What have I done.....81 FJ60 aka Tetanus (2 Viewers)

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Between selling the original mudflaps (I see 2 of the 4) and that factory radio in the dash you can get your purchase price back before the weekend!
 

Crzywlf

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You're a glutton for punishment. That is going to be a ton of body work. I hope the frame looks better than the body.
Yes I agree! However it doesn't have to be perfect and I'm not in a huge hurry. My main focus will be stopping the rot now and work through fixing it slowly. The frame is definitely in better condition than the body. It will might need the c-channel re-enforcement in the rear as I did see a little delamination on the inner bit but the rest looks ok. I'll get some pics once it stops raining and see if others agree.

Ultimately this is not a flip and I'm not planning to sell it so even if it takes years to be "complete" it is what it is. I would like to see it moving under it's own power if the original motor can be dealt with this spring/summer. The interior rot will likely be repaired first so I can put that all back together to drive it. The only things so far I KNOW I have to buy is looking like a tailgate and carpet. I've seen there is a member on here who seems to have the carpet covered.
 

g-man

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When you take pics of the frame, look at the bottom of the frame inside the front hanger of the rear springs. Also the inboard side of the frames seem to rust first. Especially near the cat/muffler area. Also look for frame rust on the inboard side of the frame rail where the frame rises to go over the rear axle. Another area of concern is the rear shock mount cross member tube. This tube can completely break in half from rust and did for me. Usually where it bends close close to the frame. The fix is driving a schedule 40 steel pipe thru the frame as a replacement.
 

Crzywlf

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When you take pics of the frame, look at the bottom of the frame inside the front hanger of the rear springs. Also the inboard side of the frames seem to rust first. Especially near the cat/muffler area. Also look for frame rust on the inboard side of the frame rail where the frame rises to go over the rear axle. Another area of concern is the rear shock mount cross member tube. This tube can completely break in half from rust and did for me. Usually where it bends close close to the frame. The fix is driving a schedule 40 steel pipe thru the frame as a replacement.


Thank you sir! People like you are why I feel I can take this on. I appreciate all the help and will grab pics as well. Luckily for me the gas tank is not in at the moment so getting a good look at this area will be much easier. Also the spare tire cross member is removed. I do have a good used tank and straps ready to go in once I get that area cleaned up and don't need the space anymore.
 

Crzywlf

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I'd chop the back off of it, add a cage and wheel it
Apparently that was the plan the PO had in mind. While those look pretty cool I love the lines of these too much to do that. Plus I will be wheeling with my kids so nothing quite crazy enough to require that level of protection or modification. Honestly @g-man 's build mirrors what I would like my final result to be minus the sleeping situation. Mild OME lift with built in storage and spot for my fridge in the back.
 
Joined
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Raleigh, NC
Get is sorted mechanically, lift and tires and patch JUST ENOUGH to keep the elements out......then drive it till it falls apart. No way you can fix all that rust without pro help and a full body off sandblast. It'll never be kicked and you'll et frustrated.

That A pillar and windshield area will take a year by itself.

Looking forward to updates!
 

Crzywlf

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Get is sorted mechanically, lift and tires and patch JUST ENOUGH to keep the elements out......then drive it till it falls apart. No way you can fix all that rust without pro help and a full body off sandblast. It'll never be kicked and you'll et frustrated.

That A pillar and windshield area will take a year by itself.

Looking forward to updates!
You are right and most of that is my plan but I may get a pro involved at some point. I doubt this will be my only LC but it's a good project to learn on as it just doesn't have a huge amount of value. I don't need a daily driver or even a trail rig as have something that fills both those roles for me it's just a little too small to take my sons on longer trips that I want to do. So my goal is to get the going make it safe and as reliable as I can and use it for some fun.


Here are pics of the frame and under carriage. Other than definitely needing the c-channel work it looks OK to me but I would love more opinions on it from the guys who have been there before. Looks like some various leaking that will need to be addressed on u-joints. I know it needs body mounts.

frame1.jpg


frame2.jpg


frame3.jpg


frame4.jpg


frame5.jpg


frame6.jpg


frame7.jpg


framefront.jpg


framerear.jpg
 
Joined
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The rear of that frame isn’t bad at all. Sure the inner c channels are shot, but the outer frame rail still looks straight.

spend your money & effort on getting it mechanically sorted. Forget the body. You can patch it up and drive it for a few years before the bottom drops out and the roof blows off.
 
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I have wire brushed and treated frames with the body still on. I did a 1961 Dodge Town Wagon in 2003 and treated with Zero Rust black. I used it because you can brush it on. In 2019, it was still doing the job. I’ve most recently been working with the Chassis Saver, silver and black. I use the silver as more of a primer, then the black. I used silver only on out 1965 Airstream steps and front frame three years ago and still looks great. The chassis saver reacts with the humidity in the air to cure. It also can be brushed on. Using it on my ‘78 fj55 frame off.

A7E51F95-F9DC-405C-A30E-059BFCD0EB7F.jpeg


13CCC75E-396B-48D8-AA95-1A5B6731E434.jpeg
 

Crzywlf

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So this weekend I pulled the valve cover to start seeing if I can get this thing running and got no love LOL So now I'm looking for a pull out 2f and pricing out a 4.8/5.3 swap. I have a bunch of brand new parts for a 2f and for getting it up and running sooner I'm hoping I can find something locally that will work. I've found a company that does a 4.8 pull out conversion ready. Not sure what the policy on links to companies is but here is the info on what it includes. Cost is $2200 shipped and I would need the Adaptive kit which is another $2400 anyone bother throwing a 3FE in a 60 as a cheaper route to a working powerplant?

Ready To Run Engine Packages Include:


Palletized Take Out Engine
New Wiring Harness with fully sealed fuse block
Preflashed Computer
All Accessories (i.e. Water Pump, Idler/Tensioner Pulleys, Power Steering Pump, etc.)
All of our engines come with a 1 year limited warranty.


I also had my buddy come over who restores cars as his main hobby and we worked out a game plan to start working through the different body issues while I figure out what the motor situation is going to be. I'll be resealing the rain gutters and addressing rust issues there as well as the floors. I'm pulling all the chrome trim off and working through some other issues to help reduce or eliminate the water coming in when it rains. I'm finding that for all the issues this thing is very complete. It even has both snake blinders and the factory radio works and most of the speakers!

wellcrap.jpg
 

EscapeWagon62

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Longmeadow MA
You can patch it up and drive it for a few years before the bottom drops out and the roof blows off.
Well that comment made my drink come out of my nose.

@Crzywlf that is a major major major project. That being said there are plenty of folks on here that have tackled them with a learn as you go attitude. I’ll keep watching and If you ever get to easy stuff where I’m of use....I’ll chime in. Good luck.
 

Crzywlf

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Jan 27, 2021
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Virginia
I have wire brushed and treated frames with the body still on. I did a 1961 Dodge Town Wagon in 2003 and treated with Zero Rust black. I used it because you can brush it on. In 2019, it was still doing the job. I’ve most recently been working with the Chassis Saver, silver and black. I use the silver as more of a primer, then the black. I used silver only on out 1965 Airstream steps and front frame three years ago and still looks great. The chassis saver reacts with the humidity in the air to cure. It also can be brushed on. Using it on my ‘78 fj55 frame off.

View attachment 2621422

View attachment 2621424
How much does a frame take? Most places want $30 a quart and I would rather not end up with a ton of extra if possible.
 

Gundo

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I did my floorpans, top and bottom, with about a quart of POR-15 “primer” and then POR-15 top coat. They were pretty darn rusty.

And whoa, you’re now considering a motor swap too?

🍿in hand, subscribed!
 
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I’d just wire wheel the frame. Brush paint it with red oxide primer. And top coat it with some sort of black implement enamel- John Deere blitz black if you can get it. 1qt it lots.
 

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