What did you do on your 70 series today? (11 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
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Its a medium arm. I am debating swapping it out for a double socket that rotates in the middle so I can aim it a bit towards myself.
The new mount version is vertical and thicker. Here is version 1 that gave me more flexibility on where the phone is aimed, but shook more due to the thin metal and the lever arm it created.
Another option for phone mounting.
I got one of these for Xmas. Amazon product ASIN B085DMV7XD
Is meant for mounting to handlebars, I put it on the driver's side oh-$hit handle and it works great there. No wobble either.
I got one of these for Xmas. Amazon product ASIN B085DMV7XD
Is meant for mounting to handlebars, I put it on the driver's side oh-$hit handle and it works great there. No wobble either.
I got that same steering wheel. First one I’ve seen like mine where it has exposed metal between the grip and center.
Did you know those original, official EU approved towbars (with the spec plate on) sell for about 350€ in Europe, as no new ones are made and approved any more?Had my buddy convert the euro ball hitch into a 2" receiver for me. Went with a modified method that I saw @Blomdala use, which I liked because you get a little more clearance than welding it underneath. Happy with the way it turned out. Now to deal with the two bolts that snapped taking it off
View attachment 2910871
I have a nice towbar WITHOUT spec approval on sale. Not legal to use here, thus I can't use it and nobody wants it. Scrap metal.
Unfortunately the stuff is too heavy to economically ship it from one legislation area to another.
Sorry for the late response its been a busy week. I believe the part number for the key blanks I purchased is 90999-00085. The key works fine! nothing to complain about.
My need to replace the air cleaner set-up with a TorFab custom box escalated into a new GTurbo Green Wheel and some other stuff quickly. Spa week for the ol' lady >
The restrictive K/N and all the noodly appendages before >
Sicktite set-up after all snuggled in there>
GTurbo replaced a really tiny Subaru turbo >
-B
The restrictive K/N and all the noodly appendages before >
Sicktite set-up after all snuggled in there>
GTurbo replaced a really tiny Subaru turbo >
-B
That’s a bummer, however 350E actually sounds pretty cheap if they’re the only OEM ones that are approved. Prices for hard to find items are getting out of control.
JDM Journeys
Moderator
Still love me a 73/74. Such a great wheelbase. And such a cool truck!
Never content with sub-par products, I ditched the Drifta gullwings for these Explore Glazing windows. They're such an upgrade in terms of quality. I'm ordering their sliding windows for the front windows too. Way nicer than the OEM design. Just have to caulk around them to ensure 100% waterproofness. Explore Glazing says they're 99.9% waterproof without the caulk but better be safe than sorry... Explore Glazing - Toyota Land Cruiser series 75 & 78 - https://explore-glazing.nl/en/products/toyota-lc-75-78-troopy
Do you find yourself accessing 'stuff' much through the gull-wing? Seems like a slider would work just as well? I only have sliders in the back two windows and the front two are fixed. I think I'd like sliders or gull-wings on the front, to be able to grab stuff without crawling in the back.
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Depends on how your setup is. It's all preference. I like having the entire window open. Makes it much easier to access my camera case. We're doing sliders in the front so the doggo can hang his head out of them.
Today I tried to drop my tank on my 1985 BJ73 in order to replace the suction pipe assy and the filler neck. Both appear to be very rusty.
I also wanted to inspect the tank and floor panel above it.
The filler neck came out quite good.
Tank braces came off.
The tank however wouldn't drop.
I even tried a prey bar. I could bend it, dent it (did both) or even press a hole in it. It's not moving.
DID I MISS SOMETHING?
I read somwhere here that it might be glued in place with kind of mastik.
There is evidence it was never out and the body never off.
Any advice is highly appreciated.
I also wanted to inspect the tank and floor panel above it.
The filler neck came out quite good.
Tank braces came off.
The tank however wouldn't drop.
I even tried a prey bar. I could bend it, dent it (did both) or even press a hole in it. It's not moving.
DID I MISS SOMETHING?
I read somwhere here that it might be glued in place with kind of mastik.
There is evidence it was never out and the body never off.
Any advice is highly appreciated.
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It does not appear that you have missed anything.Today I tried to drop my tank on my 1985 BJ73 in order to replace the suction pipe assy and the filler neck. Both appear to be very rusty.
View attachment 2914855View attachment 2914856
I also wanted to inspect the tank and floor panel above it.
The filler neck came out quite good.
Tank braces came off.
The tank however wouldn't drop.
I even tried a prey bar. I could bend it, dent it (did both) or even press a hole in it. It's not moving.
DID I MISS SOMETHING?
I read somwhere here that it might be glued in place with kind of mastik.
There is evidence it was never out and the body never off.
Any advice is highly appreciated.
Theory on my part is that there might be corrosion on the top where the tank nests with the body. That is a snug fit normally, so corrosion could be making it much tighter for you. If so, you may just need more mechanical advantage such as spraying penetrating oil at (into) the making area. Also, some gentle'ish downward blows with a wood dowel could slowly shake loose enough to start dis-engaging and then drop.
FYI When I have dropped my tank in the past, I removed the filler neck first to gain room to work and maneuver the tank. With your current situation, removing the filler neck would gain you a little more room for spraying the penetrating oil and picking spots/angles for the wood dowel. You are already dealing with a pain in the arse situation. Removing the filler neck will probably make it worse on the hope it will be of aid in time. Regrettably, this is not an easy button that will absolutely make your situation easier.
Good luck
That is the style they ended up ordering me instead, just got them today but told them not to bother cutting them because I wanted what matches my master key. Just a personal preference. It can be frustrating getting parts through a local dealer but despite all of that, the people at this particular dealer are still pretty nice folks.
if you want three more of the 00085 keys, let me kmow lol. I ended up ordering exactly what I wanted online now despite the dealer oddly saying they couldn’t get that style.
I eventually got the sucker downToday I tried to drop my tank on my 1985 BJ73 in order to replace the suction pipe assy and the filler neck. Both appear to be very rusty.
I also wanted to inspect the tank and floor panel above it.
The filler neck came out quite good.
Tank braces came off.
The tank however wouldn't drop.
I even tried a prey bar. I could bend it, dent it (did both) or even press a hole in it. It's not moving.
DID I MISS SOMETHING?
I read somwhere here that it might be glued in place with kind of mastik.
I hammered a wooden wedge between tank and floor panel on all 4 corners.
Well, it actually was kind of glued in: There is a rubber material on top of the tank to prevent mechanical wear.
30 years of Spanish heat had made the stuff kind of melt and glue to the floor crossmembers. At some edges it hang free and one could see its original thicknes. Where it had been under pressure, one could see how it had creeped into the rough surface of the undercoat. That now partially came off with it.
The tank is in perfect condition and so is the floor. Just a bit of rust on the tank around the nipples and on some of the spot welds. But the floor tremendously lacks protection, which I expected.
And I can setup an original playa from all the Spanish dust
Now, the fun part will be to get the Phillips screws of the suction assy undone. Gave them a bath of penetrating oil.
Thank you to all the guys I have bothered with this.
The story is not yet over... All those recent stories of air in fuel lines scare me off a bit
Put in the new seats from a newer HZJ75. They seem to fit just about right. Some came with seat belts, but I think some stuff might be missing, so I’ll have to look into that online later.
If anyone needs some old beat up seats let me know, I’d rather not just trash the old ones.
If anyone needs some old beat up seats let me know, I’d rather not just trash the old ones.
JDM Journeys
Moderator
Wiring up the 24 volt ARB single today. But it got me wondering: WHAT did I do before my "fender tray"? 
I don't know how you later 76, 78 and 79 folks cope. Where in the world do you lay stuff?
#1stworldproblems #3rdworldtruck
I don't know how you later 76, 78 and 79 folks cope. Where in the world do you lay stuff?
#1stworldproblems #3rdworldtruck
I’ll give you a hint ….. “I know it’s down there somewhere”.Wiring up the 24 volt ARB single today. But it got me wondering: WHAT did I do before my "fender tray"?
View attachment 2916506
I don't know how you later 76, 78 and 79 folks cope. Where in the world do you lay stuff?
#1stworldproblems #3rdworldtruck
