Yes I agree! However it doesn't have to be perfect and I'm not in a huge hurry. My main focus will be stopping the rot now and work through fixing it slowly. The frame is definitely in better condition than the body. It will might need the c-channel re-enforcement in the rear as I did see a little delamination on the inner bit but the rest looks ok. I'll get some pics once it stops raining and see if others agree.You're a glutton for punishment. That is going to be a ton of body work. I hope the frame looks better than the body.
When you take pics of the frame, look at the bottom of the frame inside the front hanger of the rear springs. Also the inboard side of the frames seem to rust first. Especially near the cat/muffler area. Also look for frame rust on the inboard side of the frame rail where the frame rises to go over the rear axle. Another area of concern is the rear shock mount cross member tube. This tube can completely break in half from rust and did for me. Usually where it bends close close to the frame. The fix is driving a schedule 40 steel pipe thru the frame as a replacement.
Here I tried to outline what works on C channel replacement. installing c channels - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/installing-c-channels.1065326/#post-11731385
Apparently that was the plan the PO had in mind. While those look pretty cool I love the lines of these too much to do that. Plus I will be wheeling with my kids so nothing quite crazy enough to require that level of protection or modification. Honestly @g-man 's build mirrors what I would like my final result to be minus the sleeping situation. Mild OME lift with built in storage and spot for my fridge in the back.I'd chop the back off of it, add a cage and wheel it
You are right and most of that is my plan but I may get a pro involved at some point. I doubt this will be my only LC but it's a good project to learn on as it just doesn't have a huge amount of value. I don't need a daily driver or even a trail rig as have something that fills both those roles for me it's just a little too small to take my sons on longer trips that I want to do. So my goal is to get the going make it safe and as reliable as I can and use it for some fun.Get is sorted mechanically, lift and tires and patch JUST ENOUGH to keep the elements out......then drive it till it falls apart. No way you can fix all that rust without pro help and a full body off sandblast. It'll never be kicked and you'll et frustrated.
That A pillar and windshield area will take a year by itself.
Looking forward to updates!
Well that comment made my drink come out of my nose.You can patch it up and drive it for a few years before the bottom drops out and the roof blows off.
How much does a frame take? Most places want $30 a quart and I would rather not end up with a ton of extra if possible.I have wire brushed and treated frames with the body still on. I did a 1961 Dodge Town Wagon in 2003 and treated with Zero Rust black. I used it because you can brush it on. In 2019, it was still doing the job. I’ve most recently been working with the Chassis Saver, silver and black. I use the silver as more of a primer, then the black. I used silver only on out 1965 Airstream steps and front frame three years ago and still looks great. The chassis saver reacts with the humidity in the air to cure. It also can be brushed on. Using it on my ‘78 fj55 frame off.
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