We're in! '99 LX - new to us! (1 Viewer)

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The above image isn't that great - the posi-locks kind of move things around.

I tapped the green wire w/ white stripe for cold-side brake signal:

brake-wire-connection-for-brake-controller-1-jpg.1495710


Image from here: 2000 LX 4 pin trailer plug, converting to 7 pin

The other posi-lock you see is so I could get the reverse signal to my stereo for the camera on the back.
I tapped the red wire w/ black stripe:

backup-wire-behind-driver-side-foot-panel-jpg.1393682


Image from here: Install Backup Camera ...

Thanks to @cwmoser for both!
 
That looks like a combo 4 + 7 pin part for the towing electrics. Hopkins or another brand?

I cannot discern a brand. I wonder is Hopkins, or other, is making a private label for e-trailer?

I kind of wish they had put the pin diagram on the flap like some do...
 
7-pin connector wired and installed:

img_8239-jpg.2385262


I hope my trailer wiring is long enough to reach!

I thought I would post some "lessons learned" from the install of this kit:

https://www.etrailer.com/p-ETBC7/Brake-Controller-7--4-Way-Installation-Kit---10-Gauge.html

First, take the 10 gauge wire and lay it out flat in the sun so it is nice and pliable.

Next, drop the spare tire.

Then I would pressure wash the underside of the truck. No one likes dirt falling in their eyes!

Now figure out where the mid-point of the wire run is and crawl under the driver side your 100. Driver side b/c battery is there, brake controller will get wired there, and I put my 7-pin on DS to be away from exhaust side.

Start at the front of the fuel tank. On my LX, there was a hole at the seam in the tank that was perfect for a zip tie. Working my way back you can route the wire between the tank and the mounting strap, then over the cross-member. Keep working your way back and looking for places to route the wire that will keep it out oh harms way. At the back, I put an extra loop of wire in case I ever wanted to move the connector. I zip tied the loop to the fuel inlet pipe, up above the spare.

Now go back to the front of the fuel tank and plan your route forward, and then up to the battery. You want to stay away from the exhaust and the cat. There were some brackets that you can tuck the line over that will keep it in place with the help of some zip ties. Once it comes time to route the cable up. run on the inner fender, stay clear of the brake lines. Run the wire bundle out the top where the inner fender and firewall meet.

Now it is time to remove the outer wrap. This is the best place to do so because the black wire will run up to the battery (via circuit breaker), but the white wire needs to go into the passenger compartment via the rubber boot in the firewall.

I wish I had started at the midpoint of my LX. Instead I started at the back and ran forward. But I kept finding better places to run the wire, so I would have to pull the wire back and start all over. 2 x 10-gauge wires in a bundle are kind of bulky and cumbersome to keep moving around, so this took some time!

Hope this can help someone...
 
Go tow something young man!

I did!

We went and picked up our new (to-us) camper.
I went to adjust the brake pressure on the P3 and was pretty un-impressed with the braking force from the camper. We were set for max and rolled home. Getting off the interstate I thought the brakes again were weak sauce. Getting closer to home I realized my P3 screen was dark! What?!? At home I saw voltage at the connector. Hmm...

Long story short, I used the solder-seal waterproof shrink connectors to make my connections to the brake controller. The + connection slipped while cooling so that the two wires I was joining were no longer intertwined, they were next to each other. I fixed that and now the P3 is happy, and I have brake force from the camper!

IMG_8266.JPG
 
Looks great! You're not using a WD hitch are you but you use airbags? Your rear isn't sagging one bit.
 
Nice data. I try for 5 PSI when not towing as well. Your setup looks nicely dialed in, fantastic!
 
I just bought the Dewalt 12V portable air station. It is quite accurate. But beware, you need to buy the 110V adapter separately and it's $40 on Amazon if you want to use an outlet. It'll also suck a full 10A at 12V, so if the engine isn't running on my rig, it'll shut down when powered from a 12V socket. Finally, it will run on their 20V cordless batteries, a nice touch for cord cutters.

Dewalt toy
 
The LX has thrown code P0715 a few times - Input/Turbine Speed Sensor "A" Circuit

I am going to grab a new Sensor, Transmission p/n 89413-60021

Also, the CDL light does not light up on the instrument cluster. I think that switch get sticky. Don't know if they can be cleaned. Not finding the p/n...
 
The LX has thrown code P0715 a few times - Input/Turbine Speed Sensor "A" Circuit

I am going to grab a new Sensor, Transmission p/n 89413-60021

Also, the CDL light does not light up on the instrument cluster. I think that switch get sticky. Don't know if they can be cleaned. Not finding the p/n...

Found p/n here: (thanks @Ayune )


Going to try this: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHNS6421
 
Goals for today:
  • oil and filter
  • rotate tires
  • AHC system flush
  • CDL light switch replace
  • Replace Sensor, Transmission p/n 89413-60021

I got the first 3 done, still haven't done the last 2.
The CDL light started working at BHCC '21!
 
Such a pain in the ass pulling that intake off.
 

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