ish mph - pleased to say it did the trick.
Have a few more things I'm adding before beach trip next week. Will do a write up on everything at some point, hopefully it will help people looking to do similar and save some time on searches.
If anyone in Eastern NC needs a good recommendation on a mechanic and driveline shop, send me a message. I'm a little giddy with how things turned out. Can't wait to do some beach cruising.
Have a few more things I'm adding before beach trip next week. Will do a write up on everything at some point, hopefully it will help people looking to do similar and save some time on searches.
If anyone in Eastern NC needs a good recommendation on a mechanic and driveline shop, send me a message. I'm a little giddy with how things turned out. Can't wait to do some beach cruising.
Finishing an 80 now, and beginning on a 200. Excited on both. As for this 100, she’s with her new owner. He’s contemplating a lot more. Bumpers, solar, etc.LOL!!!
She looks great man! So, what's next?
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
Installed a Noco AC plug in my bumper and a Victron Smart Blue 13A under the hood. Since I finished my dual battery setup last week I've been running the fridge constantly to learn the battery usage, and it was clear that driving a few miles back and forth to work wasn't charging enough to run a fridge at 0C in 80+F weather.
Yes, I know I installed it upside down. That way the cord goes up though, so it's less exposed to getting snagged. The cord routes very well in this bumper in this orientation.
Yes, I know I installed it upside down. That way the cord goes up though, so it's less exposed to getting snagged. The cord routes very well in this bumper in this orientation.
Looks great! Just want to confirm....no lift? Any wheel spacers added? Think 1.25inch spacers would be too much?
And just to make sure sure since I've never done any radio/head unit work; I'm going to have to probably get the install kit (sold separately) and an amp if I don't want to bypass the sub.. right?
Those look amazing. I always wondered, why do the front wheels/tires look bigger than the back? It’s the same on mine, 285/75/R16 and when you step back and look at the vehicle, the fronts look bigger than the backs.
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Probably because more tire is inside the wheel well up front as opposed to down below it in the rear due to rake. I bet if you raised the front so it was equal it would look the same, at the expense of ride quality of course
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
New fan and fan clutch. OEM Aisin from Rock Auto for both. Probably didn't need to replace the fan, but the ends of the blades were pretty dinged up, 22 year old plastic spinning at a few thousand RPMs kinda scares me, and it was only $45.
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Big week. Got the truck back after 29 days at the body shop (most of that waiting on parts). New door and welded in new quarter panel. Adjuster for insurance kept commenting what a huge favor he was doing us with the "extensive rust" they found in the seam of the fender and rocker. I swung by after he mentioned that and the body shop guy showed me a nickel sized spot in the seam. Oh well, it's done. Initial estimate was $6,100 and they were going to total it, field adjuster took it down to $5,200 and agreed not to total, final bill was $6,500.
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
We had the Slee sliders off refinishing them from the rusting seams of the foot plates at the time of the accident. Really wonder how it would turned out if they'd been on the truck. First pic shows the amount of pitting. We had them blasted and this go went home brew with Rusto etching primer and spray on bed-liner. Not impressed with the Rusto spray on liner, just bumping them around installing them it rubbed off in a few spots.
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Final bits, no pics - antenna came back from the body shop inoperable. Ordered a replacement off Amazon for $30, pulled the old one out to find NO toothed cable on it - so, got to open up the fender liner and dig out the cable. Man, there are some little nuts on the antenna motor I forgot about, you really need to watch them and where they go.
Last piece was the ambient temp sensor, it was stuck on 76*. While I wish it really was that temp, it's been more like high 90's. Wiped it off with cleaner, disconnected battery, back to normal op - 99*.
Last piece was the ambient temp sensor, it was stuck on 76*. While I wish it really was that temp, it's been more like high 90's. Wiped it off with cleaner, disconnected battery, back to normal op - 99*.
Just curious on how this turned out for you? Was working on my LX today and noticed mine is seeping a bit....
I just checked my undercarriage yesterday looks still the same on the bell housing.
Great image! Every time I setup my stuff the fog rolls in! Never fails....
Finally have my electrical system sorted, decided against a dual battery system and went with a single set up with a dedicated powerline to the rear and a fuse panel/relay set up in the front. I will run the current battery until it fails and then get a dual purpose. Also installed a bulldog 41,000 air compressor, runs fairly quiet, I fabricated a custom mount from some mild steel I had laying around in the garage. Plan is to have an outlet on the outside of my rig for air and never open the hood. Five rocker switches in the cab to the left of the driver seat, only have negative leads running into those just to activate the relays. Only thing left to do is install the ham radio with a detachable face on it, body of radio will go where the compact disc changer was in the center console and the face will sit in front of the tape deck.
Rocker switches are not lit up when in use but I did add lighting under the dash to illuminate the footwell, 5th rocket is on the way. Comet helped me break the first rocker when trying to figure them out 
pics of the rear setup with fridge, added low level lights back there as well, round led light fir right in the hole where seatbelt used to be.
pics of the rear setup with fridge, added low level lights back there as well, round led light fir right in the hole where seatbelt used to be.
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This week I finally installed headers and also an electronic muffler.
The headers are TRI Y 6-2-1, meaning maximum low-mid range torque boost as opposed to 6-1 headers which are for peak power. With stock engine internals not much of a difference though just sound.
Believe it or not, the 6-2-1 headers have a significantly different tone than the 6-1.
Headers have 1 5/8 Primaries and a 3-inch collector. The connecting pipe is also 3 inches, as well as the muffler.
I have it set up so when the muffler is opened it goes straight through without the resonator, when off it goes through the tailpipe resonator. The muffler is not straight through when closed, it sounds and flows similar to stock when closed.
Sound clips closed and open, in and outside cab tomorrow hopefully!.
The headers are TRI Y 6-2-1, meaning maximum low-mid range torque boost as opposed to 6-1 headers which are for peak power. With stock engine internals not much of a difference though just sound.
Believe it or not, the 6-2-1 headers have a significantly different tone than the 6-1.
Headers have 1 5/8 Primaries and a 3-inch collector. The connecting pipe is also 3 inches, as well as the muffler.
I have it set up so when the muffler is opened it goes straight through without the resonator, when off it goes through the tailpipe resonator. The muffler is not straight through when closed, it sounds and flows similar to stock when closed.
Sound clips closed and open, in and outside cab tomorrow hopefully!.
