Build Well looky here!
- Thread starter thecrazygreek
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Hi All:
Lucky bastard!
Looks like you could throw another 2F into that rig and get it back on the road quick! Then you'd have a 'Cruiser to drive while doing the resto on your other FJ40.
Congrats and enjoy!
Alan
Lucky bastard!
Looks like you could throw another 2F into that rig and get it back on the road quick! Then you'd have a 'Cruiser to drive while doing the resto on your other FJ40.
Congrats and enjoy!
Alan
With the bezel installed correctly, the hood safety latch is hidden. Otherwise it sticks out like a sore thumb.
73fj
Tho at sumbitch in ayer!
That winch is worth more than what you paid for the truck! Does it work?
Nice!!! Are you gonna put in a crate motor? SBC
PS. Where you at in the rainy state?
PS. Where you at in the rainy state?
- Thread starter
- #28
Yes it does, but needs a $20.00 part...
Putting a 2f back in with PS.
I'm in Salem OR... 1.5 hour drive up to Vancouver where it was parked...
I forgot to take a pic of that fan, but it was a factory install. It mounts to the drivers side fender up front. It mounts with built in nuts on the fender. And looks like it was fixed and aimed at the manifold area. I'll get a pic tomorrow...
$700...thats a bargin!
yes that is in EVERY later FJ40......its the carb cooling fan, NOT a option......they all(sense the year Toyota added it, think 75) had it. Fj60, FJ62, FJ80......all got em. Not part of an desert package.....that didn't exist
- Thread starter
- #31
Ah.. I see said the blind man.. All I have is experience with is my 69, and what the owner told me... Thx for the info.
The dealer installed lift kit has some really think springs. Me thinks this will lead to a very stiff ride. I may be pulling a spring to soften her up a bit... We already have a patch panel going in under the drivers door, and the passenger side has been brazed up.. And looks good. No Bondo for this rig...
I have decided this will be a body on restoration. But I will lift it up off the frame a bit to clean and POR the frame as well and clean and undercoat the tub, as well as putting in new body mounts etc...
Aiming for 120 days till finished...
More pics up tonight...
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #32
Took the front clip off today... Sending it all to the sandblasters...
Going to be doing a thourough clean up on the front end begining with wire wheelin and POR 15. Pulling and replacing all the soft lines, cleaning up the rest. Replacing "stuff" as needed.
The entire front clip sandblasted including the hood (where nessesary), fenders, bib, grill, bezel, radiator shroud stuff, was only $80.00. Good deal in my book.
The white stuff in the pics is phosphric acid to kill the rust... (works Great) same as Metal ready, and only 5 bucks a quart.
Going to be doing a thourough clean up on the front end begining with wire wheelin and POR 15. Pulling and replacing all the soft lines, cleaning up the rest. Replacing "stuff" as needed.
The entire front clip sandblasted including the hood (where nessesary), fenders, bib, grill, bezel, radiator shroud stuff, was only $80.00. Good deal in my book.
The white stuff in the pics is phosphric acid to kill the rust... (works Great) same as Metal ready, and only 5 bucks a quart.
- Thread starter
- #33
Update
An update on this one...
Decided to go body off on the resto. We pulled the body and blasted the frame.
Did the POR15 treatment to the frame and diffs. Cleaned up the underbody and shot POR on it as well. (looks sweet) Then placed body back on frame with new Energy Susp body mount kit.
Got the parts back from the blasters and got them into some NASON Epoxy Primer. (the two part 50% primer 50% catylist) NICE stuff btw.
You can see my 6940's rear end through the plastic in one of these shots. The pics have blurry spots... must be something on the lense.?
My goal is to be driving her next month...
Picking up a bellhousing and misc parts from RatPatrol on Friday. Installing them along with tranny Fri night or Sat.
An update on this one...
Decided to go body off on the resto. We pulled the body and blasted the frame.
Did the POR15 treatment to the frame and diffs. Cleaned up the underbody and shot POR on it as well. (looks sweet) Then placed body back on frame with new Energy Susp body mount kit.
Got the parts back from the blasters and got them into some NASON Epoxy Primer. (the two part 50% primer 50% catylist) NICE stuff btw.
You can see my 6940's rear end through the plastic in one of these shots. The pics have blurry spots... must be something on the lense.?
My goal is to be driving her next month...
Picking up a bellhousing and misc parts from RatPatrol on Friday. Installing them along with tranny Fri night or Sat.
Looks good so far. You should let locals know where to get blasting at that price, seems like a steal.
I hope you seperated the fender apron from the fender, because I have seen on several rigs (including my own), where rust has started from between the sheet metal.
Is that Nason primer expensive? I've gotten mixed reviews from body shops on whether or not epoxy primer is worth the extra coin. I am just using Transtar 2K Kwikprime 2-part primer. It's a nice, sandable product, but I'm not sure how well it seals in comparison to an epoxy. Seems like all the TV shows (Muscle Car, Overhaulin', etc) use Epoxy.
Good luck and keep the pics coming. You have set a lofty goal to be driving her next month....hope you are retired or out of school for the summer or something!
I hope you seperated the fender apron from the fender, because I have seen on several rigs (including my own), where rust has started from between the sheet metal.
Is that Nason primer expensive? I've gotten mixed reviews from body shops on whether or not epoxy primer is worth the extra coin. I am just using Transtar 2K Kwikprime 2-part primer. It's a nice, sandable product, but I'm not sure how well it seals in comparison to an epoxy. Seems like all the TV shows (Muscle Car, Overhaulin', etc) use Epoxy.
Good luck and keep the pics coming. You have set a lofty goal to be driving her next month....hope you are retired or out of school for the summer or something!
- Thread starter
- #35
I get all my blasting done at AKIEs sandblasting in Salem OR. Very fair prices.
The NASON primer is $43.00 for a quart, which includes a quart of hardner as well so you get a half gallon of liquid. Was able to shoot my hood, fenders, gas tank cover, fuel hose cover, bib, bezel, grill, lower radiator guard, radiator shroud, and a couple misc pieces. From what I've learned from these boards, bare metal is best shot with Epoxy.
As far as time goes, my father is a retired bodyshop man with over 40 years exp. So he's working on it pretty much full time. Which helps me ALOT...
The NASON primer is $43.00 for a quart, which includes a quart of hardner as well so you get a half gallon of liquid. Was able to shoot my hood, fenders, gas tank cover, fuel hose cover, bib, bezel, grill, lower radiator guard, radiator shroud, and a couple misc pieces. From what I've learned from these boards, bare metal is best shot with Epoxy.
As far as time goes, my father is a retired bodyshop man with over 40 years exp. So he's working on it pretty much full time. Which helps me ALOT...
and you still ding us for wrong orientation ?
The "Bezel Police" do have a point, when the head light bezel is installed correctly, the "Toyota" emblem in the grill is centered in the opening.
The bezel looks great . Nice score I check craigslist everyday and live right outside Vancouver I musta just missed.
. Nice score I check craigslist everyday and live right outside Vancouver I musta just missed.
- Thread starter
- #39
Pic of sticker under hood on pass side
Hey AATLAS1X. Heres the pic I took this am for ya. Theres something up with my camera as I cant get a nice clear photo for some reason. This sticker is located under the hood pass side.
Hey AATLAS1X. Heres the pic I took this am for ya. Theres something up with my camera as I cant get a nice clear photo for some reason. This sticker is located under the hood pass side.
