- Thread starter
- #61
My first thought is to bang on it with a hammer and hope what is stick will unstick.
If that does not work what’s the best plan of attack? I don’t dissect carburetors....
Build Weenie 3 - Tilda Bogue Service Station
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
My first thought is to bang on it with a hammer and hope what is stick will unstick.
If that does not work what’s the best plan of attack? I don’t dissect carburetors....
I was going to say, check the crankcase for fuel vapor. I've heard of a pop in there to loose an oil pan. Likewise for exhaust spark, and a potential hole in the muffler.
I'd take that carb apart, but that is just me.
I'd take that carb apart, but that is just me.
- Thread starter
- #63
Yes. I’ll pull the plugs and spin the motor and clear all that gas before I do anything else.
Being a new carburetor, surely it’s just a stuck float.
What happens sometimes is that during transport, the boxes are flipped upside down and put in that position for a period of time. As a result, the float or needle valve can get stuck. A light tap with a rubber hammer may or may not do the trick.
Even though a carb can feel like an intimidating black box, the top part of the carb (the air horn) is quite simple to open up. Basically, remove the screws you can see from the top, and the entire air horn can be lifted up. That will give you access to the float and needle valve. It takes literally 10 minutes. The accelerator pump (#3) is a frequently serviced item on old carbs, so every Cruiser owner should try opening up the air horn at least once. Do this on a table with a piece of cloth underneath.
Even though a carb can feel like an intimidating black box, the top part of the carb (the air horn) is quite simple to open up. Basically, remove the screws you can see from the top, and the entire air horn can be lifted up. That will give you access to the float and needle valve. It takes literally 10 minutes. The accelerator pump (#3) is a frequently serviced item on old carbs, so every Cruiser owner should try opening up the air horn at least once. Do this on a table with a piece of cloth underneath.
There’s about 8 small screws holding the top part of the carb on, and maybe a small clip holding a rod or something. Carefully take them out and pull the top of the carb off. Be careful not to tear the gasket. The float will come with the top of the carb and you can make sure it’s not stuck.
- Thread starter
- #66
Thank you sir. I’m hoping it’s a hammer tap but with my luck I’ll be learning about an air horn.
Either way, thanks for chiming and thanks for the great products. I bolted a lot of City Racer on this old junk today.
I'm not a carb rebuilder by any means. The reason I know my way around the air horn is because in California you can't run a desmogged carb. You either work with what you've got or you don't get to drive!
Very easy to pull the air horn, clearly from the video the needle and seat are not closing allowing the bowl to fill and overflow out of the float bowl vents. Check to make sure the float raises and lowers and when raised should close the needle in the seat. I usually blow on the fuel inlet while raising and lowering the float to check that it seats and unseats. You did dump a lot of fuel down it’s throat! Surprised it didn’t cough and try to run? Sure you have spark?
- Thread starter
- #71
It coughed on the first video on the initial dump. Was too far flooded after that. I did check the spark since I was not 100% sure I picked the correct wire for the DUI
I'm seeing a lack of oil coming from the rocker assembly. If I crank (on my slightly sloped driveway) with no valve cover it drains to the top back of the cylinder head and makes a big mess.
- Thread starter
- #73
That’s why I have the cover off still. Once it gets going I’ll be able to make sure the oil pump is doing it’s thing. I’ve been doing a lot of motors lately and it seems like all of them oil differently. Some it’s obvious, some it’s a gentle flow. I’ve literally not been able to lay eyes on it trying to film and fight fires
lol...fond memories of helping my dad work on POS old snowmobiles back in the day. More ether, this POS will start....yeah it started, A FIRE BALL 
I'm not sure if my dad ever figured out why we went through so much Ether and WD40 after that 
but GI Joe sure knew why.
I'm not sure if my dad ever figured out why we went through so much Ether and WD40 after that but GI Joe sure knew why.
It would take 10 minutes to seize the valve train in an f engine. I have had f engines take a few minutes to get oil up top, especially cold oil. If your worried, dump a quart all over the rockers.
You can also tell what's going on with your float if the sight glass is completely full. Should only be at the halfway mark if the float is set correctly (or isn't stuck). Definitely seems to be what's going on there.
- Thread starter
- #77
I dumped all the oil in with the valve cover off.It’s wet and easy and ready
- Thread starter
- #79
I had to build a haunted house for 85 kids so I’ve been smoked.
But I did sneak in the shop today and look at Weenie 3 and realized I left the ignition on so the battery is dead and I hope I did not kill the ignition.
Maybe tomorrow after work.....
- Thread starter
- #80
Snuck home after work and spent a couple hours on Weenie 3.
First I pulled the plugs and spun the ignitiom to clear the fuel.
I took a hammer and tapped on the edge of the carburetor and hoped for the neet
I reprimed the fuel system and boom. 14 years after it was last registered and supposedly parked it came back the life.
First I pulled the plugs and spun the ignitiom to clear the fuel.
I took a hammer and tapped on the edge of the carburetor and hoped for the neet
I reprimed the fuel system and boom. 14 years after it was last registered and supposedly parked it came back the life.