What did you work on tonight? (4 Viewers)

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Started disassembly of the rear axle on the '02 4R to replace the rear differential and hopefully get rid of the noise coming from the rear end of the vehicle. Axle bearings seem to be in good shape and I will replace axle seals while I've got everything apart. I have to admit that I'm spoiled that I usually work on rust-free cars from the southwest. This vehicle lived in CO for about 12 years and has more rust than I'm used to seeing.
Yar. Having grown up in the Tidewater VA area, I much enjoy working on vehicles that have lived there lives in the SW. I still have the habit of buying all new bolts every time I'm going to be wrenching on anything.
 
Got some tires to put on the 200 series wheels I got from Larry last year. Was able to get the tires swapped onto the wheels and mounted on the truck in just over an hour. I will have a buddy balance them for me this week. Now my spare is the same size as the rest of the tires.

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Got some CEL codes to figure out. Yay...

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Here's what I've figured out:
P0773: Shift solenoid error. Not gonna worry about this one, 'cause I don't have shift solenoids anymore, I'll get around to "fixing" it with some resistors sometime.

P1780: Park/neutral safety switch malfunction. Again, not gonna worry me.

P1133, P1135: Ordered new oxygen/AFR sensors. Hope that will do it, seems the most common problem. Engine was surging and not idling well at low rpm but was fine at higher rpm.

P0171: "System too Lean Bank 1." This one is the one that has me worried. I've ordered new vacuum and intake tubes to try to rule out a vacuum leak. I'm still on original, so its probably needed anyway. MAF seemed fine to me, I'll clean it when I do the intake tubes, but wasn't suffering from bad gas mileage or a loss in power. The part about this that worries me is I have a suspicion that my brake booster has a vacuum leak. Brakes have been a bit stiffer than usual over the last few months and I'm having a hard time locking up the wheels even on hard dirt. I just hope its not the booster, but rather the line to it, since the price for a new booster is absurd (~ 1000 buckaroos) and I don't really like putting junkyard parts on my car if its something important.

Any advice on how I should go about throwing parts at this?
 
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working on muscle recovery at Bathtub Row after a 1/2 day of bike at Pajarito. (I would have done a full day but I'm not as young as I once was... but I'm as young now as I ever was/getting back in shape to do full days)

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working on muscle recovery at Bathtub Row after a 1/2 day of bike at Pajarito. (I would have done a full day but I'm not as young as I once was... but I'm as young now as I ever was/getting back in shape to do full days)

I really need to get a new mountain bike.
 
@Quantumkiwi

I am having the same p0171 issue as well and been looking at my brake booster for the same reason as you are looking at yours. I can pull a vacuum but not on a consistent basis using a simple vacuum pump. So, if I were you I would try creating and maintaining vacuum inside the booster. If the vacuum leaks out over time then you know your problem.

You are on the correct path when it comes to replacing every single vacuum hose with OEM. That is a huge source of vacuum leaks and pirate air that the mass air flow sensor doesn't account for.


For the 80 series we have this option, maybe you can find similar for your 4runner;

 
@Quantumkiwi

I am having the same p0171 issue as well and been looking at my brake booster for the same reason as you are looking at yours. I can pull a vacuum but not on a consistent basis using a simple vacuum pump. So, if I were you I would try creating and maintaining vacuum inside the booster. If the vacuum leaks out over time then you know your problem.

You are on the correct path when it comes to replacing every single vacuum hose with OEM. That is a huge source of vacuum leaks and pirate air that the mass air flow sensor doesn't account for.


For the 80 series we have this option, maybe you can find similar for your 4runner;

Unfortunately, the seiken one is also around 800 bucks. :(
I wonder if I can just replace my brake booster with the one for the 80?
What would that mess up? ABS?
 
Unfortunately, the seiken one is also around 800 bucks. :(
I wonder if I can just replace my brake booster with the one for the 80?
What would that mess up? ABS?
That is a good point, worth looking into. But, you need to diagnose it first using the method I mentioned previously then report back. :-)
 
Yar. Having grown up in the Tidewater VA area, I much enjoy working on vehicles that have lived there lives in the SW. I still have the habit of buying all new bolts every time I'm going to be wrenching on anything.
I guess my 3-year stint in Tidewater (Hampton, Newport News) wasn't long enough to mess up my vehicles. And any time it flooded in the low lying areas, I avoided driving around in them for fear of getting saltwater on everything.
 
Marc, if you want, I have the takeoff gas tank skid from mine. Pretty rust free, no dents etc.
I might be. When you say 'pretty rust free' are you talking surface rust or cancerous growths? After spending a few hours underneath it this weekend it's not looking good and would be easier to swap vs blasting/grinding and repainting. About half the drain holes have some pretty ugly cancerous growth around them.
 
Added ~3' of exhaust to finally get it to dump behind the rear axle instead of on it. I still need to bring it down another foot and angle it to the side and add a hanger to the end and one more right behind the Catalytic converter. I also want to add some sort of resonator (wish I still had the OEM one but stupidly got rid of it) to help quiet it down. However, even just adding this length of additional tube has had a significant affect on the noise.

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Added ~3' of exhaust to finally get it to dump behind the rear axle instead of on it. I still need to bring it down another foot and angle it to the side and add a hanger to the end and one more right behind the Catalytic converter. I also want to add some sort of resonator (wish I still had the OEM one but stupidly got rid of it) to help quiet it down. However, even just adding this length of additional tube has had a significant affect on the noise.

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Ain't welding pipe all sorts of fun? Especially all bent up like that.
 
Oh dang that's SEXY !!!

I have a great oval shaped SS tailpipe resonator that you'll like for this application. Text me and I'll send you a pic of it. I think I got it from Summit and it quieted down the drone considerably.

I also have the OEM resonator if you want it.
 
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I might be. When you say 'pretty rust free' are you talking surface rust or cancerous growths? After spending a few hours underneath it this weekend it's not looking good and would be easier to swap vs blasting/grinding and repainting. About half the drain holes have some pretty ugly cancerous growth around them.
Just some surface rust. Not show quality, but nothing a rattle can won't fix.
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Just some surface rust. Not show quality, but nothing a rattle can won't fix.
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Yeah, that's a lot better than what I'm working with. How much?
 
I guess my 3-year stint in Tidewater (Hampton, Newport News) wasn't long enough to mess up my vehicles. And any time it flooded in the low lying areas, I avoided driving around in them for fear of getting saltwater on everything.

My 1st car was a 1978 Ford Fiesta that had lived its, up to then, 11 year life in the Va Beach area. Rust wasn't as bad as some cars I've seen in NY and WI but definitely many a times I busted knuckles shearing heads because I didn't have a torch or a saw. Then I moved to AZ and was like "well, the wipers already need replacing and the battery died again but them bolts sure do break loose easy."
 
Oh man, Isabelle is gonna be so jelly!!!
 

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