We're in! '99 LX - new to us! (3 Viewers)

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Did the king coils fix your rear pressures? And if you wanna sell those spacers, lemme know.

So before my pressure was at 6.9, now down to 5.8. A drop of ~1 Mpa after about 9 months and about 10k miles. I have heard of others getting a drop of ~3 Mpa, but I did not see that. I wish I had gotten readings right away after the King spring install.
 
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I thought I would change out the AHC fluid. I last did it about 1 year ago, but it keeps working and I would rather maintain the AHC than replace my suspension at this point. ~$40 in fluid vs. $$$...
First, I took a look at suspension pressures. 7.6 F/6.4 R.

So I did the AHC Fluid Change: AHC Fluid Change How To -- Need Input

While I was under the truck, I gave each torsion bar 2 full CW turns, and then checked pressures again - now reading 6.5 F/5.5 R. I did not have the rear loaded with fridge and gear, etc.

Graduation test was 11-12 lines on the reservoir, so I am happy!

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Next, getting ready to replace the Nakamichi with a Pioneer head unit. The Nakamichi was pimp w/ built-in 6 CD changer and tape deck, but any bump in the road disrupted CD palyback - it is time.

I took a look inside the dash and found the Nakamichi had already been refurbished once before! Back in 2012...

in this thread I am working on finding a factory connector to upgrade, so I do not have to cut the connector off the LX body harness: How To Find A Companion Connector - Electrical/Stereo/Nakamichi

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I think our alternator died, possibly last Wednesday, but just became apparent yesterday when electrical was acting weird. I had kind of a growling noise that was RPM dependent. It sounded like PS pump, which I thought was odd b/c I replaced all the fluid in the system back in October with the new rack, and then some fluid later when the return hose was rubbing on the belt.

New-ish AGM battery, taking a long time to charge, I hope we have not run her down too far.

I started the truck when the battery had ~11.5 volts so I could check alternator output before ordering a new one. After starting, still showed ~11.5v at the battery, so I think alternator went out. Especially w/ the whine I was hearing.
 
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I think our alternator died, possibly last Wednesday, but just became apparent yesterday when electrical was acting weird. I had kind of a growling noise that was RPM dependent. It sounded like PS pump, which I thought was odd b/c I replaced all the fluid in the system back in October with the new rack, and then some fluid later when the return hose was rubbing on the belt.

New-ish AGM battery, taking a long time to charge, I hope we have not run her down too far.

I started the truck when the battery had ~11.5 volts so I could check alternator output before ordering a new one. After starting, still showed ~11.5v at the battery, so I think alternator went out. Especially w/ the whine I was hearing.

Certainly sounds like the alternator failing. A quick check (when whine is present) is to first turn your steering wheel back and forth (while parked) to eliminate the possibility the whine is coming from power steering pump.

IF it isn't...then likely it is from your alternator, so another quick check (again parked) is to put a load on the alternator. You can turn on your headlights and switch back and forth between high and low beams. You will hear an increase in the whine when on high beams if the alternator has a problem.

Of course, the best and most conclusive way to check it...is with a multimeter. Check the voltage output right at the alternator.
 
Certainly sounds like the alternator failing. A quick check (when whine is present) is to first turn your steering wheel back and forth (while parked) to eliminate the possibility the whine is coming from power steering pump.

IF it isn't...then likely it is from your alternator, so another quick check (again parked) is to put a load on the alternator. You can turn on your headlights and switch back and forth between high and low beams. You will hear an increase in the whine when on high beams if the alternator has a problem.

Of course, the best and most conclusive way to check it...is with a multimeter. Check the voltage output right at the alternator.

I charged up my battery and checked voltage w/ engine off: 12.6v, and then with engine on: 12.3v. Good enough for me to get after the alternator.

I know you got yours out from the bottom, but mine was not playing that way. I tried through the side and ultimately pulled it out the top.
 
PS: she is much quieter now...

Thanks for this thread: Alternator Replacement


Good deal. You should be set now for a good, long while.

Three things on a 100 series I don't want to have to worry about.

1. Alternator.
2. Starter.
3. A/C compressor.

None of them are much fun to get to. The first two can leave you stranded...the last one can make things pretty miserable.
 
Good deal. You should be set now for a good, long while.

Three things on a 100 series I don't want to have to worry about.

1. Alternator.
2. Starter.
3. A/C compressor.

None of them are much fun to get to. The first two can leave you stranded...the last one can make things pretty miserable.

I would add steering rack to the list of things that are not fun to get to...
 
I would add steering rack to the list of things that are not fun to get to...

Haven't had to do that one yet, but I'm sure you're right.
 
210K now.

Bueno!

I did my rack last October. We have 179k on ours now. After the Black Hills Cruiser Classic of '17 my rack was leaking up the sector shaft and the DS inner end had a lot of play so I thought I would git r dun...
 
Changed out the plugs w/ some new Denso SK20R11. She seemed to appreciate the new plugs, ran a little smoother!

One of the coil packs looked discolored:

Does anyone know the p/n for the clamps that hold the wire harness above the coil packs on the driver side? Mine are toast!
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