What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend?

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I'm stumped on a part. The rear door wire harness is "clamped" in place as it rises up to the window control switch, but I can't find the fasteners on any diagrams.

Does anyone know what these are?

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Waxed that @$$! The old girl looks shiny and sophisticated.

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lumbee1 said:
I finally got around to improving my rear articulation. My bumpstop drop brackets were a little too low and limiting up travel. My whiteline sway bar and adjustable end links were limiting down travel.

Frame bumpstop with extension.
View attachment 4027644

New spring retainer/bumpstop extension
View attachment 4027642

Frame bumpstop removed. Spring retainer/bumpstop extension installed and tested. The bumpstop is touching the axle but I still have up travel in the shock.
View attachment 4027645

Up travel is a bit more than before.
View attachment 4027646
Click to expand...
So you deleted the frame bumps and extended the coil ones? What did u extend them with?
 
91FJ80FD said:
So, what does getting an upgraded harness with relays do for me? other drives hate me because it's slow and I stay in the right lane. It's a 91 with 3FE.
Click to expand...
More voltage to your incandescent bulbs that are focused properly.
 
06reg4x4 said:
So you deleted the frame bumps and extended the coil ones? What did u extend them with?
Click to expand...
The frame bumpstops will definitely come back but will be much shorter. The spring bumpstops are too soft and squishy and could possibly allow shock damage if they bottom out. We drive the Cruiser on the beach and I've bounced off the frame bumpstops several times when fully loaded.

I used floor jack pads. It took me a while to find some that were both wide and tall. Some folks use hockey pucks to extend spring bumpstops but IMO hockey pucks aren't wide enough (3" diameter 1" tall) and made of hard rubber.
 
Took the driver door panel off today to see why my door lock doesn't want to fully engage. Of course, up on removing the panel the locking/unlocking seemed to be working alright. I had plans to take out the actuator and possibly replace the motor, but it seems fine (unless I am missing something). I'm not certain yet if there is just some bit of friction between the rods and the door panel? I decided so far to leave things in place and just lubricate any hinges. Later this week, I'll be adding dynamat to the door and redoing the vapor barrier.

Unfortunately broke a tab off the triangular garnish piece by the rear view mirror. So I'll have to replace that.

Also has anyone reinforce the eyelets for the plastic door tabs? I was considering using aluminum tape to potentially reinforce some of mine.

 
CrzrGuinevere said:
Took the driver door panel off today to see why my door lock doesn't want to fully engage. Of course, up on removing the panel the locking/unlocking seemed to be working alright. I had plans to take out the actuator and possibly replace the motor, but it seems fine (unless I am missing something). I'm not certain yet if there is just some bit of friction between the rods and the door panel? I decided so far to leave things in place and just lubricate any hinges. Later this week, I'll be adding dynamat to the door and redoing the vapor barrier.

Unfortunately broke a tab off the triangular garnish piece by the rear view mirror. So I'll have to replace that.

Also has anyone reinforce the eyelets for the plastic door tabs? I was considering using aluminum tape to potentially reinforce some of mine.

Click to expand...

Currently having the same problem with one of my automatic door locks. Only works 50 percent of the time. Good luck!
 
CrzrGuinevere said:
Took the driver door panel off today to see why my door lock doesn't want to fully engage. Of course, up on removing the panel the locking/unlocking seemed to be working alright. I had plans to take out the actuator and possibly replace the motor, but it seems fine (unless I am missing something). I'm not certain yet if there is just some bit of friction between the rods and the door panel? I decided so far to leave things in place and just lubricate any hinges. Later this week, I'll be adding dynamat to the door and redoing the vapor barrier.

Unfortunately broke a tab off the triangular garnish piece by the rear view mirror. So I'll have to replace that.

Also has anyone reinforce the eyelets for the plastic door tabs? I was considering using aluminum tape to potentially reinforce some of mine.

Click to expand...

I've used ca glue for newer door cards and light costs of expoy for more worn ones.
 
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