What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (73 Viewers)

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torque adapters

Amazon product ASIN B00NABVES8
I bought these awhile ago, but seem to no longer be available. They are pretty darn handy.
thanks for the idea. I checked your link and found this, 12 and 14MM. it will be in tomorrow!
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Did you remember to account for the difference in fulcrum length that gives you?
Good call on accounting for fulcrum length in using an extension beyond the original torquing devices fulcrum.
I would use this on the nut side attached to the cheater bar. I torque DS bolts from the bolt side. I believe hole interference should be taken into account when torquing from the bolt side. With drive shaft flanges, the bolts fit in their respective holes fairly loosely so interference is minimal. If one were truly worried about it, apply loctite and add 2 to 3 ft lb at the bolt side to compensate. I have taken my drive shaft on and off and have torqued from the bolt side, no problems.
 
Good call on accounting for fulcrum length in using an extension beyond the original torquing devices fulcrum.
I would use this on the nut side attached to the cheater bar. I torque DS bolts from the bolt side. I believe hole interference should be taken into account when torquing from the bolt side. With drive shaft flanges, the bolts fit in their respective holes fairly loosely so interference is minimal. If one were truly worried about it, apply loctite and add 2 to 3 ft lb at the bolt side to compensate. I have taken my drive shaft on and off and have torqued from the bolt side, no problems.

I usually torque from the bolt side as well, which on some only works with the right socket and extension. Of course, it also helps to have the wheels off the ground so you can rotate the shaft, but you'd probably need to do that anyway if removing/replacing/reinstalling.
 
I usually torque from the bolt side as well, which on some only works with the right socket and extension. Of course, it also helps to have the wheels off the ground so you can rotate the shaft, but you'd probably need to do that anyway if removing/replacing/reinstalling.
I use a 1/2 deep tapered end 14mm impact socket on the torque wrench, no wobbles or u-joints, just a short 1 inch extension.

As you stated, I have to rotate the driveline. Tight fit though so when i rotate the driveline, i am finding, at least for the rear, I have to rotate the flange and torque the bolt that is at the 4-5 o'clock position (my feet pointing towards the rear bumper).

I'm always watching/feeling to make sure the deep socket length doesn't create a slip and round-off situation. What socket have you used? i'm always looking for ideas in situations like this.
 
I use a 1/2 deep tapered end 14mm impact socket on the torque wrench, no wobbles or u-joints, just a short 1 inch extension.

As you stated, I have to rotate the driveline. Tight fit though so when i rotate the driveline, i am finding, at least for the rear, I have to rotate the flange and torque the bolt that is at the 4-5 o'clock position (my feet pointing towards the rear bumper).

I'm always watching/feeling to make sure the deep socket length doesn't create a slip and round-off situation. What socket have you used? i'm always looking for ideas in situations like this.

My go-to is usually a shallow chrome socket (professional brand) with a 3 inch extension. There is some danger of the angle changing and the bolt being rounded off, but as you say, one must be careful of this no matter what.

I think your deep socket with the taper sounds like a pretty solid method. The 4-5 o'clock position also works on the rear, with the opposite position on the front of the shaft.
 
Had a buddy help me put on the " At Wits End " ( land tank ) front seat extension brackets ! Ahhhh so much nicer with a lil more leg room !
Lots a grinding , etc

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Thats my friends collection , not mine...
 

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