Build US Spec. February 1990 Poverty 80 2uz/h151f swap

[Tank5]

With the motor tentatively in place I have been looking at the figment of various components to make sure the position is workable. I have an inch between the hood and highest point on the intake and 2 plus inches between the fan and radiator.

The shifters will come through the transmission hump at a good spot. I will have to make some modifications for the tcase shifter. Pictures when I get to that.

I measured the driveshafts and found I had one front and a rear in the shed that bolt right in. I may have new ones made anyway.

The most pleasant thing I found was related to the clutch master and pedal bracket. This 80 has the factory holes already drilled for the clutch, they are just plugged. I removed the plugs and found the master cylinder, pedal assembly will all bolt in from a 100 series. I will have to add one mounting tab or support under the dash for the front of the pedal assembly bracket. I also found in my hoard of parts I had the correct smaller oem 80series brake pedal and assembly from a manual 80 I parted out some time ago, so the pedals will look stock for a manual 80.

There are a number of things on this swap that so far are working out really well. There is still plenty I have to modify or rework but it is nice to have something’s things go together almost seamlessly.

Hopefully the harness shows up soon!

 

[alia176]

I believe there is a bolt that goes through the top which will penetrate the area underneath the wiper arms. At least the 80 series clutch has that bolt up top not sure about the 100 series.

 

[Tank5]

I believe there is a bolt that goes through the top which will penetrate the area underneath the wiper arms. At least the 80 series clutch has that bolt up top not sure about the 100 series.

I should have taken a picture of the bracket but it has a hole on the end of it under the dash and the 80 (my 80) does not have a corresponding mounting point. It will be easy to make.

 

[alia176]

This post has a pic of the hole under the windshield cowling. @gnarlynick2072 has done an excellent job with the H151F writeup, one that I'll be following for my conversion.

80 Series H151F 5 Speed Manual Transmission Swap - Includes RHD HDJ81 & LHD FZJ80

@Bergretter I "finished" my swap this morning! I won't ruin Nick's thread with some spoilers. But I will say my 80 is a completely different beast now. And yeah I get that smile too!

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Tank5]

The harness won’t arrive for another 3 weeks, so I started sorting out the shifter pass through and placement. I the shifters did not line up perfect but they were easy to make work. The transmission shifter came through the factory tcase shifter hole just a little high. The transfer case shifter had to be modified. After a little heat and bending the stock lever I got the tcase shifter right where it needed to be.

I had to expand the stock transmission tunnel hole for the shifter relocation. I tried to only remove what I had to. I left all the mounting holes for the stock automatic shifter plate. All of the brackets and auto shifter parts on the shifter plate were removed to use it as my cover to close the pass through. After multiple fittings it seems like it will work well.

Since I reused the shifter plate I was able to retain the console mounting points. Supper helpful since I was able to get the original manual console from a LHD 91 80. The orientation of the shifter locations work out perfect. The console is a little ruff but I am sure I can clean it.

Anyone know if there is an aftermarket replacement leather shifter boot for this console available somewhere? If not I am sure I can have one made using what I have as a template.

 

[Tank5]

I had this skid plate that came under my 45 when I got it. It is not oem, I think it could be an old Downey BTB product. I didn’t take pictures until after cutting and drilling but here is what it looked like after the first cut

I cut up the original crossmember and fit it inside the skid. After a lot of modifications and fitting I think it is going work. I need to add at least two more mounting points on each side and I should done besides cleanup and paint.

It fits well. I can drain the tcase through the oval hole and the ends of the plate leave enough room to remove the drive shafts without having to drop the plate.

I left those two big round holes to aid drainage of any water and make it a little easier to retrieve anything that gets dropped on the plate. I incorporated two drain holes at the rear corners. Hopefully that will be enough to prevent the skid from retaining debris.

The skid plate hangs down an inch or less more than the original cross member. This 80 is not a crawler and shouldn’t be abused in a way that the skid will likely see any real action, so I am not worried about the inch of clearance loss. It will be good piece of mind to know the tcase is better protected in the event I do dump things, which is likely.

 

[Tank5]

The skid plate is done besides paint. I added some extensions to the rear mounting flange to be able to use stock bolt holes in the frame. It shows some use but I am happy with it considering it only cost me time since I already had it laying around.

I removed the old engine mounts and welded in the new mounts. The brake lines were made to go around the old engine mounts with them gone they hung out pretty far from the frame. The new motor mount also occupies the spot where the soft line mounts from the axle. That had to be moved as well. I had a set of brake lines from a 97 and 93 Land Cruiser that were in better shape. I picked the best of what I had and replaced the lines from lspv to the Master cylinder.

I have been playing with the fuel lines and have plan that is slowly coming together.

It is is hard to see progress in this dirty engine bay and I am almost embarrassed to show it but it what it is. When the weather improves it will get a good cleaning.

 

[Tank5]

Today was the nicest day I have had at the house since I started the swap. I took advantage of it and moved the truck outside to power wash the engine bay. Much better.

 

[Norcal510]

Looking good!

 

[Tank5]

I picked up a set of 80 series sliders from the classifieds that arrived today. They came off of a diesel 80 and didn’t have the wonky mount that US models need to clear the cats, which was perfect for me as my exhaust will run inside the frame. I found my 80 does not have the capture nuts for the four holes needed for the front passenger mount. I installed four stainless steel nutserts to solve that issue. Hopefully they hold up.

I will have to make one slight modification to the skid plate on the driver side. Other than that they bolted up and fit perfect. They even allowed me to retain the front mud mud flaps.

I understand the company that made them is no longer in business which is too bad, they seem be made very well. Pictures in the garage don’t show so well but here they are.

 

[Broski]

I picked up a set of 80 series sliders from the classifieds that arrived today. They came off of a diesel 80 and didn’t have the wonky mount that US models need to clear the cats, which was perfect for me as my exhaust will run inside the frame. I found my 80 does not have the capture nuts for the four holes needed for the front passenger mount. I installed four stainless steel nutserts to solve that issue. Hopefully they hold up.

I will have to make one slight modification to the skid plate on the driver side. Other than that they bolted up and fit perfect. They even allowed me to retain the front mud mud flaps.

I understand the company that made them is no longer in business which is too bad, they seem be made very well. Pictures in the garage don’t show so well but here they are.



View attachment 3269178

View attachment 3269179

That a bummer about Cruisin off road going out of business, I run the skid plates engine & transfer case. They have held up really well and are full coverage skids.
I like that they incorporated the 2x4 rectangular tube into there sliders This provides a long wide flat surface to slide on and works much better then the traditional all round tube sliders that are much easier to get hung up on
Nice score !!

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

I bought the guys bumper for my 80. Small world. DFW guy right?

 

[Tank5]

I bought the guys bumper for my 80. Small world. DFW guy right?

Correct, I was surprised someone else did not grab the sliders before me. Suppose it was because they would had needed to be modified to accommodate the cats for stock 80s. Worked out great for me.

 

[Tank5]

The original steering box was leaking, so I swapped it out for a newer low mileage box I had.

While I had it apart I wire wheeled the joint and steering shaft and added some lipstick.

I think I found where the fuel filter will go. Seems like it will be out of the way. It will also allow me to use a stock 80 fuel filter.

 

[Tank5]

Finished running the fuel lines. The original lines ran along the frame and conflicted with the new body mounts. I choose to move them off the frame and bolt them to the bottom of the cab using the studs left behind after deleting the rear heater. This will get the lines farther from the exhaust that will run inside the frame.

I used a newer 80 series evap canister and mount to finish the fuel management side of things. I had to deconstruct parts of the mount and put it back together to aline three of the legs to bolt to existing holes in the fender wells.

After it was all done I was looking it over and realized I probably need to change this mount.

The hard lines are attached to the cab but this mount is attached to the frame and then the lines go back to the fender well. I am worried the flex between the frame and body could cause some issues being connected by the hardline as I have done. I am thinking I will remove the mount and add a nutsert to the firewall to secure it with another mount. This way the hardline would be mounted to the body the entire length.

Edit: went back and removed the mount in question. Added a nutsert and used another oem mount to keep the lines attached to the body. Much better and cleaner.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Second nutsert on firewall.

 

[Tank5]

Anyone know what these sensors are for on the h151f?

I am trying to determine if I need them or if they can be removed and plugged.

 

[DivByZero]

The one on the transfer case detects when the front prop shaft is activated, to illuminate the "4WD" light on the cluster. The one on the gearbox detects when the reverse gear is selected, to enable the reverse warning lights.

 

[Tank5]

The one on the transfer case detects when the front prop shaft is activated, to illuminate the "4WD" light on the cluster. The one on the gearbox detects when the reverse gear is selected, to enable the reverse warning lights.

Both of the switches I am pointing to are on the transmission. I have a manual that covers the transfercase, so I was able to sort that out. Unfortunately I don’t have a manual for the H151 and have not be able to identify the two switches pictured through my searching.

Do you know which switch is which on on the transmission? There are two.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Both of the switches I am pointing to are on the transmission. I have a manual that covers the transfercase, so I was able to sort that out. Unfortunately I don’t have a manual for the H151 and have not be able to identify the two switches pictured through my searching.

Do you know which switch is which on on the transmission? There are two.

The one on the side, is a back-up light sensor. My H151 does not have the top sensor you pictured. It has the casting, but no sensor. I have seen some H151's sold with this sensor and others without. I believe it's a 1st gear over speed sensor.