What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend?

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The Alpine head that I’m installing requires a splice into the parking brake switch wire (nanny state bull**** that used to be bypassable by simply grounding the sensor wire… not anymore… unless I splice in a specific bypass unite and diode for the attached amp). So, Rather than splicing into the harness in the DS footwell, it seems much easier to splice directly into the switch wire at the brake lever itself… here.

Does that seem like a logical solution?
Not anymore how?
 
Not anymore how?
Evidently, the software has been upgraded to prevent the old fashioned bypass… that’s not gospel, but everything that I’ve been reading comes to that conclusion… unless more s*** is spliced in behind the head.

This is a iLX-w670s.
 
The Alpine head that I’m installing requires a splice into the parking brake switch wire (nanny state bull**** that used to be bypassable by simply grounding the sensor wire… not anymore… unless I splice in a specific bypass unite and diode for the attached amp). So, Rather than splicing into the harness in the DS footwell, it seems much easier to splice directly into the switch wire at the brake lever itself… here.

View attachment 4111247

Does that seem like a logical solution?

Get the bypass switch. You will hate not having it.

Such as: Bypass For Alpine ILX W650 W670 W770 Video In Motion Parking Brake Unlock Cable | eBay Bypass For Alpine ILX W650 W670 W770 Video In Motion Parking Brake Unlock Cable | eBay - https://share.google/LBLhfx7MGifgJrbr5
 
Get the bypass switch. You will hate not having it.

Such as: 1 pcs Alpine Video Parking Brake Bypass Fits ALPINE ILX-W650 ILX-F309 ILX-F259 | eBay 1 pcs Alpine Video Parking Brake Bypass Fits ALPINE ILX-W650 ILX-F309 ILX-F259 | eBay - https://share.google/6izdoDT5gKmCLmfzf
I was looking at this one that works with the iLX-w670s


But, I'm running the stacked amp too... so it will likely require this as well.

 
I was looking at this one that works with the iLX-w670s


But, I'm running the stacked amp too... so it will likely require this as well.


I did the piggyback amp, did not do a diode, just the parking brake thingy mabob.
 
I did the piggyback amp, did not do a diode, just the parking brake thingy mabob.
Ok, man. Grateful for the first hand experience. I HATE not being in control of my rig (or in this case my wife's rig). Since that bypass worked for you, I'll give it a go and report back.

Here's to Saturday!
 
I did the piggyback amp, did not do a diode, just the parking brake thingy makabobs.
Wait....."at least I think"...😅 Let me check my thread.
 
I just don't understand how the simple ground at the parking brake can get any more complicated.
It has to do with a "pulsing" current that they have introduced into their head units. The current used to be constant... My wording is clunky, but that's it in a nutshell.
 
Well about half way through my PDI intercooler install. Was loosening a bolt to fit the hot side pipe and didn't realize it was for the condenser and popped the line. Gonna need a new oring and bolt if anyone knows the size.

Overall it was an easy install just time consuming. So far intercooler is in, plumping ran and battery boxes back in. Still need the lower valance, batteries , lights, grill and horns. Haven't started the trans cooler lines but probably next weekend.
 
Ok, man. Grateful for the first hand experience. I HATE not being in control of my rig (or in this case my wife's rig). Since that bypass worked for you, I'll give it a go and report back.

Here's to Saturday!
I've installed that bypass doohickey in 3 of my cars already since I am an avid Alpine fan. I have the ilx-507 (times 3).
 
Got everything zipped up this morning, did need to open up the driver side hole a little more than I liked, but the piping fits perfect. Gonna go take it for a run this morning so I can go get the condenser bolt and O-ring. Gonna find some Nylog and then get it refilled tomorrow.

Going to run the tran cooler lines next weekend


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AC fixed with new oring and bolt from O'Riley's. Luckily the bolt was broken in the bracket and the bracket came right out. Broken screw literally unscrewed and use some channel locks to move it the rest of the way. Super quick fix. Grabbed some 134a and the system is at 32psi. I'll run around town and then add a little more but AC feels super cold already.

Intercooler pipes all held like they should and only thing left is the grill and horns. I'll have to replace the turn signals with low profile LED but worth it in the end.


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Waiting on birfields still, lots of other stuff to do, got the radius arm bushings pressed in, drive flanges painted, rear brakes and soft lines in, waiting to connect them after the new booster and master cylinder install to complete flush on the system. New lspv installed, new tie road and drag link all prep with 555 joints, new sway bar links.

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